• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Dana 44 permanant seal fix, Speedi sleeve install writeup, also works on 8.25 and 35

xjnuttier

NAXJA Forum User
Location
lancaster, pa
Hey guys, I just did this yesterday, and when I was researching the speedi sleeve, I found very little information on the the actual part, let a lone a good write up for installation. I got a lot of great ideas from several members here, thanks guys in advance.
Step 1: LOL jack Jeep up, place axle on jackstand, remove wheel, and brake drum.
axle seal leaxk, pic 1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Step 2, remove wheel and drum on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Pic 3 of oil leaking on inside of drum on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 4 actual seal that is leaking on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
as you can see from the pics above mine was definately due again for the seal.
step 2: remove rear drum brakes, and put aside for access to the reatining plate. once you have removed the brakes, now take your drum, install it backwards loosely, and use it now as a homemade slide hammer, and remove rear axle from housing.

pic 5 remove retainer plate nuts. on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 6, install drum backwards, and use as slide hammer to remove axle on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 7 homemade slide hammer on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 8 axle free from axle on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Step 3: once the axle is out of the Jeep, now the fun begins, you need to remove the old bearing retainer, bearings, and of course the seal. I used a regular old 4.5" angle grinder, and be very careful when doing this not to run the wheel into the axle shaft. When you cut, do the retainer first. When you get about 3/4 of the way thru the reatiner it will make a POPPING noise, and you will see a crack appear, ready to remove that piece. Then you need to focus on doing the bearing next. I cut the outer race of the bearing, and pull it apart once thru it, with a pair of pliers, and get that part out of the way. I SUGGEST WEARING GLOVES, these parts are razor sharp, and will cut you good, when you are least expecting it. OH, yes and dont forget to remove the race out of the axle housing.

pic 9, dont for get to remove bearing race on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 10 use cutting whel, and be careful not to cut into shaft, but break retainer and bearing apart on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 11, tool to cut bearing and retainer on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 12 bearing and retainer both cut ready to remove from axle on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 14, your wasted bearings, retainer and seal on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

STEP4: Now you have everything removed from the shaft, inspect the shaft and look for obvious signs of wear, and tear. the 1st pic you can actually se the groove from the seal after 22years of great service, but parts wear. in the next few photos it shows the shaft cleaned up and ready for the speedi sleeve. I sed a combination of thing sto clean the shaft up, I started with a mild wire wheel, to get the heavier deposits of gunk and rust off the shaft. I then took a piece of 120 grit emory clothe, and I hand sanded around the bearing, and seal area, to give a nice new clean llok to the axle.

pic 13 axle with everything removed on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 15 scoring of seal surface on dana 44 axle on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 16, cleaned shaft and removed scoring and rust, ready for speedi sleeve on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

STEP5: now it is time to install the speedi sleeve. I got a lot of good pointers from the guys here and NAXJA, thanks again to those great guys. What I ended up doing was not driving the Jeep overnight, and with it being fall, the axle was a cool 37 degrees, thanks mother nature. I did however put the speedi sleeve in the old oven for 15 minutes at 350 degrees. NOW, when you get to this point you need to move and move fast, to keep the axle as warm as possible. the reason for the oven trick, it actually expands the sleeve, and makes for an easier slide onto the shaft. I followed the instructions, and I added no hardening sealant from permatex, and I put that right on the axle surface, and I put a small amount of oil on the leading edge of the sleeve. You can see from the pics, the install tool that was supplied, was made for a much shorter installation, and apparently not an axle. I came up with a home grown solution, LOL you guys are gonna love this one... I got my shop vac extension tubes, which were exactly the diameter I need to push the sleeve on, and they took quite a beating, and no breaks. I honestly was amazed at how strong that tube was. You need to slide the sleeve all the waydown, but not too far.

pic 17, driver supplied with sleeve, too short on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 18 improvised driver, shop vac extension tube on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 19, heat up sleeve in stove at 350 for 15 mins to allow expansion on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 20 parts used, from napa and autozone on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 21 speedi sleeve on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
pic 22 speedi sleeve installed on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

STEP6: This is where things go back to normal. MAKE sure you install your backing plate, once you clean it up, and make it free of excess debris. I then add a small amount of grease on the seal, so It dont burn up until it gets lubricated from the axle. I don't have a shop press, so I went to the local shop,and they guy was awesome, Gene's garagein Cochranville, PA. What a great group of guys. He pressed the bearing back on the shaft at no charge, man that was awesome. He did my last one for me, and maybe he felt bad, because here I am again 3 months later with the same shaft in my hand. Now you are ready to reassemble the shaft back in the Jeep.

pic 23 seal, bearings, and retainer pressed onto clean axle on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Step 7: I add a lil RTV sealant to the outside of the seal, just a lil added protection from leaks. Then you can slide the shaft back in the axle, get it rengaged into the diff, and slide the retainer plate back over the assembly. I finger tighten the nuts to the retainer plate. I turn each nut 1/2 half turn going clockwise til they bottom out, that way I assure a good square engagment of the seal. Now you can reassemble the rear brakes, put drum back on, and get back to driving leak free.

pic 24, all put back together and not leaking on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Here is a pic of the sleeve installed and all buttoned up, and I know some ppl are going to say, Why didn't youremove the flange of the sleeve. I followed the instructions, they recommended leaving the flange on, unless it was necessary for clearence of the seal, which you can see it clears easily.

Good luck and sorry it is not click free.
2thumbup.gif
 
Nice work. A very good option if you were keeping old shafts.

However, you can get replacement shafts at yards for cheap, or an upgrade to alloy axles is worth it for some.
 
Nice work. A very good option if you were keeping old shafts.

However, you can get replacement shafts at yards for cheap, or an upgrade to alloy axles is worth it for some.


Very true, but the fact is if you pull a 44 shaft, from the JY, if you can find one, 1st off. You will probably be installing what you already have, and yes new shafts are an otion, but for 43 bucks for the sleeve, this is by far cheaper. Thanks for the input..
 
Thats great guys, I replaced that seal 3 months ago, Like I said, and thenit leaked again. You can try the JY stuff, BUT I know this fix is going to work, I basically created a new sealing surface. That is one thing NO JY shaft will ever do. But hey that is interesting from what you said. They dana 44 shafts out of the ZJ will fit the XJ diff?
 
Now that I think of it, I think the housing (bent, out of Jeep) I pulled shafts from must have been from a TJ. I think the D44a has c-slip shafts if I remember right. The yard guy had to of been wrong.

I'll go check one of the complete ZJs this weekend.
 
Now that I think of it, I think the housing (bent, out of Jeep) I pulled shafts from must have been from a TJ. I think the D44a has c-slip shafts if I remember right. The yard guy had to of been wrong.

I'll go check one of the complete ZJs this weekend.

Yeah man thanks we want to make sure.. LOL
 
Hi What is the number on the green Speedi Sleeve box to get the right one in the shop

Thanks for clear how to do it!:yelclap:

it seem like it is SKF Speedi-Sleeve CR 99167
 
Back
Top