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Crossmember weld nut broke. Help asap

jeepfreak1020

jeepfreak1020

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Thornton
So I went to drop my crossmember today so I could put my new t-sace drop in, Well to find out my driverside bolt, the 2nd one. The nut in the frame is broke and the only thing that has been holding that bolt in was gunk so it never fell out. What do I do now. I have a 98 and I have a pug in the floor to get to the frame, but its right in the middle of both bolts. What do i do? Is it ok to drive with just one bolt on there for now?
 
i had the front stud break on me. i got the nut off but the stud would not move and i got a stud extractor to remove it and broke theinner welds so i took the nut and tack weldit in place so i can use a regular bolt.im gonna have to drill a new whole in the floorright above it to fix the problem.
 
I had the version of that problem when i installed my lowering blocks
i just air hammered the welded nuts out and put a nut and washer in instead.
I used a 2 inch hole saw in the oval hole thats alread in the frame so i could get a wrench in there to hold the nut. its been okay
 
I personally wouldnt drive it like that. The crossmember holds a surprising amount of weight from the tranny/xfer case. If you cant get it from above, and dont have a welder; I actually drilled and tapped mine when I broke one off. Never had a single issue with that. Just be confident in your D+T skills and center it right and tap correctly. Worst case you drill too much and have to pop the inside nut out of there and drop a bolt down from inside anyways.
 
i broke mine when i was installing the lift kit, and i drill/tap to fix it. if you didnt drill perfect center, drilling on the nut, it will take FOREVER and make the drill bit molten metal. so be careful...
 
ya both of mine broke on drive side so i took a long drill bit and drilled through floor into weld nut and ran some long 1/2 bolts - simple and uses new hardware so no more rusty seized nutsert problems
 
aparke4 said:
ya both of mine broke on drive side so i took a long drill bit and drilled through floor into weld nut and ran some long 1/2 bolts - simple and uses new hardware so no more rusty seized nutsert problems
Click to expand...

That's good but how do you keep the nuts from loosening? Lock tight? or Ny-Loks? I figuring you can't really get a good torque without starting to crush the uni-frame.
 
Two washers up top on floor - one small and one large - both are pretty thick and then my X - member is a homemade 1/4 for my long arms where the two holes are at uni rail so i have a lock washer and then two nuts on each bolt - just took down x member to beef it up and make a t case skid from it and they were still tight/ snug... i might for peace of mind though put a little blue loctite on them even with lock washer and two nuts back to back
 
I see most say drill and tap.. you cant tap a stud!! when you break the whole stud off and it pushes through the frame. like it did on me.
 
derrickdrew17 said:
I see most say drill and tap.. you cant tap a stud!! when you break the whole stud off and it pushes through the frame. like it did on me.
Click to expand...

what i really mean is drill the snapped stud (not nut) out then tap it. worked fine. what made it so hard that i didnt drill perfect centered with small drill bit then when i step up to the final drill size bit, its drillinginto the nut. the nut for some reason its so super hard that my drill bit went nowhere and became molten metal as i was at it for 10 min or so. i went to store to get that spankin expensive gold plated drill bits then finally went through the hole then of course tap it and its holding great now
 
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