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Transfer case removal question

rweaver138

rweaver138

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Brooklyn, CT
Hi I did alot of searching around for some help with removing the transfer case out of an 01 sport, havent found much. But If I'm correct you remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the tranny, along with all the other misc. parts attached, (crossmember, lower tranny mount, linkage, wires) and it SHOULD come right out. Well I have all 6 bolts taken off and this thing isn't budging. I jacked up the tranny to take the pressure off the bolts or w/e and tried prying the tcase out with a couple crowbars. Me and my buddy couldnt get the damn thing to budge, I need to get this transfer case out ASAP and its really stalling the build on my 99:flamemad:. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
 
It should come apart, there is nothing else that holds them together then the bolts just make sure you got the all. The only thing I can think of is maybe it had been apart before and someone put some silicone on the matting surface of the transfer case and the transmission and that’s what keeping it together, although when I had mine out of my 98 their wasn’t any kind of seal or gasket in between the two surfaces.
 
Pull the linkage rod and the 4 crossmember bolts in the middle, support the t-case with a jack, pull the 4 crossmember bolts at the frame, take the x-member off, pull the 2 big bolts from the trans mount and pull it off. Lower the t-csse slowly on the jack, using a stubby 9/16" or 14 mm, remove the 6 washer/nuts from around the perimiter of the t-case to trans. Once they're all out, grab it with 2 hands and give it a shake, it'll slide off the studs and come off. Be prepared, it's heavy if you're a girly-man. Don't drop it on the concrete and bend or break the 6 studs on the front ring of the case.

That's pretty much how mine came off the half-dozen or so times I pulled it.
 
Oh, don't forget to pull off the vent tube up top too. Mine had a bead of silicone around the housing just inboard of the ring of studs, someone thought that needed to be sealed too i guess, it doesn't. With the engine/trans sloping aft with the jack lowered, gravity is your friend to get the t-case to come off. You also need that clearance around the tunnel to get to the 6 washer/nuts.

Work a steel shim or thin screwdriver in-between the trans and t-case in several spots, wiggle it around to break the seal if it's been siliconed. Don't pount it hard or reef on it too much, the aluminum can crack or chip.
 
Give it a tap with a rubber mallet they stick pretty well I wouldn't recommend putting a screw drive between the tranny and the t-case just my opinion. It should come loose then you can muscle it off the studs the rest of the way. It shouldn't have any silicone but its possible. If you need to lower the tranny on a jack stand and support the t-case with a jack while you pull on it.
 
re-count all 6 bolts/nuts
 
Thanks for all the replies, I'll check everything over tomorrow, but chances are it does have silicone around it, its got a SYE so the previous owner probably put that around to seal it
 
Does the tcase have to be in nuetral?:doh:​
 
rweaver138 said:
Does the tcase have to be in nuetral?:doh:​
Click to expand...

It does not matter if its in neutral, 2wd or 4wd that's all inside the T-case and with the shift linkage. So if its all disconnected it should come off. Try some PB or WD40

I helped a guy at work install a Stak Monster Box T-case on his TJ last week and every time we put it up to check and see if it was clocked correctly it would take two of us to get it back off and we never bolted it on with all the test fits, it was just a tight fit.
 
JRW7072009 said:
It does not matter if its in neutral, 2wd or 4wd that's all inside the T-case and with the shift linkage. So if its all disconnected it should come off. Try some PB or WD40

I helped a guy at work install a Stak Monster Box T-case on his TJ last week and every time we put it up to check and see if it was clocked correctly it would take two of us to get it back off and we never bolted it on with all the test fits, it was just a tight fit.
Click to expand...


good point, the weight of the t-case may be binding up the output/input shafts, you may have to "lift" it up by the tail-cone to help un-bind it.

drain the fluid out of it, that should help with a little weight at least.
 
ok

for one

nuts hold it to the tranny

and two

you need to remove the crossmember and tranny mount to get at one of the 6 nuts.


so no, you did not remove "all 6 bolts"
 
ktm racer 419 said:
ok

for one

nuts hold it to the tranny

and two

you need to remove the crossmember and tranny mount to get at one of the 6 nuts.


so no, you did not remove "all 6 bolts"
Click to expand...

He did say in his first post that he has removed the crossmember and the tranny mount, and said he has removed the 6 "bolts" that hold the t-case to the tranny so yes they are nuts "Technically" but he has already said he has removed them all.
 
JRW7072009 said:
He did say in his first post that he has removed the crossmember and the tranny mount, and said he has removed the 6 "bolts" that hold the t-case to the tranny so yes they are nuts "Technically" but he has already said he has removed them all.
Click to expand...

Thank you.
 
ktm racer 419 said:
ok

for one

nuts hold it to the tranny

and two

you need to remove the crossmember and tranny mount to get at one of the 6 nuts.


so no, you did not remove "all 6 bolts"
Click to expand...

if the nut seizes to the stud, it becomes a bolt :illegalflipoffsmilie:
 
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