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136A alt swap Question

YXwhenUcanFAB?

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Wisconsin
Yes, I searched...


The alt I pulled off of my 00 XJ has a 2 wire plug, my new 136A alt has 2 ring terminals like all the other alts ive seen for this swap. Both are nippon-Denso alternators, and all part #'s match what ive seen in the threads. But no one mentions the changes that need to happen to adapt from the plug to the ring terminals. Which wire goes to which terminal?? How did you adapt?
 
Don't quote me on this as I'm sure 5-90 will chime in or you can pm him, but from looking at a few fsm's the two wire plug you have is the same as the two ring terminal layout internally. One wire connects to one side of an internal coil and the other wire connects to the other side of the same coil. So you could cut the connector off and crimp on a couple of ring terminals and bolt them down on the two small studs, then a good sized, around 8 gauge, ground wire from the case to the engine block. Then it's just the power wire connecting to the main stud. But like I said don't quote me on this, PM 5-90 and he'll be able to tell you more definitively.
 
drill out the screws?

I cant with out screwing up the new alt. I am going to just cut the wires at the plug, and crimp on the 2 ring terminals i need but I need to know if those field coil wires are polarized, does it matter which terminal either wire goes to? I just cant seem to figure it out, but im leaning to, no it doesnt matter, because its just a coil. My thinking is: like most relays it shouldnt matter which side of the coil gets power, as long as there is a good power and a good ground. This wiring diagram leads me to think that im on the right path, but ive heard 2 different storys. Heres the diagram:

The Generator field source and Generator field driver are the wires in question.

tj808571.gif
 
Don't quote me on this as I'm sure 5-90 will chime in or you can pm him, but from looking at a few fsm's the two wire plug you have is the same as the two ring terminal layout internally. One wire connects to one side of an internal coil and the other wire connects to the other side of the same coil. So you could cut the connector off and crimp on a couple of ring terminals and bolt them down on the two small studs, Thats the game plan then a good sized, around 8 gauge, ground wire from the case to the engine block. also in the works Then it's just the power wire connecting to the main stud. But like I said don't quote me on this, PM 5-90 and he'll be able to tell you more definitively.

You posted this while i was busy replying so i didnt see it until after i posted. Everything you said seems in line with what ive read, and seen in the diagram above. I just cant seem to locate the diagram for the donor vehicle to verify this. Thanks for the help!
 
I've got FSM's for a few of the different years and they all show the same thing with the two wires going across a coil. I looked at one of the wiring pieces I cut off an alt when I swapped mine out and the two wires going in were dark green and white/blue stripe. So I would assume that the white/blue stripe was the source and the dark green was the one coming out.
 
I've got FSM's for a few of the different years and they all show the same thing with the two wires going across a coil. I looked at one of the wiring pieces I cut off an alt when I swapped mine out and the two wires going in were dark green and white/blue stripe. So I would assume that the white/blue stripe was the source and the dark green was the one coming out.

I follow you here. Do you know which post is the in/out then? I cant seem to find anything in a FSM that differentiates between the posts. (IE: Post A is the in and is located here, Post B is the out and is located here) My alt was lacking any wiring when i got it, otherwise there would be no problem.
 
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The coil is the field coil for the alternator, and it is not polarised.

The field coil is fed by the regulator - the varying voltage going in (typically .5-4VDC) is what regulates the current output of the alternator (I know it's called a "voltage regulator" - but it regulates current. Trust me on this...)

It should be possible to reterminate those connexions as required to fit the new alternator.
 
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