Hi guys, new to the forum and just bought an XJ...

Hy guys and gals, Im new to the forum. Just bought an 84 5 speed 2 door Cherokee with the 2.8L, but its not the first XJ I've owned. My first was a 4 door automatic 84 Cherokee with the 2.5, and my second was an 86 Wagoneer 4 door automatic with the 2.8L. This 84 that I just got though is the first that I'm considering modding and taking 4x4ing...Needed something for snow season though, as my Fiero just isn't gonna cut it

First things first though. This 84 that I just bought needs a bit of work. Floor pans are rusted out, though someone fiberglassed them. How hard would it be to replace the pans with some aftermarket ones? I've seen them for sale at Rock Auto for about $40 a side...

Second, what would cause the 4wd light on the dash to stay on when the 4wd isn't engaged?

Third, how many belts is the 84 V6 supposed to have? Reason I ask is because this one looks like it is missing a belt, but it doesn't seem to be an important one. There is one pulley, just below the alternator that doesn't have a belt around it, and a groove on the crank pulley that is open...Any idea what belt this might be? Can anyone point me in the direction of a belt routing guide online?

Fourth, what kind of options do I have for suspension upgrades? I'm mainly planning on using this for winter driving here in central Nebraska, but down the line I want to take it on some mountain trails...I don't want to lift it much, 3" most...Who has the best lift kits out there?

Anything I should watch for with this 84 as well? I've heard from some of the Jeep guys back home in PA that the 2.8l V6 has issues with rod bearings and rod knocks? How common is this?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as the time comes, but this should cover it for now...

Any help you guys can provide is much appreciated, and I'm glad to be a part of the forum

-XB

hey welcome to the forum! there is TONS of info on here and im sure youll be able to learn plenty from the search function

im not familiar with the older models nor the renix's though

3" most...Who has the best lift kits out there?

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this is up for much debate and im sure youll get varied opinions. some of the main options are 1) going with a complete kit, 2) mix and matching , or 3) a 'bastard pack' which could include parts from other vehicles such as dakota leaf packs etc.

as for complete kits, some of the big companies are Rubicon Express, ProComp, Old Man Emu, TeraFlex, etc. which ever you may go with, id recommend full leaf packs, not the add-a-leafs (AAL). add-a-leafs may be cheaper, but will cause sagging sooner or later

Thanks Nice to be back in an early XJ again...I regret selling my 2.5l 84, and have been looking for another one since (that was 3 years ago lol)...I taught myself how to wrench on that thing hehe

I was looking at the Rancho lift kits, but honestly don't know anything about them...I know their shocks are supposedly the best you can get for a Jeep (or so I'm told yet again)...

Anything major I should be looking for when I start my tune up maintenance? Already planning to install new shocks all around, fluids, filters, plugs, wires, etc...but is anything in particular needing to be checked?

Another question I have is which chapter on would be local to me? Midwest? Havent seen anyone else on here yet from Nebraska, so no idea where to even look...

Welcome to .

Here is a link to a thread for floor pans, probably more than you will ever need to know: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93863

The search engine on can't handle 3-character-or-less searches. There is a search sticky that is good to read. The workaround for the search is to use Google with a "naxja" kicker: search for "EGR" using "EGR naxja".

Just do a search for budget lift and there will be plenty of threads.

Can't help with the V6.

the missing belt is likely air pump for the emissions crap. If it looks kinda like an air conditioning compressor, that's probably the AIR pump.

Post pics and we can let you know for sure.

Hello Everyone. I am also new to Naxja. I am a friend of F-A-T-B-O-Y. He is my fiance's brother. I just bought my 86 w/2.8 4x4 from him. I am about 2.5 hours from Wood River.

ChevelleSSLS6 said:

the missing belt is likely air pump for the emissions crap. If it looks kinda like an air conditioning compressor, that's probably the AIR pump.

Post pics and we can let you know for sure.

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I got to thinking about that last night actually...My 84 2.5l that I had didn't have a smog pump...but thinking about it now, that makes sense. It does look like an air conditioning compressor without AC hard lines running to it...

Did they all have a smog pump on them?

I think most everything came with a smog pump back then, until they re-engineered all the engines to run clean (lean fuel mix) enough so that they'd run ok and meet the epa restrictions.

themax01 said:

Hello Everyone. I am also new to Naxja. I am a friend of F-A-T-B-O-Y. He is my fiance's brother. I just bought my 86 w/2.8 4x4 from him. I am about 2.5 hours from Wood River.

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And welcome to you too!

Welcome.
Alot of people dog the 2.8 GM V6 and it isn't a racehorse, but I had a 85 XJ with the 2.8 and it didn't mind rockclimbing at all. I have also had the 2.8 & 3.1 in Camaros and it's was a reliable engine for me. Good luck.

I've been pondering the idea of swapping a 3.4 pushrod into this jeep to replace the 2.8 carbed V6 thats there, and I've seen kits out there that let you do it...I'd honestly like to get rid of that damn carbed V6 setup and go to a MPFI setup, without using just a stand alone fuel management system. I don't need a racehorse, just something reliable that is good on gas in the winter...and from what I understand, the late 80's early 90s Camarobird 3.4 is a straight drop in swap if you get new mounts and redrill the starter holes on the other side of the block (same as swapping into a Fiero)...

