So the DW has finally landed and I want to poly up the front end. My Jeep sits 2" lower from custom springs--been this way for 2 years and haven't had an issue. Removing the stock bushings can be a PIA(did it on my 94), so I'm contemplating buying some shorter, adjustable IRONMAN CAs instead of dealing w/ em and maybe even a shorter adjustable track bar from him too. I got the axle side out(good ole PB) and have removed the cotter pin and nut from the frame side. I've whacked the bar as close to the frame as possible, but it isn't coming out. I'm assuming it's tapered like the steering stabilizer is. I haven't tried the torch yet. Should I go rent Advance's fork kit or will that ruin the joint under the grease boot?
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Problems removing the track bar
- Thread starter gradon
- Start date
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
A pickle fork will ruin the joint.
Put a ratchet tie down strap over the track bar and under the axle. Tighten the strap. Use a BFH and whack the the track bar bracket near the joint.
Put a ratchet tie down strap over the track bar and under the axle. Tighten the strap. Use a BFH and whack the the track bar bracket near the joint.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I just made a little "screw jack" out of a nut&bolt and stuck it on top of the tre.The other end goes up to the top of the bracket.Popped right off with that!
heyhar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA (near Poconos)
I find it easier to remove the bracket from the 'frame' and inner fender (four bolts), put the mount in the vice, with the bar resting on the workbench, remove the castle nut, and hit it with the pickle fork. It's much easier to work the nut off and on, and get the cotter pin right.
muddeprived
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA
This is what we did to get my buddy's trackbar off. Stuck the nut back on and used a socket between the top of the nut and the top of the bracket. Loosened the nut and it pushed the tie rod down and out very easily.
We previously tried pounding for nearly an hour and it wouldn't come out.
The pickle fork did work--whacking on the bar and frame end bracket didn't. I was replacing all the rubber w/ the daystar poly anyways so didn't mind puncturing the boot. Now I replaced the track bar bushing and boot, and 3 of the 4 boots for the tie rod/steering linkage. The right tie rod joint spins when I try to loosen the nut--I tried pb, torch, and pickle pressure and it doesn't help, so it looks like I have to cut it off and buy a new one. I did find that the right stabilizer link was broken, so that's probably the cause of the DW(whole reason I'm polying up the front end in the first place). The right front inside tire tread blew off a month ago and tore up the fender flare--I'm thinking it might've whacked the link.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Use a jack(or something similar) to apply pressure to the tre when you try to remove the nut.As far as the broken link goes,it has NOTHING to do with your DW!
heyhar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA (near Poconos)
And, speaking from experience, I wouldn't rush into polying up too much. Stabilizer bushings and links, OK. About seven years ago, I put Daystar Urethane bushings in the control arms. Felt great for a few weeks, sharp handling, etc. But what I've found, and had techs at Daystar scratching their heads, was that after the bushings settled in, the red plastic was rotating on the inserts, giving too much rotation, and not controlling rotational as they should. The factory bushings have the steel sleeve molded into the rubber, and the sleeve is squeezed in the mounts by the bolts. The sleeves in the urethane bushings, while squeezed in the mounts, are free to rotate within the bushings, offering virtually no 'stiction'. Whack a sharp bump, and they're free to rotate until the shock absorber arrests the movement. I'm not badmouthing the Daystar product, they're of high quality. But, on the roads I typically drive in PA, and the high miles I drive, I ultimately ended up installing new stockers. Lost the sharp handling, but overall, a better compromise.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
I just take the axle end off and then yank down on the bar and they give up after one or 2 hard downward yanks, if it just falls off you have issues with the frame bracket.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
It doesnt matter where you buy from,poly sucks in a 4wd vehicle.Its too rigid thats why its used in performance "street" vehicles!
. . .which is exactly what my 2wd, 2" lower stroker is
The spare I have on there currently is pretty worn, so that too is a culprit of the DW. I'll be buying some tires once the suspension has been renewed(Yoko no longer makes the 255/60/15, so I have to make a brand decision).
The spare I have on there currently is pretty worn, so that too is a culprit of the DW. I'll be buying some tires once the suspension has been renewed(Yoko no longer makes the 255/60/15, so I have to make a brand decision).
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