Please help ASAP. NSS removal

I'm pretty sure God hates me, as anything I try to do fails miserably.

Im trying to take the NSS off of my 97 Cherokee, 4L with AW4. I just bought it two weeks ago and it had a few CELs. One of course being the dreaded P0705.

Anyways, Im trying to take off the NSS just like the two web pages I've seen do it, and the prying technique is NOT working. The nut is coming right off the threads and im freaking out.

Is there ANY possible other way to get this thing off?

Im completely out of ideas. The prying space is so little under there. Anyone? Im about to shoot myself.

Hang on dude, suicide is not the answer.

Make sure that the adjusting bolt(12mm at the top front of the NSS) is all the way off and out, and that the jamb nut is all the way out and off.

You need something that is bent in a 90* with about 1 1/2 - 2" prying leverage at the end. I took an old screw driver and heated it up and bent it to a 90* and it works great. Just dont force it too hard those NSS's are pricey. When it starts going it will get easier. You said something about the nut coming off, it should come off all the way as well as the retainer and the dust shield.

The worst part off this job is the 2 or 3 zip ties that you are going to have to cut to remove the NSS from the vehicle. I use a long pair of scissors for this and be careful not to cut any wires.

dont jack with it...when you want to start it just put it in N and turn it over...at least thats what i do with my trailor heep

Yeah, i'm in the same boat with god, or maybe the devil just has it in for me! Had the same problem with my 96'. After PB blaster, it started to move a little more. I also threaded the nut back on pretty good to do it, especially if it just slides off the last threads. I also used a tool for door panels, and a rubber mallet to tap it back on when it sticks. Just keep moving it forward and back until it finally comes off. Mine was right at the end of the shaft when it broke, bummer! I bought a new one but wanted the old one to clean up as a future replacement.
It sure isn't as easy as some of the websites make it seem! But you can do it, after grating some nerves........

xjtrailrider said:

Hang on dude, suicide is not the answer.

Click to expand...

No it definitely isnt! I feel al ittle better because I got my new alternator in (but it didnt even need to be replaced, just a new 165A unit).

The Nut keeps sliding off the threads no matter how well/ far I thread it in. Of course the more I do that, the less useful those threads will become. And theres no other spot to pry from. Its a PITA.

Thanks for the help guys.

I don't recall the threads, but do a search for my recent posts on the subject (I've covered this a half-dozen times or more in the last couple of months.)

You do not pry on the collet nut - I don't care what anyone sez, that's gagging for wrecking the collet threads. I've given instructions for how to pry against the switch without destroying it, that's what you want to look for.

Does it work? It's how I've been removing NSS units for several years now...

5-90

thanks 5-90. Im sure if I was persistant Id try the bar stock method. But, I just cant do this anymore. Im gonna take it in and get a new TPS while im at it.

Preciate the help

If you're going to replace the NSS outright, I'd like to talk to you about getting the old unit - I've got a couple of projects in mind, and I'm usually looking for "sacrificial victims" to try to bring them off...

5-90

Certainly, Ill ask whoever does the work to save the unit for me. Does completely broken or cracked matter?

Not as long as you can turn up all the broken bits.

As long as I can stick the thing back together and take measurements, it should be fine.

5-90

Like 5-90 says, I never pry against the nut, I remove it all together and use the bent screwdriver to gently lever it out by putting the tool between the transmission case and the backside of the NSS. Do not use force! Work it out, then push it back in and repeat untill its all the way out.

I'm not sure why the shaft jamb nut is needed since the adjuster lock bolt would hold the whole unit in place?