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armored brake line

ehall

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Southern Maryland
Short story long, I was trying to bleed the rears and the bleeder valves snapped. I bought new cylinders and went to replace them, but the lines on the axle tube snapped. Man I love old junk... I called all the local parts shops and none of them have the armored line with the coil around it. Dealership says they are discontinued and not available.

I don't want to use bare steel lines on the axle so I guess I need to buy something from a specialty shop? Any good sources for this stuff?
 
Classic tube has them.
 
You can always slide the coiled spring off and slide it onto the new section of tube. If you buy a pre-flared section of new tube, you'd have to borrow or buy a flaring kit to redo the end.
 
I just replaced all my hard lines on my back axle three weeks ago. I just went to bumper to bumper after getting the size from the dealership. It's standard 3/16 tubing. Both bumper to bumper and NAPA had plain brake line, the stuff with the spring and some new fancy unkinkable hand bend stuff.

As sexy as the hand bendable stuff was, I just stuck with the spring wound plain line. It was about seven bucks Canadian for 60 inches of the stuff, preflared at each end.

Not that it mattered, I just cut what I needed and bent it into shape. They should have all the fittings for that same line too, for well under a dollar apiece. The Stealership wanted over nine bucks for a brass coupling Bumper to Bmper wanted seventy Cents for.

Just keep looking, it's pretty standard stuff.
 
I actually HATE that armored line, up here in the rust belt it's a curse. The damn coil wicks salty water in and holds it against the line, leaving it to rust much faster. I replaced all of mine with standard hard 3/16" line and just made sure to keep it on the top/back of the axle, I figure if I run into something backing up hard enough to crush a steel line, it would have crushed a steel line with a little 18ga steel wire twisted around it too.
 
Just buy long lengths and cut what you need. Don't forget to buy a bouble flaring tool kit, or rent one. You will almost certainly screw up at least one of the first ones you try to flare.

I also kept the really twisty bits as seperate pieces, then used a union to mate them to the nice long straight piece on the top of the axle. Yeah it's more work and yeah it gives me more places to leak, but if you do it properly, they shouldn't ever leak. Just check them for a while after you install them.

Kastein makes a good point about the wire though. I live in the Canadian rust belt and had i had more money, I would have tried out that other nylon coated stuff. Not that it's pricey, but I'm a student...
 
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