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Compression Tester

Should work, I am not too sure I would completely trust the accuracy, though. Good enough for a very general engine health check, I suppose.
 
I'm just wanting it to know if I got a bad gasket or not. Don't really need it to be spot on, just close enough to tell me if somethiing is wrong or not.
 
Around here Autozone rents tools--actually, they loan them, you leave a deposit and they refund it in full when you return the tool. Can't get cheaper than free.
 
Already called Autozone... They don't have a compression tester for rent, and their OBDII scanner is $150 deposit to rent... it gets refunded once it's returned.
 
Bdiddy11 said:
Already called Autozone... They don't have a compression tester for rent, and their OBDII scanner is $150 deposit to rent... it gets refunded once it's returned.
Click to expand...

Did you try Schucks/Oreily/NAPA?

The HF should do fine if you have to buy one.
 
That style of tester works fine on a 4.0. That particular one will probably be good enough. After all, you don't really need a definitive to-the-pound reading so much as a baseline and a way to compare cylinders. As long as the gauge doesn't hang up or give variable readings it should be fine.
 
Be sure to disable the fuel pump and release fuel pressure before you test. Otherwise youll get higher readings from the first cylinder to the last.
 
Couple newbish questions...

What do I need to do to disable the ignition on a 96 auto? I read that it needs to be disabled so I don't get shocked.

Also, to disable the fuel rail/injectors, is there just a fuse I pull for that?

Sorry for the newbish questions, but i've never had to do this before and I can't find anything on the net on how to do those two steps, it says to do the steps, but doesn't say how.

Thanks
 
Bdiddy11 said:
Couple newbish questions...

What do I need to do to disable the ignition on a 96 auto? I read that it needs to be disabled so I don't get shocked.

Also, to disable the fuel rail/injectors, is there just a fuse I pull for that?

Sorry for the newbish questions, but i've never had to do this before and I can't find anything on the net on how to do those two steps, it says to do the steps, but doesn't say how.

Thanks
Click to expand...
If you pull the plug to the coil, that should do both, because I'm pretty sure that the injectors' common positive comes through that plug. Pull the plug to the distributor for redundancy, because you won't get injection (and probably not ignition either) if the cam position sensor is out.
 
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