I have leakage

So I found out I have leaks...not on my person but my '92 XJ!

The front diff. cover is leaking (apparently when you slam rocks constantly it takes a toll). Any tips or tricks when I go to put a new gasket in I should do? (not how to do it, just any upgrades or things of that matter I can easily do) It's a stock D30.

Rear tail shaft seal is leaking...any opinions when I change that?

AND I sort of have a mytery leak...Here's the story. The motor is a 4.0L HO out of a '98 ZJ (vision it).........I changed the power steering box because it was leaking like a civ. So at that point I don't know if I already had this particular leak.

Alright if your on the drivers side looking down the front of the motor, it looks like there is a leak from the left side on the bottom of the water pump near the exit to the lower rad. hose. It is leaking from there down the center of the oil pan and onto the ground however it does not seem to be coolant. There are a lot of lines sitting right there for the trans cooler and crap...but the fluid looks like power steering fluid....I have not investigated it any further, but I will tomorrow....My question is to you all is...Is there any common leak right in that area of the engine compartment and if so how much of a pain is that "common problem" to take care of?

thanks again guys

heres an update for you all.

that mystery leak of course is the water pump. So I'm going to go ahead and replace the water pump on monday (any pumps that flow better than OEM that bolt on easily?), also install a ZJ fan clutch and new serpentine belt. I'm also doing a front diff. service and re-gasketing the front diff. because its leaking. Lastly I'm doing the rear output seal, and of course an oil change and tire rotation.

another question...the rubber fill plug is leaking on my rear diff. Should I replace it or just clean it off and re-install?

Last but not least...Is there any other modifications I can perform to help out the jeep when I take any of this crap apart? ANYTHING to get some sort of gain in any aspect.

I would buy a new pump and stay away from the remans.

I wouldn't put a high-flow pump in a stock system, no real gain.

You could consider eliminating the coolant control valve to the heater core, they were eliminated on later models anyway. Removing the control valve allows coolant to circulate through the heater core all year round and reduces the chance of it clogging up.

I would change the thermostat, 195 degree, best quality you can find.

When you talk about helping the jeep, is it cooling or another problem?

joe_peters said:

I would buy a new pump and stay away from the remans.

I wouldn't put a high-flow pump in a stock system, no real gain.

You could consider eliminating the coolant control valve to the heater core, they were eliminated on later models anyway. Removing the control valve allows coolant to circulate through the heater core all year round and reduces the chance of it clogging up.

I would change the thermostat, 195 degree, best quality you can find.

When you talk about helping the jeep, is it cooling or another problem?

Click to expand...

alrighty, where is the control valve located? Why change the thermostat though? I'm a big believe in Stoich, so I don't like messing around too much w/ the cooling system by dropping the operating temps lower than factory recommended...how low will the 195 drop me to when I'm driving down the highway?

Not necessarily a cooling problem, just anything that I can do to get any gain. I mean I have to remove the fans and crap to do that water pump, that's why I'm doing the fan clutch while everything is apart. I was just wondering if there is anything else I can do while everything is apart.

195 is the stock t-stat temp setting....I like the Mr Gasket balanced t-stat

T-stats do wear out. Stant makes a premium version too. Probably like $6. Don't drop your stock temp. Stick with the 195. You know how important the rear pinion nut torque is, right (for the rear seal replacement)? If not research that one before you do it.

winterbeater said:

T-stats do wear out. Stant makes a premium version too. Probably like $6. Don't drop your stock temp. Stick with the 195. You know how important the rear pinion nut torque is, right (for the rear seal replacement)? If not research that one before you do it.

Click to expand...

I was aware of that...However I'm just doing the output seal FROM the transfer case...I only have to remove the draftshaft correct?


thanks for the heads up on the T-stat guys! I forgot about that Monday detail!

Monday detail?

Oh I forgot to mention - might be too late now, but those Lube Locker diff gaskets are awesome......

ya that's right, Monday detail. Remember it, you will thank me later.

what exactly is this Lube Locker Diff. Gasket you speak of...Is this an actual gasket, or just a fancy way of saying RTV?

x2 on the LL gaskets. Got them on both my diffs and no leaks.

www.lubelocker.com

http://www.lubelocker.com/

I'm still using RTV.