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i have a 2000 xj with a rough country 3" lift and 31's. i need to drop my transfer case because its taking a toll on my front driveshaft, i noticed theres 2 bolts and 2 studs staggered. how do i remove those studs? and are the nuts on the other side of the 2 bolts welded? any input is apreciated! thanks
i have a 2000 xj with a rough country 3" lift and 31's. i need to drop my transfer case because its taking a toll on my front driveshaft, i noticed theres 2 bolts and 2 studs staggered. how do i remove those studs? and are the nuts on the other side of the 2 bolts welded? any input is apreciated! thanks
Dropping the t-case will help your rear driveshaft, and make the front driveshaft worse. It angles the rear of the t-case down, increasing the angle on the front of it.
you will need to use 2 bolts tightened together on the studs. if that dont work use a pipe wrench and some heat and back out the stud. yeah they are made to the unibody. sometimes they can be a major PTA.
do you mean 2 nuts locked together? im not sure i understand you, now when i "back out" the stud, will it come out of the unibody or drive it into it? then once its out how do u get another stud in there? its not going to be the same way it came out then.
Dropping the t-case will help your rear driveshaft, and make the front driveshaft worse. It angles the rear of the t-case down, increasing the angle on the front of it.
Dropping the t-case will help your rear driveshaft, and make the front driveshaft worse. It angles the rear of the t-case down, increasing the angle on the front of it.
well everyone i talk to said i'm going to need one, or else im going to be eating through U-Bolts like crazy, so i assumed they were right. in any case, i had to just recently replace my front drivshaft because there was so much play in the 'sleve' end of the shaft it wou make a racket wen i slowed down and i was afraid it was going to come apart wheelin sometime. so i just thought that the lift caused that to get worn out. the lift was installed about 6-8 months before this occured
if you get the skyjacker t-case drop for 30 dollars it uses those studs and the stock bolt holes... I use this and I have put my rig through a lot ask any of the fiends....
To remove the stud: screw two nuts against each other. then un-screw the top nut so it locks against the bottom nut. if you can get some penatrating oil and squirt it into the Bolt hole so it hits the stud (inside the "frame") this will help. also HEAT! if you don't have access to a torch, a map gas torch from home depot is better than nothing. heat the "frame" around the stud, this will heat the welded nut. Then un-screw the top nut (it will lock against the bottom nut) and the stud should give. Then replace with longer bolts and a t-case spacer.
yeah tighten them into each other like they are locked together and then get 4 bolts that are 1in longer and bolt them in where the studs came out of
could it be the shaft was already worn before the lift a a already failing part went out afterwards? sounds like a lack of lube is what caused the end of the shaft to fail.
you control front driveshaft angles by rotating the axle pinion to be in-line with the driveshaft. this will change your caster but at 3" you will be alright
your front ds is a cv shaft. you need your pinion 1-2 * below the ds angle. mine front pinion is at about 3* and ds angle is around 9*, my splines stick out most of the way and i have lockers front and rear. i dont seem to have any problems with mine, no TC drop, and 5.5" of lift. i think at 3" youll be more than fine.
if you dont have vibes why mess with it?
it would take alot to wear out those splines on that front shaft again with only 3" of lift and a freshly rebuilt shaft
and if so the entire stock shaft with ujoints at the jy is around 30-40$.
i lube all fittings after every wheeling trip and usually before any trip, they never really need it but i alwasy check. i second the lack of lube statement
thanks guys thats a lot of help, but the only thinng is when i lock those 2 nuts together wont it back out into the frame? so how do i get those ones out and new, longer bolts in? yea the ds could have been worn when i got the stock jeep i guess. i kept it lubed up constantly, but eventually it got to the point where i had to grease it like every other day so i went and bought a replacment at a nearby junkyard for 20 bucks. the only reason that i replaced it was the noise i was getting when i went wheeling or slowed down. anything under 10mph it made a real noticeable 'clanking' noice
Once you tighten the Nuts together, you will back the stud out just like it's a bolt. If that doesn't work, and it didn't for me. I used my mig welder and welded one of the nuts to the stud, and then turned them back out.
The kit I used came with 4 longer bolts, instead of 2 bolts and 2 studs.
what about the 2 bolts? how do u get them out? b/c i have to replace them and i dont know how to pull them out of my frame. the stud trick seems like it'll work fine, but the bolts are another story, once i get the nuts off , then what do i do?
This is true for avoiding vibes in the *rear* shaft - it's the opposite for the front shaft, assuming front leaf springs (ha, on a cherokee*?), a front pinion will sink slightly due to spring wrap under torque. However, with an OEM 4 link suspension at the front it won't wrap (unless I'm misunderstanding something or your bushings are very soft)... so you want the angle difference across the U-joint on the front pinion to be zero *at ride height* i.e. with the normal number of people and amount of gear in the vehicle. It won't matter offroad really unless the angle is really really wonky because you'll be going pretty slow, but it sure will matter on-road.
This is all my thoughts, not real experience on the matter - consider it food for thought and come to your own conclusions, and feel free to tell me I'm completely wrong if you have a good reason to!
* I know some people do this, but it's pretty rare.
