New clutch but no pedal. exhausted the search. Please need help for DD

OK, I have searched and searched and searched. I could not find an exact trhead to my problem. Most of what I found was for internal slave cylinders.


I have a 2000 XJ 2wd, 2.5L, AX5, external slave cylinder OEM.

What had happened was the throughout bearing blew up and pedal went to floor. I figured R&R the entire clutch area since it has 127xxx and we bought it at 82xxx. Pedal was stiff and disengaged at upper end of peddle travel.

I just replaced the entire clutch assembly. Throughout bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel and pilot bearing.

installed everything back and problem. Half of pedal travel is play and only engages/disengages just above floor about 2"

The only thing odd that happened was when i went to install the slave cyl I missed the cup it mates up with and when i pulled it back out the edge of the slave rod caught the edge of the bellhousing and pulled out the slave rod another inch. Nothing came out I just pushed the rod back in till it stopped and figures all is well.

No fluid anywhere around the entire hydra clutch system. 1 drip of fluid at mating surface of slave to bellhousing but wiped off figure its the excess oil from valve cover.

Any quick ideas?

have you tried bleeding the system? sounds like you might have a little air in the system.

zedpapa

Old slave and MC?

It is possible that when the clutch failed it allowed the piston in the slave or MC to travel too far and screw up the seals.

If you put in a new slave and MC, did you bleed it completely??

Still original MC and SC system. As much as i can see it looks like its a sealed system. That is also what i came to the conclusion on from the forums.

UGH!!! New MC/SC assembly is $200 WTF! It has got to be bleedable.

I would be shocked and appalled if there is no place to bleed it. I have been wrong before, and I will be wrong again.

Well I just hopped under there again, I cannot find a way to bleed the thing at all.

Curious. NAPA sells the MC, and the slave, and a pre-filled MC/slave assembly. There has to be a method to the madness.

BTW, NAPA price on the assembly is $169.

I don't have the FSM for the 2000, so head to the nearest NAPA and have them show you the parts.

Well, this has all been a mute point anyways. I forgot a 2 dollar part. Th Clutch fork return spring. I have to go thru and pull the whole thing out all over again.

This has not been fun due to having a bum arm for the last month so this project has taken a while.

Will hopefully post back sonne with results after i fix this stupid move.

If you can not find the bleeder on the external slave for the ax-15 trans let me know and I will take a pic of it for you. You have to be able to bleed the system or you are screwed. I bought a replacment slave from napa and actually had to drill out the bleeder hole because it was closed up with plastic under the set screw.

Its an AX5 but should be close enough, Either way can you take a shot of post it so i am not pulling hair anymore?

Believe it or not, the 2000 FSM tells you that the clutch hydraulic system is not servicable. If anything is up, your are supposed to replace the whole thing including master cyl, slave cyl and line between. Although the master cyl cover comes off, it is described as a "sealed system". Bleeding it is not included in the FSM. Hopefully, the spring fixes you. I will not comment further on this wonderful engineering progress, except to note that American automotive engineers have no interest in manual transmissions.

If its the same as the one in my '86 i can help you out.

86 I belaive is way different. either the bellhousing has to come back off before I even get back to the problem with the pedal.


I saw a link on somewhere for the complete clutch hydro system. Anyone know where that is?

ramjet308 said:

86 I belaive is way different. either the bellhousing has to come back off before I even get back to the problem with the pedal.


I saw a link on somewhere for the complete clutch hydro system. Anyone know where that is?

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Yeah I thought it was. I relaced mine about a week ago and bled it right and it still wouldnt work. turned out where the pedal connects to the bar the tack weld had cracked allowing the pedal to bend and not let it have a full range of motion.