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Post lift concerns/issues

boostamante

boostamante

NAXJA Forum User
Location
los angeles california
So i noticed that my springs bow out toward the front of the car which in turn makes for the sway bars to rub and not be in the right position. Would this be because of the LCA's being longer than needed? I'm running Drop brackets and what looks to be rancho LCA's. Im also using that metal shim along with the shim alingment dealy that positions the LCA's in the center of the elongated bolt whole. should i remove the shim or should i just remove that shim center dealy and place the LCA as far back as they can go? thats the only thing i can think of that would cause the axle to be so far out that it makes the springs bow out the way they do.
 
How about your sway bar links, did you lengthen them or install adjustable sway bar disconnects ? The sway bar should be pointed up at a 10-15* angle which usually keeps it away from the springs.
 
Tim_MN said:
How about your sway bar links, did you lengthen them or install adjustable sway bar disconnects ? The sway bar should be pointed up at a 10-15* angle which usually keeps it away from the springs.
Click to expand...


thing is i noticed they were stuck on the springs and noticed them bowing out towards the front of the jeep. Maybe i should run without them :p

would the springs bowing like that ride weird or unstable?
 
You should always have the sway bar installed and connected when you are on pavement.

It is normal for a lifted Cherokee to have the coil springs bow forward or to come in contact with the bump stop tubes. The lift and and longer control arms push the axle forward and down so the lower coil spring mounts are tilted compared to stock. Adjustable control arms will help adjust the alignment/pinion angles/spring mount tilt.

Make or buy longer sway bar end links.
 
Tim_MN said:
You should always have the sway bar installed and connected when you are on pavement.

It is normal for a lifted Cherokee to have the coil springs bow forward or to come in contact with the bump stop tubes. The lift and and longer control arms push the axle forward and down so the lower coil spring mounts are tilted compared to stock. Adjustable control arms will help adjust the alignment/pinion angles/spring mount tilt.

Make or buy longer sway bar end links.
Click to expand...


i have JKS quick disconnects. i dont like running without them so ill have to fix it. im thinking i need to remove that1/4 thick shim in the control arm.
 
if the springs are bowing forward, meaning the center of the spring is further out than the top & bottom, that would mean the axle is not forward enough, meaning the LCA's are too short. If the bottom of the spring is out more than the top, then your axle is too far forward and the LCA's are too long.

I run a long arm setup with the axle about 1" further out than stock and had to trim the sway bar links due to clearance issues. I don't run a front sway bar though, so I just cut them off.
 
More likely youve altered your castor resulting in the lower spring perch being "rolled" forward.
 
jeepster_259 said:
if the springs are bowing forward, meaning the center of the spring is further out than the top & bottom, that would mean the axle is not forward enough, meaning the LCA's are too short. If the bottom of the spring is out more than the top, then your axle is too far forward and the LCA's are too long.

I run a long arm setup with the axle about 1" further out than stock and had to trim the sway bar links due to clearance issues. I don't run a front sway bar though, so I just cut them off.
Click to expand...

RCP Phx said:
More likely youve altered your castor resulting in the lower spring perch being "rolled" forward.
Click to expand...
I guess i need to fiddle with the LCA's setting. the UCA's are stock and the LCA's are Rancho's about 1/4 longer than stock. lift is im guessing at 5.5 to 6"s

im guesstimating caus the front springs are fab techs and im running a 2" spacer.
 
Well hell,thats why!You need drop brackets.
 
RCP Phx said:
Well hell,thats why!You need drop brackets.
Click to expand...

theNAST1EST said:
That, or lose the spacer. You'll be made in the shade.
Click to expand...

well, i am running drop brackets. dont knwo if i mentioned that earlier. HMMM, i was messing with the steering and found that i need a drop pitman arm. the draglink angle is effed. Stupid heep.

J.E.E.P
 
Unless youve altered the steering/trackbar mount, you probably dont want or need a drop pitman arm.
 
RCP Phx said:
Unless youve altered the steering/trackbar mount, you probably dont want or need a drop pitman arm.
Click to expand...
track bar is a RE 1660 i will post some pics of my rig tomorrow to better show what my issues are.

thanks for all the replies guys.
 
how much lift are you running? if you are running anything under a 4.5 and are running drop brackets with the longer LCA it will push the axle forward and changes your caster, which will make the sway bar hit the coil spring. the other thing you may want to look at, is I believe the v8 zj sway bar is a bit shorter and a direct bolt in. (guys please correct me if im wrong):cool:
 
jonesinxj said:
how much lift are you running? if you are running anything under a 4.5 and are running drop brackets with the longer LCA it will push the axle forward and changes your caster, which will make the sway bar hit the coil spring. the other thing you may want to look at, is I believe the v8 zj sway bar is a bit shorter and a direct bolt in. (guys please correct me if im wrong):cool:
Click to expand...


Well considering i have what appears to be a 4" spring and a 2" spacer im guesstimating 6" of lift. Might even be a 3.5" spring and a 1.75" spacer. either way im definatley above the 4.5" lift mark. Guess i could play around wiht the stock arms and see what it does. I could also remove the ALignment shims and loosend the bolts so i can get the axle to sit right as the LCA bolt hole on the body is elongated and would give me room for adjusting. the UCA's are stock and i cant adjust anything on that end. Pics to come when i get off work.
 
So i took some pics but the ones that really showed the problem dont work... GRRR! any way, here are the ones that did

DSC_0042.jpg

DSC_0044.jpg

DSC_0045.jpg

DSC_0047.jpg

DSC_0048.jpg


I even tried using the stock LCA's in hopes of fixing the problem and it still bows out on the passenger side. the driver is fine. IM beginning to think that the drop brackets are crooked on the passenger side. Is this possible?

The only thing now that i can think will remedy thi would be Adjustable arms on top and bottom.

Also, my draglink is way to close to the damper bolt. so much that it literaly hits it. Im guessing i need a drop pitman arm. More money to spend... awesome!

here is a pic of the old BB lift to show how the suspensio didnt give me grief nor did the steering.

DSC_0099.jpg
 
What you need to do is lose the trackbar relocation bracket,holly crap theres no need youve got a RE 1660 bar&bracket!You dont need a drop arm,why pay money for what you already have to make it right!
 
Julio, move the lower arms as far back as you can. Take out the adjuster things and push them all the way back. That should take care of the tie rod bolt hitting on the damper bracket. You may have to get adjustable upper arms to be able to set the caster correctly. I can make them but it may be just as cheap for you to get the adjustable ones from e-fence....er..I mean e-bay.
 
RCP Phx said:
What you need to do is lose the trackbar relocation bracket,holly crap theres no need youve got a RE 1660 bar&bracket!You dont need a drop arm,why pay money for what you already have to make it right!
Click to expand...


I know, its just that for some reason the bracket has been tack welded to the axle and i didnt think it would matter much. guess maybe thats why the axle sits a little off on that side... ill take a angle grinder to it today after work.
 
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