4lo binding 242

tharlanjr · Sep 3, 2009

I have trouble shifting the TC into different gears. I figure its the linkage, no worries.

But when its in 4pt or 4lo it binds up pretty bad. On the street. To bad to even drive anywhere.

Straight line reverse and forward it squeaks the tires.

In 2wd and 4At it drives fine.

I couldn't get it to go back into 2wd for the life of me so its just in 4at right now.

The jeeps PO swapped out a 231 for a 242. It has a SYE and rear 8.8ls. THe front is a hp30.

Any info would be appreciated.

Dundy · Sep 3, 2009

You're not supposed to drive in 4lo or part time 4wd on the street. When in either of those settings the transfer case locks the front and rear outputs causing that bind to happen around corners.

altierior · Sep 3, 2009

reelbigdundy87 said:
You're not supposed to drive in 4lo or part time 4wd on the street. When in either of those settings the transfer case locks the front and rear outputs causing that bind to happen around corners.

x eleventy billion.

NEVER use 4lo or part time 4wd on the street!

i also have the 242. even so, i only use the 4FT in slippery road conditions.

i have also found that my 242 sometimes balks at returning to 2wd after running in 4wd. i can probably give you some tips to try, but first i need to know: are you saying that you can't get the tc shifter back into 2wd, or that it stays in 4wd even after the shifter is in the 2wd position? i've experienced both.

fubar XJ · Sep 3, 2009

I've fought with my 242 off and on for a year or so now. Number one, the linkage sucks. The little plastic inserts, the play at the fulcrum between the two rods, it's just not a good setup. Check your linkage, look for play at the shift tab and lever inserts and at the fulcrum. You can eliminate the factory linkage altogether, search for the thread that details it, it was only a couple of months ago it was discussed in detail. I also had an issue with getting my 242 to stay in 4low and keeping it there. This turned out to be the biggest pain to diagnose. It turned out that the loose needle/roller bearings that go between the mainshaft and planetary cluster had disintegrated, allowing the planetary to flex under load in the gap where the bearings should have been. I replaced them with a set from another 242 and all was well.

Good luck. The 242 is a great case when it's functioning properly, keep at it, you'll figure it out.

Begster · Sep 3, 2009

Ya, as said, the only 4wd that should be used on the street is 4wheel full time, and even then I would only use it in snow, or maybe rain.

fubar XJ said:
I've fought with my 242 off and on for a year or so now. Number one, the linkage sucks. The little plastic inserts, the play at the fulcrum between the two rods, it's just not a good setup. Check your linkage, look for play at the shift tab and lever inserts and at the fulcrum. You can eliminate the factory linkage altogether, search for the thread that details it, it was only a couple of months ago it was discussed in detail. I also had an issue with getting my 242 to stay in 4low and keeping it there. This turned out to be the biggest pain to diagnose. It turned out that the loose needle/roller bearings that go between the mainshaft and planetary cluster had disintegrated, allowing the planetary to flex under load in the gap where the bearings should have been. I replaced them with a set from another 242 and all was well.

Good luck. The 242 is a great case when it's functioning properly, keep at it, you'll figure it out.

Glad to see you got that bit with your t-case sorted out.

As far as returning back to 2wd with the 242, you can get a feel after a little bit whether or not its gone in or not. I've found when it doesn't, its best to stop, put it in reverse, then put it back into drive, and it will almost always kick it into 2wd.

fubar XJ · Sep 3, 2009

Begster said:
Ya, as said, the only 4wd that should be used on the street is 4wheel full time, and even then I would only use it in snow, or maybe rain.

Glad to see you got that bit with your t-case sorted out.

As far as returning back to 2wd with the 242, you can get a feel after a little bit whether or not its gone in or not. I've found when it doesn't, its best to stop, put it in reverse, then put it back into drive, and it will almost always kick it into 2wd.

I find that I have to do that at the end of every run, stop, shift to 2hi, put it ion reverse and back up about ten feet or so, put it in drive, and it's good to go.

And thanks for the good wishes on my 242. It's been solid as a rock since I replaced those roller bearings. No-one I had talked to had ever heard of that problem, but it's hard to believe mine was the first 242 to do that.

tharlanjr · Sep 3, 2009

Mine does it when going straight, Not even 10 feet. No turns at all.

ehall · Sep 3, 2009

Do not use part-time on pavement. The driveshafts are locked together and the front and rear axles will try to turn at the same speed. If the wheels are unable to maintain perfect synchronization (due to EG imbalance in the front and rear tire pressure) then something will have to give--either one of the wheels will break surface contact, or a driveshaft u-joint will blow out, or some other component will break. Seriously, don't do it.

ehall · Sep 3, 2009

Begster said:
As far as returning back to 2wd with the 242, you can get a feel after a little bit whether or not its gone in or not. I've found when it doesn't, its best to stop, put it in reverse, then put it back into drive, and it will almost always kick it into 2wd.

What always works for me is to put the tranny in neutral while moving, and push through the transfer case slowly and deliberately. If I don't feel a particular shift, I blip the throttle and it drops the gear. It seems like bumping the torque converter is enough to unbind the output.

anthrax323 · Sep 3, 2009

tharlanjr said:
Mine does it when going straight, Not even 10 feet. No turns at all.

I think you're missing the advice everyone is giving you... Part-time modes (4HI and 4LO) are *NOT* for street use in dry conditions, whereas 4FT and 2HI are fine for street use. That's it. Nothing more to it.

If you can't even go straight 10 feet on dry pavement without binding in a part-time mode, it's most likely as ehall said - tire pressure imbalances could cause enough of an axle rotation speed difference to cause binding. If you have mismatched tires (new vs. old, BF Goodrich vs. Goodyear), you will also quite likely notice this.

Again, like everyone has said - reserve the part-time modes (those in orange on the T-case shift gate) for off-road or marginal condition use only. With a 242, they really should only be used off-road since you have full-time 4WD at your disposal.

Johnnie Walker · Sep 4, 2009

I use 4WD PT when I am on the strip. hehe.

Begster · Sep 4, 2009

ehall said:
What always works for me is to put the tranny in neutral while moving, and push through the transfer case slowly and deliberately. If I don't feel a particular shift, I blip the throttle and it drops the gear. It seems like bumping the torque converter is enough to unbind the output.

Yes, I've done this as well, it works good.

FloydXJ · Sep 4, 2009

By the way...if the slippage is excessive in a straight line, the 8.8 in the rear may not be a gear match to the front D30. If the advice given does not seem to be the issue, that would be something to check out. It would be a terrible error on the part of the previous owner. Normally going far at all (over 20 feet) with a large gap in gears will break something rather than break the tires loose.

Gears rule: 4% difference maximum. Ford and Dana gears usually do not come in the exact same ratios (4.10 vs 4.11, 3.54 vs 3.50), but differences this small are considered OK.

4lo binding 242

tharlanjr

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Dundy

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altierior

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fubar XJ

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Begster

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fubar XJ

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tharlanjr

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ehall

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ehall

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anthrax323

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Johnnie Walker

Piece of Fish!

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FloydXJ

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