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8.25 Axle Shaft Removal

Jamescad04

NAXJA Forum User
I just wanted to run this by you guys since I could not find much information on this at all.

To remove the axle shaft I have to remove the brake drum. Then I have to drain and remove the differential cover. Remove the bolt holding the spider gear shaft, and remove that shaft. Push inward on the axle shaft to remove the "c" clip on the inside.

Does this seem correct I have pulled together small bits of information from looking at the axle and from doing research on the internet. I have started to do this but ran outta daylight last night and have to work till 5 today. But I don't want to do something that I cant reverse or that will damage something.

I have to do this to figure out what 8.25 I have 27 or 29 spline Since mine is a 96.
 
Chances are it is a 27 spline. All the 96's I ahve come across were 27. I'm going to move this to OEM tech for others to find and use.
 
You dont need to remove the brakes or axle if all you want to know is the spline count,just remove a spider gear!
 
OK so I removed my axle shaft yesterday evening, turns out I have a 29 spline! party1:

Here is a basic write up on how to do this. I couldn't find much on how to do this when i was searching so here the rest of you go.

First I removed all my brake components.

downsized_1029091747.jpg


Second I drained the diff and cleaned it up so I could get some good pics. I also removed one of the brackets which hold the spider gear assembly for ease of getting my big hands in there and to fit my ratchet in for the next step.

downsized_1029091747a.jpg


Next I unbolted removed the center pin which goes through two of the spider gears.

downsized_1029091748.jpg


Push in on the axle shaft...

downsized_1029091750.jpg


and remove the c-clip.

downsized_1029091749.jpg


Now just slide the axle shaft right out.

downsized_1029091751.jpg

downsized_1029091751a.jpg
 
What's the build date on your 96? Congrats on the 29 spline.

Thanks for posting this up. It will be helpful when I get around to doing my disc brake conversion.
 
Great writeup!

Side note - not sure if you're supposed to remove the bearing caps like that on an 8.25, those fine threads on the carrier bearing preload adjusters might be tough to get back together properly - I forget who mentioned this or even if this is right, hopefully one of the differential experts will know...

Also, the bit in the middle is called the "carrier" as far as I know. To get the crosspin bolt out without taking off a bearing cap I would go to Sears and pick up a ratcheting box wrench (their brand is Craftsman GearWrench, other brands will have them as well) so that you don't need to get a ratchet and a socket in there.

EDIT: this is something like what you're looking for, though I'm not sure if it's the right size. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...em_ID=57902&group_ID=14316&store=&dir=catalog
 
Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I was just wondering about this process the other day.

So, without the C-clip in there, the whoe shaft/drum/wheel/tire package would just pull right off the Jeep? Shouldn't that be a little scary?
 
Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I was just wondering about this process the other day.

So, without the C-clip in there, the whoe shaft/drum/wheel/tire package would just pull right off the Jeep? Shouldn't that be a little scary?

You are correct. That IS the weak link. Sometimes people tack weld them in.
 
Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I was just wondering about this process the other day.

So, without the C-clip in there, the whoe shaft/drum/wheel/tire package would just pull right off the Jeep? Shouldn't that be a little scary?
c-clip-axle-fail.jpg


Yup! :scared:
 
Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I was just wondering about this process the other day.

So, without the C-clip in there, the whoe shaft/drum/wheel/tire package would just pull right off the Jeep? Shouldn't that be a little scary?

These guys are absolutely correct. but once you put it together there is really no room for the axle shaft to move and the c-clips to fall out I would just make sure you put them back in or you get that fail pic in real life which would suck! :twak:
 
These guys are absolutely correct. but once you put it together there is really no room for the axle shaft to move and the c-clips to fall out I would just make sure you put them back in or you get that fail pic in real life which would suck! :twak:
Yeah, the real issue is when you bust a shaft on the trail and your wheel says "screw you guys, I'm going home."

Good to know about the clearance behind the crosspin bolt.
 
I'm pulling 8.25 shafts this week and had a few follow-up questions. Admittedly, I haven't checked the FSM yet.

1. Is there only one bolt holding the spider gears in place or are there two bolts.

2. Does the c-clip have any amoun of tension holding it in place once you push the axle inward? It doesn't appear to have much tension. What is the best tool for c-clip removal?
 
I'm pulling 8.25 shafts this week and had a few follow-up questions. Admittedly, I haven't checked the FSM yet.

1. Is there only one bolt holding the spider gears in place or are there two bolts.

2. Does the c-clip have any amoun of tension holding it in place once you push the axle inward? It doesn't appear to have much tension. What is the best tool for c-clip removal?

Shame on you! :D

One - holds the pin in place. No bolts hold the spider gears.

None

Pliers

Ron
 
Yeah, just pop the cross shaft retention bolt (careful, use the right socket, if you round it off, it's a bastard to get out!*) slide the cross shaft out, remove the spider gears, push each shaft in, grab and remove the C-clip, then pull the axle shaft out. Done.

* for instance, on the 8.8 I got at the junkyard, I didn't realize the cross shaft retention bolt has yellow locktite on it, requiring a fair degree of heat to remove. I rounded off the head of the darn bolt and had to carefully grind the head clean, then weld a stub of a U-joint strap bolt onto it, heat the carrier and bolt carefully with a small propane torch, then back the old bolt out. Luckily a pack of brand new bolts ran me only $6 at the local Ford dealer. Learn from my mistake!
 
Why is the bearing cap off?



Why did you take all the brake hardware off?

Gravity will be the only tool you need to remove a c-clip.
 
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