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axles?

9

96TNXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kingsport TN
ok guys I have been reading and reading and reading and this is what I have. I want my jeep to be able to drive on the street every so often and I want at least a 35+ tire. Right now Im at 6.5 and 33 on 3.55 gears. I am thinking I want 4.88 or 4.56 gears. The axles I have is the D30 and C 8.25 (I dont know if its 27 or 29 I think 29 but havent looked) So my question is do I buy axles that have the gears I want and are trussed or regear the axles I have for 4.56 and do disc brake conv. on the rear. What ever I decide will be final and I dont want to build the axles I would rather get them from someone that is getting out of wheeling or going 1 ton. TIA I hope I gave all the needed info
 
96TNXJ said:
What ever I decide will be final and I dont want to build the axles I would rather get them from someone that is getting out of wheeling or going 1 ton.
Click to expand...
it sounds like u already made up your mind...its better to build them yourself...:cheers:
 
If you can find some already built axels at a good price then i would deff go for it. On average you will spend 1200-1500 for a shop to put in their gears, or you can purchase your own gears and still end up spending gears+labor. Also their is a chance that you will find a better combo such as a d30/d44 etc.
 
I would preffer to find a like a D44/9inch combo locked and geared ready to go but I was wanting to know what combo you all recomend and what you think of the 4.88 gear to deep? not deep enough??
 
Either way you are going to spend some money. Unless you upgrade the front with alloys my opinion is you are wasting money on a 30/8.25 combo. I doubt you will find a set of 44/9" geared to 4.88.(good choice IMO) The benefit of new axles is the strenght they will offer so you don't have to upgrade shafts right away.
I was posed with the same issue several years ago and went with axles. I run 44f/r with 4.88s, spooled rear and lock right with alloys up front. I LOVE them!!! Now of course I want 14 bolt front and rear but that's another topic.
Good luck,
Stukboy
 
So the axles that I choice arent a big deal? lol and you thing the stockers arent work messing with i know I dont want to put a ton of money in my D30 anyways lol
 
If you plan for 35" + down the line I suggest you find a pair of D44's and build them for that kind of use. The better you build it now, the less failure you will have in the future. If you are gonna be rock crawling thenI suggest D60 front, Corp 14 bolt rear.
 
You want 35+ and are open to 1 ton - then you better get some full widths now, only because if you are thinking about them, you know you will end up with them eventually anyway. 4.88 is not too deep - a lot of people run it.
I would look for the 9"/44 from a fullsize, at least. If you see yourself with 38-42s one day, get what you need now. 14b/D60(these are boat anchors until you are 37"+ or so, by the way) I would bet there are a good number of both combos on the selling-the-crawler market, but most will require a rework of the bracketry at least. Most will probably not be coming off another XJ.

The 44 is typically called good up to 37 max. If you think 37 is as big as you will ever go, 9/44 is great. Point is, shoot for where you want to be, and not for what will be a good-enough upgrade. You'll save in the end.
 
Thats what Im shooting for as far as shooting where I want to be I dont think I will go bigger then a 37 and do you guys recomend full width? I do alot of rock crawling and as little mud as possible
 
I went 4.88s and never looked back.

~Scott
 
I just picked up a rig with 36-37" meats and 5.13s with an alloy D44/D60.
Drove it 250 miles to get it home... at low speeds, you have to give it more gas than you're used to, and you gotta watch the rpms at the high speeds, but I got it up to 70 on the speedo and stayed around 2000 rpm (it was faster than 70, cause the speedo reads x% lower than normal, because the tires are x% larger than stock tires).
So for road driving, 4.88s should be ok.
 
mcantar18c said:
I just picked up a rig with 36-37" meats and 5.13s with an alloy D44/D60.
Drove it 250 miles to get it home... at low speeds, you have to give it more gas than you're used to, and you gotta watch the rpms at the high speeds, but I got it up to 70 on the speedo and stayed around 2000 rpm (it was faster than 70, cause the speedo reads x% lower than normal, because the tires are x% larger than stock tires).
So for road driving, 4.88s should be ok.
Click to expand...
2k rpms at 70+ mph is nothing to worry about. 4.88s and 35s is a lot closer to stock then 33s and 3.55s, so you will most likely have to give it less gas around town. :lecture:




Are you guys really recommending one tons to a guy who currently has a Jeep on 33s and stock axles? :doh:
 
Starboard M said:
Are you guys really recommending one tons to a guy who currently has a Jeep on 33s and stock axles? :doh:
Click to expand...

I guess they think I should go big or go home (as a guy in my class says lol)
Thanks everyone I think Ill keep my eyes out for a D44/9 combo what lockers do you guys think would be best if I wanted to every now and then drive it on the road? One guy told me that he wished he would have got a selectible because he is tired of changing his U joints. Any thoughts on that?
 
Starboard M said:
2k rpms at 70+ mph is nothing to worry about. 4.88s and 35s is a lot closer to stock then 33s and 3.55s, so you will most likely have to give it less gas around town. :lecture:




Are you guys really recommending one tons to a guy who currently has a Jeep on 33s and stock axles? :doh:
Click to expand...
Yes, because he says he will be doing alot of rock crawling and he wants reliability.
 
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