Valvetrain Torque Specs, Lifter Noise

My lifters make noise, and I don't know any XJ's locally whose doesn't. I may have to sell it soon as I'm moving and don't have the space. Anybody know the torque specs of the lifters? Is there a way to test and see if any are bad, instead of replacing all of the valve train? I was told my motor was rebuilt 10k ago, but it seems unlikely. Its a 96 Classic, I-6, 232, aw4. 125k on the odo, but supposedly just 10k on the motor.

Hallo, Imo there are no torque specification for the hydraulic lifters.
There are spec. for rockerarms capscrews.(19 Ft-lbs) aperwork
Maybe you can try a lifter cleaner to put into the engineoil.

wim

Half marks - torque to 19 pound-feet with the valve closed. You'll need a 3/4" socket and a large ratchet to manually turn the crankshaft, and no other adjustments are necessary.

It's possible that some crud has gotten into the lifters (you aren't using Pennzoil, are you? Yech...) There are a few ways to address this:

1) Drain the engine oil, pour in six quarts of Diesel. Remove distributor/camshaft sync drive, and run the pump with a drill motor. Drain, refill with engine oil.

2) Drain the engine oil. Refill, substituting one quart of automatic transmission fluid (Type F is more detergent, if you can find it) for one quart of oil. Run normally.

3) Run the engine flush of your choice - I prefer Berryman's B-12 "Chemtool".

4) Drain the engine oil. Refill, substituting one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for one quart of engine oil. I know - funky name. The stuff works for any of a number of things! I've used it as an upper cylinder lubricating for small engines, an engine flush, an oil viscosity improver (cold starts with an air-cooled engine in northern Indiana winters aren't fun...) a prelube for assembling parts, a honing oil, a cutting oil, an air-tool oil, ...

I'd suggest removing the lifters and cleaning them, but you have to pull the head to do that (most other sixes have an access plate in the side of the block so you can pull the lifters without a lot of work. Not so with AMC. Damn...)

i think if you just use the diesel oil ( higher detergent propertys ) it may help.

abieex1 said:

i think if you just use the diesel oil ( higher detergent propertys ) it may help.

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Diesel oil has higher acid neutralisers, not really more detergent. Diesel engines form sulphuric acid in the crankcase, thus the neutralisers.

And, most oils that aren't "API Energy Saving" have a Diesel spec on them anyhow - that's the "C" part of the "SxCy" on the back. ("C" for "Compression Ignition".)

When checking hydraulic valve lifters, remember that grit, sludge, varnish or other foreign matter will seriously affect operation of these lifters. If any foreign substance is found in the lifters or engine where it may be circulated by the lubrication system, a thorough cleaning job must be done to avoid a repetition of lifter trouble.

To help prevent lifter trouble, the engine oil and oil filter must be changed as recommended in the service manual. The engine oil must be heavy-duty type (MS marked on container) and must also conform to GM Specification 6041-M to avoid detrimental formation of sludge and varnish. A car owner should be specifically advised of these requirements when the car is delivered. Faulty valve lifter operation usually appears under one of the following conditions:

1. Rapping noise only when the engine is started. When engine is stopped, any lifter on a camshaft lobe is under pressure of the valve spring; therefore, leak down or escape of oil from the lower chamber can occur. When the engine is started a few seconds may be required to fill the lifter, particularly in cold weather. If noise occurs only occasionally, it may be considered normal requiring no correction. If noise occurs daily, however, check for (a) oil too heavy for prevailing temperatures, (b) excessive varnish in lifter.
2. Intermittent Rapping Noise. An intermittent rapping noise that appears and disappears every few seconds indicates leakage at check ball seat due to foreign particles, varnish, or defective surface of check ball or seat. Recondition, clean, and/or replace lifters as necessary.
3. Noise at idle and low speed. If one or more valve lifters are noisy on idle at up to approximately 25 mph but quiet at higher speeds, it indicates excessive leak down or faulty check ball seat on plunger. With engine idling, lifters with excessive leak down rate may be spotted by pressing down on each rocker arm above the push rod with equal pressure. Recondition or replace noisy lifters.
4. Generally noisy at all speeds. Check for high oil level in crankcase. See subparagraph (1) above. With engine idling, strike each rocker arm above push rod several sharp blows with a mallet; if noise disappears, it indicates that foreign material was keeping check ball from seating. Stop engine and place lifters on camshaft base circle. If there is lash clearance in any valve train, it indicates a stuck lifter plunger, worn lifter body lower end, or worn camshaft lobe.
5. Loud noise at normal operating temperature only. If a lifter develops a loud noise when engine is at normal operating temperature, but is quiet when engine is below normal temperature, it indicates an excessively fast leak down rate or scored lifter plunger. Recondition or replace lifter.

OneBadXJ said:

When checking hydraulic valve lifters, remember that grit, sludge, varnish or other foreign matter will seriously affect operation of these lifters. If any foreign substance is found in the lifters or engine where it may be circulated by the lubrication system, a thorough cleaning job must be done to avoid a repetition of lifter trouble.

To help prevent lifter trouble, the engine oil and oil filter must be changed as recommended in the service manual. The engine oil must be heavy-duty type (MS marked on container) and must also conform to GM Specification 6041-M to avoid detrimental formation of sludge and varnish. A car owner should be specifically advised of these requirements when the car is delivered. Faulty valve lifter operation usually appears under one of the following conditions:

1. Rapping noise only when the engine is started. When engine is stopped, any lifter on a camshaft lobe is under pressure of the valve spring; therefore, leak down or escape of oil from the lower chamber can occur. When the engine is started a few seconds may be required to fill the lifter, particularly in cold weather. If noise occurs only occasionally, it may be considered normal requiring no correction. If noise occurs daily, however, check for (a) oil too heavy for prevailing temperatures, (b) excessive varnish in lifter.
2. Intermittent Rapping Noise. An intermittent rapping noise that appears and disappears every few seconds indicates leakage at check ball seat due to foreign particles, varnish, or defective surface of check ball or seat. Recondition, clean, and/or replace lifters as necessary.
3. Noise at idle and low speed. If one or more valve lifters are noisy on idle at up to approximately 25 mph but quiet at higher speeds, it indicates excessive leak down or faulty check ball seat on plunger. With engine idling, lifters with excessive leak down rate may be spotted by pressing down on each rocker arm above the push rod with equal pressure. Recondition or replace noisy lifters.
4. Generally noisy at all speeds. Check for high oil level in crankcase. See subparagraph (1) above. With engine idling, strike each rocker arm above push rod several sharp blows with a mallet; if noise disappears, it indicates that foreign material was keeping check ball from seating. Stop engine and place lifters on camshaft base circle. If there is lash clearance in any valve train, it indicates a stuck lifter plunger, worn lifter body lower end, or worn camshaft lobe.
5. Loud noise at normal operating temperature only. If a lifter develops a loud noise when engine is at normal operating temperature, but is quiet when engine is below normal temperature, it indicates an excessively fast leak down rate or scored lifter plunger. Recondition or replace lifter.

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Well, I've already added Pennzoil into the truck(always used it in everything else), substituting 1qt for MMO. That made it somewhat quieter, but it could be my imagination. I also know it has a manifold leak... Can someone tell me Why the manifold leaks may sound like a lifter tick? My tick is at idle, and is almost non-existent between 1500-3k. I'm going to pull the valve cover tmw, and look for play on the push rods and rockers.