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explorer 8.8

POLAR_JEEP_04

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ohio
im looking for a ford 8.8 to swap into my XJ i was wondering what model explorer has the disc brakes, 4.10's, and L.S. so i can call some yards and get the right one
 
well you can check out car-part.com for yards in your area with the axle your looking for
I used it just last week looking for an 8.8... however the asking prive was way too high
from what I have read, from 94 and up has the disk brakes, as for the 4.10 and LSD... that depends on the truck itself, which options it had and such.
searching may have a few more answers on here, but that website will help you out for sure.
 
jesus $60????
I got a quote for a d30 I wanted to get instead of installing new 4.10 I figured why not just get a d30 out of a 2.5l and an 8.8 and save some time and money... just for the d30 the guy wanted $750... I just about fell over, said thanks very much and hung up... if you find another one send it my way. wow
 
It can be very costly or cheap for an 8.8. I was going the same route you are thining ie the 2.5l dana 30, got a 8.8 with 4.10s and limited slip, then decided I needed 4.56s and instead of installing gears twice, I did the 8.8 as well and put an arb in too, so dont go the route I did, spending $800 Canadian for an 8.8 loaded when I could have gotten one for $300 and rebuilt it like I did anyways
 
96 and up explorer with a v-6 should get you the 4.10's.
As stated earlier use car-part.com.
I found mine on there with disc brakes, lsd and 4.10's for $300.
Just like most others on here after I bought it I decided to run lower gears.
 
If its got LSD, when you spin one shaft the other spins the same way, right?

I am going to get one tomrorow. SO I will look at them all before I start to rip it apart...
 
yeah lsd spins the same waywhen you spin it. look at the tag on one of the diff cover bolts. one with 4.10 and a lsd will have "4L10" on the tag the L means lsd. if it has no lsd it will just have "410" on it this applys to the other ratios as well.


justin
 
From what I have read hear on NAXJA 96 and up explorers are what you need to look for.

When I installed my 8.8 last year I paid this much to do the swap.

axle:$95.00 out of a 98 explorer
new pads, rotors, and rubber brake line:$100.00
M.O.R.E anti-wrap spring perches:$55.00

It was an easy swap and am very happy with the results. no more broken rear axles.
Just make sure you move your shock mounts flush with the axletube. I used my originals cut down and work great. 8.8 axles can be found cheap, just look around.HTH

Kim.
 
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Hey, When diong this swap, what u jount is needed and is a different proportoining valve needed?

Dave
 
same ujoint, you just need to get yourself the spicer adaptor that will allow you to mount to the flange (make sure you get two snap rings while you are getting it) costs about 60 bucks. So far after a week on my new 8.8 I am not going to worry about the proportioning valve. I have read that you can either remove the orring/cup from the inside of your, or remove the guts of yours and swap in the guts of a ZJs or swap in a ZJs proportioning valve. I am thinking about also getting rid of it altogether and running lines straight to the front calipers and an adjustable to the back.

Basically My brakes are the same if not better than my ZJ swap I did to my Dana 35 years ago, so I am not going to worry about them. YOu could so the mod to the valve when you do the swap, but then if theres a problem with the brakes you cant be sure its the valve mod or the new .8.8 brakes so I Would wait.
 
An 8.8 is like any other rear end , if you build it like it needs to be you will have several hundred dollars invested but you will have a good axle. I paid 200.00 for an 8.8 with rear discs , looked like new. New perches and drive shaft adapter, new locker , and new 4.56 gears and I have over a thousand in it. But I like it and it takes the abuse , keep in mind I run 33 to 35" tires, and have never had a problem out of an 8.8 and this is my third swap. By the way , My last 8.8 came out of a 2001 explorer and had the discs and the limited slip.
 
I re-used the XJ's spring plates, worked great for me. I also didnt modify anything on my brakes and thy stop my 35's very well. The factory LS is kinda junk but I guess better than nothing also while you have the axle out and begin welding on the new perches and shock mounts weld the tubes to the housing, I didnt do this when I had the chance. Good luck.
 
What about the e-brake setup howda ya do that? Another thing are the hydraulic lines the same size and fittings?
 
For brakes you will need another drivers side line to put on the passenger side (you will know what I mean when you look at it). Pick up 2 brake lines you will have to measure out what size will come close and a bender to do the brakes. I used a brake line off of a Dakota for my rear brake line and it works great. As for the e-brakes you will want to find a grand cherokee and pull the e brake parts from that to work with the 8.8. I pulled the bracket and cables, the bracket I mounted above the drive shaft and ran the brake lines down to each side.
 
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Perches020.jpg


Here is a picture of when I was getting it set up. You can see the passenger side has a drivers side line on it. The drivers side needs a short hard line into the brake line coming down from the jeep, and the passengers side will need a longer one. In the picture I had a RE brake line that was used for a while until I figured out that it was to short and replaced it with a Dakota line.
 
Okay I went out side and snapped a few more pictures. Dang things don't look as pretty as they used to.
Drivers side
Jan.jpg

Passenger side
Jan-2.jpg

And the E-brakes from the Grand Cherokee
Jan-1.jpg

Hope it helps.

Another thing that is common to mess up it putting the calipers on upside down. Make sure the bleeder valve is on the top, if not then you will have problems bleeding the brakes.
 
Daym that looks familier, well mostly. I also did the u-bolt eliminators, but have the full truss form them also, then I also have the pro-crap 35's. Also looks as though you went and did the same through the floor to a shock bridge and mounted the shocks on top of the spring plate.

I highly recommend the truss and the u-bolt elim. from TNT. I have swapped springs out like 5 times now and never took more then about 25 min and when the packs got thicker just bought some new grade 8 bolts at ace hardware, didnt have to hunt down new u-bolts.

jwtrapper said:
Okay I went out side and snapped a few more pictures. Dang things don't look as pretty as they used to.
Drivers side
Jan.jpg

Passenger side
Jan-2.jpg

And the E-brakes from the Grand Cherokee
Jan-1.jpg

Hope it helps.

Another thing that is common to mess up it putting the calipers on upside down. Make sure the bleeder valve is on the top, if not then you will have problems bleeding the brakes.
 
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