Anyone confirm this?

I am pretty sure the 2.8/3.1/3.4 blocks are all the same and the 3.4 is a bolt in replacement. The Camaro 3.1 was 140hp, the 3.4 was 160hp stock which is alot more than you have now. I have also seen guys on fulltrottlev6.com custom swap the intake/top end from a FWD 3.1. It is not a bolt-on swap but those engines had 200hp stock N/A and like 220hp with the stock turbo. Fullthrottlev6.com has alot of info on all the 2.8/3.1/3.4 engines.

Just my opinion, and I have very little snow experience.
Look for a factory front skid (junk yard part) to smooth out the deep stuff.
Be sure you have good tires. I just bought my second set of these;
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Firestone&model=Destination+A/T in 235 / 75 size for a bit more clearance over stock.
Hold off on the lift, you are probably just fine for fire roads and such. But if you really "need" one, you have all winter to research before you commit.

My original thought was to stick with what I know, the 2.8 from a Fiero But the guys over there on the forum suggested the 3.1/3.4 camarobird motor since the Fiero 2.8l is a transverse setup...only difference I see is possibly the bell housing and the wiring harness on the 3.1/3.4... But I've seen a company out there when I was googling it that makes an adapter for SBC's and the 60 degree V6 stuff... Novak adapt I think?

One of the major issues I need to fix with this is the brakes...the pedal is very light, and the brakes don't seem to grab very well (I can hear them drag when I push the pedal)...The pedal sinks almost to the floor when I push it...

Its only the brake pedal though, not the clutch pedal...Looks like it needs new brake lines in the front, they are cracked but not leaking... Would a bad master cyl cause the above problem? Do the early XJ's like this have a power brake booster? Any common issues that could cause this that may be causing it?

The MC could have bad piston seals and be "bypassing" fluid.

If the non-metal brake lines are showing cracks they should be changed. When those lines get old they will swell when pressure is applied, diminishing the hydraulic pressure to the calipers and wheel cylinders. I would replace them first thing and then bleed the system making sure to get all of the old fluid pumped out. Don't let the pedal go to the floor when bleeding, that could take out the piston seals if they aren't bad already. Two in front, one in the rear, replace them all.

To check your power booster (if you have one) with the engine off pump the pedal four times and then hold pressure on it. Start the engine, if the pedal drops your booster is working.

After you replace the lines and change the system fluid/bleed the brakes post back and let us know the results.

The guy I bought this off of said he had to pump the brakes and the clutch every morning, and it lost fluid and he had to fill it about once every 3 weeks... Planning on doing brake lines and pads/shoes all around. Also need to fix the E brake, think the cables are broken. And I still have to chase down an electrical gremlin (slow drain over 3-4 days)...But I can't complain for a $600 XJ with working 4wd

Still curious why the 4wd light would stay on when the 4wd isn't engaged...

XercesBlackthorne said:

The guy I bought this off of said he had to pump the brakes and the clutch every morning, and it lost fluid and he had to fill it about once every 3 weeks... Planning on doing brake lines and pads/shoes all around. Also need to fix the E brake, think the cables are broken. And I still have to chase down an electrical gremlin (slow drain over 3-4 days)...But I can't complain for a $600 XJ with working 4wd

Still curious why the 4wd light would stay on when the 4wd isn't engaged...

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If you are loosing fluid I would check for a leaking MC, get under the dash with a bright spotlight and check the rear of the MC where the rod from the pedal enters--if it leaks there it will take out the wiring and fuse block. Pull the rear drums and check the wheel cylinders--use a small flat blade screwdriver and lift the rubber boots and check for fluid.

If you are loosing fluid you have air in the system. Replace those lines, repair any other leaks.

The 4wd light being on at the wrong time is common. If you have the D30 vacuum disconnect axle the lines or vacuum motor could be the cause, or the switch on the transfer case.

How hard would it be to replace the switch on the transfer case and/or the vacuum motor? Its not really an issue if the light is just on and the 4wd works properly I would imagine, and if I'm really wanting to be lazy I can just ignore it, but I'd like to fix it so I know its nothing major lol...

I'll check the MC rod and the fuse block, see if there is any fluid leaking there, then post back...

On another note (forum related), does one have to be a member of clubs to post FS threads? I run a small headlamp business on the side, and I deal with a lot of Hella products...from what I've seen, you guys are pretty big on the Hella FF500 series lamps, and I can give a good deal on them and get anything in their product line, and then some

XercesBlackthorne said:

How hard would it be to replace the switch on the transfer case and/or the vacuum motor? Its not really an issue if the light is just on and the 4wd works properly I would imagine, and if I'm really wanting to be lazy I can just ignore it, but I'd like to fix it so I know its nothing major lol...

I'll check the MC rod and the fuse block, see if there is any fluid leaking there, then post back...

On another note (forum related), does one have to be a member of clubs to post FS threads? I run a small headlamp business on the side, and I deal with a lot of Hella products...from what I've seen, you guys are pretty big on the Hella FF500 series lamps, and I can give a good deal on them and get anything in their product line, and then some

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I believe you do have to be a member, and I think there are special rules for vendors. Check the stickys at the top of the vendors' forums for rules.