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Water pump question?

Since you asked @4hrs,otherwise about 30 minutes!
 
All depends on how mechanically inclined you are. 1/2 to 1 hour if you are mechanically inclined and it all goes right. All day if not.... But seriously it is a pretty straight forward change out.
 
Is there enough room to get the old pump out without removing the radiator?
 
yes, there's plenty of room when the fan clutch and fan are pulled out.

(good idea to put cardboard over the rad to protect it during the job, and scrape the engine block mating surface until its sparkling clean.)
 
195°

anything colder is for race engines

I also used a straight water outlet fitting when I swapped my water pump. The stock, bent water outlet pipe is a bastard, can't be retightened afterwards. Sealing the threads is a must for that 3/8 fitting. Had mine weep on me, must have driven too soon
 
Last edited:
92DripCherokee said:
195°

anything colder is for race engines

I also used a straight water outlet fitting when I swapped my water pump. The stock, bent water outlet pipe is a bastard, can't be retightened afterwards. Sealing the threads is a must for that 3/8 fitting. Had mine weep on me, must have driven too soon
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip!What do i need for an new outlet?I may get new hoses's also,do i need a different style hose also?Thanks
 
If you get a new bottom hose and it doesn't have a spring inside it take out the one from your original and put it in the new one. If your original has one that is...
 
What usually is called a "water neck" is the thermostat housing. If there's no pitting, reuse it after good scraping and a fresh gasket.

when you replace the bent heater hose tube with a shorter, straight fitting, you simply need a longer 5/8 heater hose to reach the heater core. No need to change hose types, just cut generic 5/8 heater hose to fit.

Universal 3/8 NPT heater hose fitting (water outlet) 2-3/4 inches long, with 5/8 nipple

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-...start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0:0
 
I had some time to work on the XJ today.It took about 1/2hr. to pull the water pump,elec. fan,thermostat and all hoses.VERY well designed,and easy to work on!I hope to get the parts this week and get her buttoned up. :cheers:
 
92DripCherokee said:
195°

anything colder is for race engines

I also used a straight water outlet fitting when I swapped my water pump. The stock, bent water outlet pipe is a bastard, can't be retightened afterwards. Sealing the threads is a must for that 3/8 fitting. Had mine weep on me, must have driven too soon
Click to expand...

I bought a new one from the dealer and looking back I'm not sure why they put red locktite on it from the factory. I have no idea how I will ever get it back off again. I am hoping my hesco water pump will last into the ages and so will that pipe so I won't have to hassle with it.

If that's the part you're referring too. I think it's the heater return pipe according to the dealer.

I had a problem with my thermostat housing leaking after I bolted everything down. I drained all the coolant, applied thermostat housing sealant/gasket and let it sit how ever long it was supposed to. It turned out there was just enough coolant stuck in the head that once all sealed up it managed to seep and ruin the sealant/gasket. I had to use a fluid pump to get a few ounces of coolant from the head.

It was the craziest thing, it sat with no thermostat housing for a few days after the coolant was drained and no coolant dripped out. After the 2nd time filling with coolant only to see a leak I let the sealant cure then removed the thermostat housing. The gasket area was wet(no coolant was added) so it was stuck in the head and a tiny bit seeped...
 
That thermostat housing is really easy to put a small crack into it if you torque it too tight or don't do it in a series of low to proper torque. I had to pitch a new one in the trash, and ended up using the old one which worked fine.
 
robert2008 said:
That thermostat housing is really easy to put a small crack into it if you torque it too tight or don't do it in a series of low to proper torque. I had to pitch a new one in the trash, and ended up using the old one which worked fine.
Click to expand...

Torque spec on mine is 15ft lbs, can't imagine doing that in a few passes. Something that is say 75ft lbs + I can see doing in passes but 15 really?

Are you sure the thermostat didn't fall loose and cause the crack to happen.
 
iwannadie said:
Torque spec on mine is 15ft lbs, can't imagine doing that in a few passes. Something that is say 75ft lbs + I can see doing in passes but 15 really?

Are you sure the thermostat didn't fall loose and cause the crack to happen.
Click to expand...

Set the torque wrench to 10/12/15. Yah, you can do it. :)
 
All I know is that they crack really easily, and it's better to take your time with them. If that's by 2 or 3 pounds per tightening round then it's time well spent for a $30 dollar housing.
 
iwannadie said:
Not trying to start anything but I just don't see a need to do passes on something that is 15 ft lbs. By all means do what works for you though.
Click to expand...

If I was smart I would stay out of this...

Then again no one has ever accused me of being smart!

I torque more things than I probably should. That said, I honestly never torqued a thermostat housing in my life, on personal or customers' vehicles.

I'm old school, still use a little non-hardening Permatex to hold the thermostat in the housing and a thin smear to hold the gasket in place, then install and run the nuts/bolts down finger tight. I then use a 1/4" drive socket and tighten them, alternating, a little bit at a time. Not exactly rocket science, and I haven't broken anything doing a thermostat housing in 40+ years.

My .02 worth.
 
joe_peters said:
If I was smart I would stay out of this...

Then again no one has ever accused me of being smart!

I torque more things than I probably should. That said, I honestly never torqued a thermostat housing in my life, on personal or customers' vehicles.

I'm old school, still use a little non-hardening Permatex to hold the thermostat in the housing and a thin smear to hold the gasket in place, then install and run the nuts/bolts down finger tight. I then use a 1/4" drive socket and tighten them, alternating, a little bit at a time. Not exactly rocket science, and I haven't broken anything doing a thermostat housing in 40+ years.

My .02 worth.
Click to expand...

People act like I'm crazy for breaking out the torque wrenches for almost everything. If I have the specs(with the internet I always do) I figure might as well do it properly. For things that are tight, wheel lugs being a good example I torque in passes.

For a thermostat housing I do basically what you do, tighten the bolts alternating until snug. Then I hit them with the torque wrench. At 15ft lbs it's only a 1/4-1/2 turn or so past snug. I can't imagine getting the bolt to even turn going from 10, 12, 15.
 
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