ARB line routing

I tried searching but couldn't find anything, I'm pretty sure I've seen related threads, though...

I'll be installing an ARB into my D30 in a couple weeks. The air source will be an air tank in the rear cargo area. I'm thinking that I'll run the air line through the floor under the back seat, then zip-tied to the fuel lines up to the left control arm (TNT longarm) and follow that to the diff. Just wondering how others have done this, any tips or ideas?

Also, any suggestions on the hoses? I was thinking about using a braided line (like this one: http://www.quadratec.com/products/12706_51X_PG.htm) to a bulkhead connector at the floor. Or just using a grommet and going through the floor...

The grommet should be just fine. If you're worried about any flexibility and ruggedness at the diff, get the Heavy Duty Air Line kit (HDAL) from ARB. That will take care of everything up to the frame with what resembles an air brake hose. As long as the rest of your lines are secure you should be just fine with the grommet coming through. If in doubt, check it after installation for any signs of rubbing. Oh, and make sure you have a real tubing cutter to get the angles perfect on your tubing cuts. No burrs and perfect 90 degree angles will make you happy.

I ran my air line inside under the rug along the drivers side and through the cowl...

I did buy the 72 inch HDAL from ARB to run from the cowl down to axle. I followed the breather line. In 12 years that has not worn a hole.

I put the blue ARB line inside some cheap Tractor Supply air line for abrasion resistance. I have a total of about 4 inches of exposed blue line. 2 inches for the compressor in the cargo area and 2 inches up around the master cylinder.

Russell also makes a SS line kit that comes in a 5' and 12'.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/ARB-Locker-Braided-Stainless-Line-Kit-p-1060.html

My current plan for plumbing to my ARB isn't going well, the above product is what I will replace it with. My switches are located in the center console. They route out, through the firewall, under the jeep, along the fuel lines and to the corresponding differentials.

Scott

All I've got is the locker and the short line for inside the diff. I traded a Trutrac for the ARB, so I'm going from scratch on the line/solenoid/switch stuff. Thanks for the Poly Performance link, gives me another option. I think the 8' section from Crown will be enough, though. Just need to get to the back seat. I'll do some measuring over the weekend, though. That HDAL stuff looks awesome, maybe a little overkill but it's another option to consider.

As I am sure you're aware the blue line provided with the Airlocker is designed to be the weak link in case of contact with a snag. Logic is the hose would be easiest and cheapest to repair.
My air source is under the hood, so not quite the same issues.

However, in the back I followed the brake line route to the front.


I followed the lower control arm to the diff as the OP suggested.

For the rear, I've got a Detroit... I wanted a selectable locker for the front. I don't think I'll have a problem snagging it on something, but on some trails there is an awful lot of brush... something to consider, I guess. If I can keep it tight to the upper arm of the radius arm, I think/hope it will be ok.

I have my compressor and solenoids in the engine compartment and my air tank above the rear axle. Lines for the air tank and the rear locker both run along side the fuel lines. There were actually two empty slots in the plastic clips that secure the fuel lines to the uniframe. My airlines snapped right into them.

As for line type, I'll second the recommendation to stick with nylon line. Just buy a pair of double female push-connect fittings and a few feet of extra nylon tubing and you can easily make any necessary repairs trail side. Damage one of those stainless braided lines on the trail and you are SOL. I did however upgrade all my 5mm ARB airline to 1/4" DOT Air Brake line using some BSP to NPT adapters. The 1/4" line is heavier duty and readily available at hardware stores if you need to get a hold of some in an emergency.

When you say all you have is the locker and the short line inside the diff, is that all you have? You should be able to piece most of the system together just fine with the exception of the bulkhead that threads into the differential. It is a 1/4" NPT threaded, 3.5mm o-ring compression to 5mm standard compression fitting. Kind of an oddball. Hopefully you have that piece as well...

fyrfytr1717 said:

As for line type, I'll second the recommendation to stick with nylon line. Just buy a pair of double female push-connect fittings and a few feet of extra nylon tubing and you can easily make any necessary repairs trail side. Damage one of those stainless braided lines on the trail and you are SOL. I did however upgrade all my 5mm ARB airline to 1/4" DOT Air Brake line using some BSP to NPT adapters. The 1/4" line is heavier duty and readily available at hardware stores if you need to get a hold of some in an emergency.

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Out of curiousity, what fitting did you use to connect your 1/4" tubing to the bulkhead fitting? In order to complete my plumbing, I need this adapter and am having the time of my life finding it. From what I understand, it needs to be 3/8" -24 UNF male --> 1/8" NPT female (in my case, I have a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" OD push fitting).

Scott

Seiler said:

Out of curiousity, what fitting did you use to connect your 1/4" tubing to the bulkhead fitting? In order to complete my plumbing, I need this adapter and am having the time of my life finding it. From what I understand, it needs to be 3/8" -24 UNF male --> 1/8" NPT female (in my case, I have a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" OD push fitting).

Scott

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Tell you what, it took a lot of searching to figure out what fitting to use... :read:

You're correct that the threading needs to be 3/8"-24. Turns out that while 3/8 NPT is 18tpi, some compression fittings for 3/16 tube use 3/8"-24 threads. The tip of the compression fitting is not an exact match for the original ARB piece, but it's flared shape seals up against the rubber o-ring just fine. A 3/8"-24 inverted flare would be the perfect piece, but I just couldn't manage to track down an inverted flare to NPT adapter with the correct threading.

In my case, I used a 1/4" NPT to 1/4" Push-Connect elbow to hook up to my 1/4" tubing. The proper fitting for me was this 3/16" OD Tube to 1/4" NPTF Female Pipe adapter. You would need this 3/16" OD Tube to 1/8" NPTF Female Pipe adapter. Just discard the compression nut and brass sleeve and thread the compression fitting into the ARB bulkhead.

I don't know why, but only the adapters with NPTF (Dryseal) pipe threading have 3/8"-24 threads on the compression end. The NPT adapters have 3/8"-20 threads. The NPTF works just fine, it's just tapered to be used without sealant when using both a NPTF male and NPTF female. You'll still want to use sealant when joining it to your NPT to Push-Connect adapter.

fyrfytr1717 said:

Tell you what, it took a lot of searching to figure out what fitting to use... :read:

You're correct that the threading needs to be 3/8"-24. Turns out that while 3/8 NPT is 18tpi, some compression fittings for 3/16 tube use 3/8"-24 threads. The tip of the compression fitting is not an exact match for the original ARB piece, but it's flared shape seals up against the rubber o-ring just fine. A 3/8"-24 inverted flare would be the perfect piece, but I just couldn't manage to track down an inverted flare to NPT adapter with the correct threading.

In my case, I used a 1/4" NPT to 1/4" Push-Connect elbow to hook up to my 1/4" tubing. The proper fitting for me was this 3/16" OD Tube to 1/4" NPTF Female Pipe adapter. You would need this 3/16" OD Tube to 1/8" NPTF Female Pipe adapter. Just discard the compression nut and brass sleeve and thread the compression fitting into the ARB bulkhead.

I don't know why, but only the adapters with NPTF (Dryseal) pipe threading have 3/8"-24 threads on the compression end. The NPT adapters have 3/8"-20 threads. The NPTF works just fine, it's just tapered to be used without sealant when using both a NPTF male and NPTF female. You'll still want to use sealant when joining it to your NPT to Push-Connect adapter.

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I'll agree with you on the searching part. Thank you so much for your post. I just ordered a few, and look forward to finally piecing together my setup.

Thanks again :worship:

Scott