View Full Version : Gauge Cluster Swap

May 14th, 2005, 14:54
Many XJs and MJs came lacking a tachometer and real warning gauges. Instead these gauge clusters have a huge gas gauge and "idiot" lights for the oil pressure, coolant temp, and alternator. Swapping in a full factory gauge cluster in place of these less favorable gauges is a popular modification. Here is what you need to know:

With every pre-'97 swap, from idiot lights to gauges, you will need a new oil pressure sending unit and a coolant temperature sending unit.
'84-'96 Oil pressure sending unit is Mopar #56026779
'84-'96 Coolant temperature sending unit is Mopar #56027012
'97-'01 Oil pressure sending unit is Mopar #56031005
'97-'01 Coolant temperature sending unit is Mopar #56027873

'84-'96 Gauge clusters look very similar, but the main difference is the speedometer cable.

'84-mid '87 and mid '87-'90 use two different speedometer cables. If you're swapping gauges from a '84-'90 XJ, you will need to get the speedometer cable from the donor vehicle.

Gauge clusters from '91-'96 get input for the speedo electronicly.

Clusters from '97+ XJs are also completely electronic, but different from all others ('96 and older).

So... '84-'90 are interchangeable (as long as you get that speedo cable!). '91-'96 are interchangeable . And '97-'01 are interchangeable (also interchangeable with '97+ Wranglers).

July 2nd, 2005, 23:04
The Reason:
The XJ Cherokee came in many different models and trim levels.
All the models had different options, and some of them were better equipped than others. For my purposes, (off road driving included) I decided that I wanted more than just idiot lights to be able to tell me if something was wrong with my engine.Specs:
This write up is specific for the 91-96 4.0L I-6 HO Engine found in the Jeep Cherokee, but I will include all other information that I have found in researching this topic.
There were 4 different gauge clusters for the Cherokee in the US production years of 1984 till 2001. the gauge clusters in the
84-86 were electronic except for the speedometer, which was run off a cable. The 87-90 were also the electronic and run off a
Speedo-cable, but the Speedo cable from the earlier year is different, so when you get your parts, make sure to get the upper cable
from which ever jeep the cluster came from. The 91-96 gauge clusters are all interchangeable and the 97-01 clusters are all swappable

The oil pressure sender and the temperature senders also need to be changed for gauge senders on 84-96 vehicles. When you go to buy new
senders, it will say next to it on the parts list LIGHTS or GUAGE, obviously you need the gauge senders for this one. There are two
temperature senders on the 4.0L I-6 HO engine - one in the front and one in the back. The back one is the one that you need to swap.
the front one is for the engine computer, so it doesn't affect the gauges. On 97-01 vehicles, I've been told that the factory senders will


After aquiring parts, take the dash off.
The cover has 4 screws holding it on.
- 2 screws above the main gauges
- 1 screw above the headlights switch
- 1 screw above the cigarette 12V power plug
- 2 snap-in spots on the far side of the radio.Be careful when pulling this out. There is also a piece below the steering column that pops out fairly easy.

Next remove the 6 screws that hold the cluster in place
Then disconnect the 2 connectors on the back of the clusters - The white on the drivers side (pinch top and bottom) and the blue one on center (pinch front and back)

Now your cluster should be free to throw in the passenger seat
Now is a good time to check the bulbs in the new cluster and see if any are blackened - if they are, pull working bulbs from the old cluster and replace them...

pop the conectors in the new gauge package, put the mounting screws back in, and the dash cover back on, and your done inside the cab.

Now for the dirty part - Open the hood and swap the senders for the ones that you purchased from the dealer or aftermarket.
I opted for aftermarket and searched around.
I ordered Part Numbers
- OPS140 - Switch Oil Pressure (GP/Sorensen Brand) $25.49
- TS82771/AL6206 Temp Sender (Niehoff brand) $10.99I did the oil pressure sender first. It is located right by the Oil Filter. I read about people who broke these off when they were trying
to take them out, so I proceeded with caution. The oil pressure sender is a 1 1/6" wrench (open end, a socket wont fit over the sender - even a deep)
The oil pressure sender is right by the oil filter and distributor on the passenger side of the engine block

Then i swaped the temperature sensor - this sensor is in the back of the engine bay next to the valve cover and exhaust/intake manifolds - about 3" form the firewall....
This temp sensor is not to be confused with the temperature sensor that is in the thermostat housing on the front of the block.

after swaping bolth sensors, you are done!

The tach and voltmeter will work just fine with no changes to the sensors or anything - the leads were already there, just the gauges didnt read anything...