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Pan saver removal?

WaXJ_Skier

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bellevue, Wa
When when I bought my jeep a couple years ago it had a pan saver instead of a plug in the oil pan. I have never had any issues with it and done plenty of oil changes. This time it will not thread shut. I guess I have two possible choices.

1. figure out how to remove the pan saver and install a new one

or

2. Replace the oil pan.

#2 is going to be a PITA, so does anybody have any clue how to remove a pan saver?
 
By "Pan Saver", I presume you're referring to an oversize, thread-forming plug?

Most sizes are available in at least two over sizes, with some of the very common ones in three (for instance, the 1/2" plug used on a lot of Chevvy/Ford/Dodge is available OS/2xOS/3xOS.) So, you can see if there's another "step up" to solve your little headache.

Ideally, just replace the sump (so you don't have this problem again.) You could also uses a Screw Thread Insert (like a Heli-Coil) to retap the threads in the bung back down to the original size. Probably costs about the same as a salvaged oil sump, but you won't have to remove it (the bung is mild steel, so if anything makes it past the pickup screen, the hardened gerotor assembly in the pump will pulverise it and it will get caught in the oil filter. Fill the flutes of the tap with grease to catch any more chips. If you drill slowly and keep the flutes in the drill bit packed with grease, you'll catch most of those chips as well.)

Use RTV to seal the screw thread insert against the bung in the pan, so you don't "drip around" the plug.

As far as pulling out the one you now have, find a thin flat stiff something (a stiffy putty knife is useful here. Or a 1/8" or 3/16" "cabinet" type flat screwdriver) and insert it in between the head/flange on the screw and the surface of oil sump pan. While you're unscrewing the screw, twist the other tool to force a space in between it and the screw head - you can manipulate the tool to give you more room as you get more space. I've used this quite often for most stripped fasteners I can get access to, and it works rather well.

Since the plug is usually a thread-forming plug (if not a thread-cutting plug!) it's probably worn through the threads it made from being gradually cross-threaded. This is why I don't like using thread-forming plugs.

If you have the silly version (rubber sleeve around a steel threaded mandrel,) unscrew the wing nut as far as it will go, but keep the threads fully engaged on the thing. Grab a punch, and give the end of the screw a fair whack with a hammer via the punch. This should pop the mandrel out of the rubber bit, releasing the rubber to pull out. This works most of the time (for me, anyhow.)
 
My plans for the weekend opened up a little so I'm just going to install a new pan and take care of the rear main while I'm at it.
 
Sounds like a plan - make sure you get an oil pan gasket.

also, anyone have opinions on those quick release plugs you can get? They have a spring loaded ball bearing valve inside them like a garden hose attachment clip, you simply remove the dirt cap and snap a special line with about 8" of vinyl hose on it to drain the oil. It even keeps it from splashing everywhere. My dad swears by them, but I'm not sure if they let the oil fully drain because of the extra length of the plug still inside.
 
Sounds like a plan - make sure you get an oil pan gasket.

also, anyone have opinions on those quick release plugs you can get? They have a spring loaded ball bearing valve inside them like a garden hose attachment clip, you simply remove the dirt cap and snap a special line with about 8" of vinyl hose on it to drain the oil. It even keeps it from splashing everywhere. My dad swears by them, but I'm not sure if they let the oil fully drain because of the extra length of the plug still inside.


they also stick out a bit and make a great target for a rock.
 
I searched on how to remove a pan saver and ended up here. none of the answers here answered how to remove it, so, even though this thread is way long in the tooth, I'll answer the question here since this page was near the top of Google when I searched for how to remove one this afternoon.

A pan saver is a nefarious device created, not to save your pan, but to allow the oil change place to seal your pan when they screw up putting the plug back in. (Hint: change your own oil once someone says they had to install a pan saver...). Knowing what your adversary looks like helps in removing it. This image was all I needed in order to get the bugger out of my life:

280026_Universal.jpg


As you can see, they are a lot like the "toggle bolt" wall anchors. When the oaf under your car drops or cross-threads your plug while changing your oil, s/he can resort to one of these diabolical devices to keep all the oil they're about to pump in from immediately running all over the floor. They are installed by folding the barbed toggle against the threaded rod, shoving the slightly-too-large-for-the-opening toggle into the pan through the drain hole, pulling to deploy the toggle, then screwing the cap end against the pan to seal the drain. There's a big gob of rubber between the cap and the toggle that usually gets shredded by nearby engine parts to prevent it from actually doing what it is intended for. Most of the time, when you remove the things, the hole is undamaged, and you're left wondering why the a$$hole put the damned thing in in the first place. (Hint: usually because they dropped yours and were too lazy to retrieve it.)

Removing the cap and threaded rod is pretty straightforward: just unscrew it. Depending on where your drain is in relation to pan floor, you may have to pull back on the cap while turning it to keep the toggle from spinning. Careful! Don't bend the threaded rod by prying against the cap end!

A note to the uninitiated: unless you suctioned the oil from the pan through the fill or dip tube, the oil will be leaving your pan as you unscrew this thing. Best to be prepared...

The end of the threaded rod typically has a crimp to prevent you from accidentally separating the two if you don't want to. If you can see past the cap, once you've unscrewed it until it gets tough to turn, you may be able to insert a thin rod to fold the toggle back against the threaded rod, and then pull the whole shebang out of the hole. If you can't, and your pan is aluminum or some other nonferrous (magnet won't stick) material, you can keep unscrewing the thing until the two halves separate, then use a strong magnet to guide the toggle toward the drain from beneath. Then use the "magnet on a screwdriver" trick - put a strong magnet on the shaft of a screwdriver, then insert the screwdriver blade into the hole - to maneuver one end of the toggle out of the drain hole to where you can get a grip on it. A firm grip on a pair of needlenose pliers (or a needlenose vicegrip), and a manly tug, and the thing will soon be in the palm of your hand. (I just finished using this particular technique on my son's 2003 Ford Escape. Hole wasn't stripped. Beware the quick oil change shops...) :cool:

Be sure you have a replacement drain plug (or another pan saver - just in case!) before going about this.

So there ya have it. If you're searching for how to remove one of those nefarious pan savers, and this thread pops up, you now have fresh, first-hand knowledge in how to do the necessary deed.

Cheers!
 
........anyone have opinions on those quick release plugs you can get? They have a spring loaded ball bearing valve inside them like a garden hose attachment clip, you simply remove the dirt cap and snap a special line with about 8" of vinyl hose on it to drain the oil. It even keeps it from splashing everywhere. My dad swears by them, but I'm not sure if they let the oil fully drain because of the extra length of the plug still inside.
They're called Fumoto oil drain valves, and I have had
one on every vehicle I've owned for the last 10 years
or so. I absolutely love them. Yes, they stick down a bit
but they're not the lowest point on the undercarriage,
and I've never had a problem. They make oil changes
a lot easier...
 
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