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Front bumpstops mounting?

T

TJDualsport

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fullerton
How are you guys mounting them? several guys i know tried the inside the coil mount with no luck. the spring makes lots of contact while cycling. :dunno:
 
Most replace the stock bump completely,same location. Whether a Light Racing, Acos Pro, or 2"-4" air bump w/can, their usually done this way. Problem might be Y-links rotating the axle through the travel.
 
Mine was mounted inside the spring, it never hit when it was flexed. I also ran a 3" RE bump pad at the bottom so I could move the bump up and out of the way of the spring more.

l_974e504c82da4d8c94585b58bcad44b7.jpg
 
crazyjim said:
What he said... Although I wouldn't recommend running anything larger than a 2" bump, personally. A lot of guys run 4" though, I just don't see 4" being all that good of an idea, you're almost riding on bump at that point.
Click to expand...
hmm yea, is there any benefits of running it like this over having it only a 2" with more of a gap between
 
Ryan93 said:
hmm yea, is there any benefits of running it like this over having it only a 2" with more of a gap between
Click to expand...
Not really, a 4" is going to give you a more progressive bump, but when you've only got maybe 5" of uptravel it's going to do more harm than good IMO. You have to think of an air bump as another spring not another shock. Because they don't have any rebound dampening at all, only compression. So what's going to happen is you're only going to have the correct valving for 1" from ride height, the rest of the way you're going to have gnarly rebound.

I'm sticking to a 2" front bump when I do my coilovers up front, and I may not even run an air bump in the rear, just to keep it from bucking. Air bumps are nice for the fronts of our Jeeps because they'll pop the front end up over stuff, but not something you want in the back, but again I'll have to see.
 
bumpstop theory...~!

its good to see someone discussing the drawbacks of a full 4" STROKE bumpstop...
IIRC, someone sells 2"x2" bumpstops pre-limited, was it downsouthmotorsports?

anyone done the t&j mounting prior to a cage? looking to make the jump forward myself.
 
you also have to play with PSI on the bumps too. Im glad to see its possible to put bumps in the coil bucket without making coil contact. I was looking at the jounce bumps and really like how they easily mount. just $$$$$ hahaha
im gonna do bumps in the rear first, and then save up for the front.
in the vid link I jumped hodge road and you can see how my rear plops a little harsh compared to the front. still a VERY nice landing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iK7IeJkZHRs
 
Last edited:
FWIW Every Jeepspeed runs the hydraulic bumpstop inside the coil because the rules read they have to be in the stock location.

Rear hydraulic bumpstops are overrated. If you do run them, run a lower pressure than the front or the back will kick. Looking at your video, it looks like you need more spring rate and compression valving in the back. A hydraulic bumpstop is only going to be a bandaid and not really improving your suspension.

Chris
 
crazyjim said:
Not really, a 4" is going to give you a more progressive bump, but when you've only got maybe 5" of uptravel it's going to do more harm than good IMO. You have to think of an air bump as another spring not another shock. Because they don't have any rebound dampening at all, only compression. So what's going to happen is you're only going to have the correct valving for 1" from ride height, the rest of the way you're going to have gnarly rebound.
Click to expand...


There are plenty of people who run their rigs pretty much sitting on the bumps. This helps control body roll among other things. That said, the suspension was designed and setup to be like that from the beginning.

I would think to pull that off you would almost 100% need bypass shocks to be able to tune that portion of the shock during rebound.
 
crazyjim said:
Not really, a 4" is going to give you a more progressive bump, but when you've only got maybe 5" of uptravel it's going to do more harm than good IMO. You have to think of an air bump as another spring not another shock. Because they don't have any rebound dampening at all, only compression. So what's going to happen is you're only going to have the correct valving for 1" from ride height, the rest of the way you're going to have gnarly rebound.

I'm sticking to a 2" front bump when I do my coilovers up front, and I may not even run an air bump in the rear, just to keep it from bucking. Air bumps are nice for the fronts of our Jeeps because they'll pop the front end up over stuff, but not something you want in the back, but again I'll have to see.
Click to expand...

x2 guys.... I ran both a 2" and a 4" and I didnt like the fact that I was on the 4" within an inch of travel every time. To Jims point, most times, you have about 5 inches of uptravel.

With the ACOS, you really feel them coming in to play when you get more in to the travel...
 
I know with my Fox 2.0 bumpstops I just added a 2" spacer to convert them from 4" stroke to 2". I would guess Bilstein, SAW and others work the same way.
 
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