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WHICH LIFT?

CherokeeNewbie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Murrieta, Ca
I was wondering peoples input on if I should go with an 8" long arm with 35's or a 6.5" long arm with 33's. please let me know your thoughts and why so i can try to make an educated decision on which I would like to do. I am looking to buy my kit within the next week and half so really need some help. Thanks everyone. if this has been asked before please point me in the right direction for that thread and I can read it myself.
 
6.5 and 33's and why not rockkrawlers 3 link..6.5 is stretching UNK steerring at 8" OTK steering is needed IMHO. then theres the SYE and all the other goodies and beefing the d30 to handle the 35's regearing man it goes on..and onn lol.
 
ya i am already planning on the SYE and CV driveshaft no matter what lift i decide but i did consider the 35's and re-gearing. that is one reason i was leaning towards the 6.5 I talked to a couple people on other forums and one guy has the 8" long arm with 33's. he can flex the crap out of it becuse he has so much room in the fender wells. and it really doesnt look that bad.
 
stay at 6.5". you dont want to go much higher, for stability reasons off road. and at 6.5", you can fit 35's still
 
I'd personally go with 6.5" at the most, maybe even 4.5 if you don't mind cutting. I've even seen 4.5" lifted XJs on 35s. Keeps the COG real low, less crap to buy and upgrade meaning more money to dump into better things like armor, recovery points, etc.
 
Either of those is killing your center of gravity and when you are really off camber you will start rethinking those choices. Personally I would say RE 4.5-5.5" or RC6.5 at the most and go with 35s.
 
Lower center of gravity is really beneficial off-road. For the mud pits, 57" lifts are awesome! For the trails, keep it low-pro, and add 35s after you cut it up!

I run a 4.5 with 33s now, and have zero problems running any of the Black Diamond trails in Big Bear. You won't find my rig in JP magazine tearing up JV, but it does what I need it to do. :)
 
have to say i agree with the 6.5 at max. i thought about going higher until i started looking at the pro's and con's. yeah it looks cool skyjacked but a 4.5 or 5.5 will out perform it out on the trails. i'm running a 7" Tomken LA kit and it's a bit tipsy.
 
I would say 5.5" in the max you need.

I'm running 35's on the RE 4.5" (plus coil spacers to level it out) and with proper bump stops and trimming, it performs very nicely. I agree about center of gravity. Keep it as low as possible.
 
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I was wondering peoples input on if I should go with an 8" long arm with 35's or a 6.5" long arm with 33's. please let me know your thoughts and why so i can try to make an educated decision on which I would like to do. I am looking to buy my kit within the next week and half so really need some help. Thanks everyone. if this has been asked before please point me in the right direction for that thread and I can read it myself.

Well... first thing, ask yourself why you want to lift your Jeep at all. Or just humor us and tell us what you want your Jeep to do. Mallcrawler? Hunting and fishing by yourself? Go fast Jeepspeed? Or go slow rock crawling?

Give us a clue as to how you want to use your Jeep so that we can offer you some informed advice.
 
I'm running the Full Traction 6.5" long arm on 35"s and have really enjoyed the setup. I get a ton of flex out of that combo, but one thing I would definately not want to do is go any higher. At 6.5" inch I get reall tipsy on off camber stuff and have almost put it on it's side numerous times. Don't go any higher than 6.5".
 
I'm at 5.5" and could fit 35s easy, probably 37s. I'm on 33s right now though. So my vote is neither. Keep it lower, cut the fenders, put tires under it.

Search around in Mod Tech. That's where you'll find all the info on lifts and performance off-road. There's currently a thread about keeping a low center of gravity. Search for Low COG
 
I'd personally go with 6.5" at the most, maybe even 4.5 if you don't mind cutting. I've even seen 4.5" lifted XJs on 35s. Keeps the COG real low, less crap to buy and upgrade meaning more money to dump into better things like armor, recovery points, etc.

X2



If you can fit 35's with 6.5", or even 4.5" why would you lift it 8"? It might "look better" (that's a matter of individual taste and opinion), but it certainly won't PERFORM better out on the trails. :gee:
 
6.5 & 35"s
 
RE 4.5 will put you at 5... with fender trimming and you will have lots of room to fit 35's. if you are thinking 33's/35's definitley just go ahead and get 4.88s. truss wouldnt be a bad thing for that dana 30, and some stronger shafts (or at least carry some spares!)
 
Im at 7.5 rk 3 link 12 inch travel shocks, want to bring it down to 6.5. I dont want to go lower because I like having uptravel. Gotta kinda find the balance you like between COG, clearnce, travel, and being top heavy.
 
i really appreciate all of your guys input i am definitely looking at 6.5 and lower now. one person asked what i was using my jeep for. I go our pretty much every weekend just to the hills around my house and love to trail ride. I am looking for a good all around jeep,l trails and a little rock crawling, obviously nothing to to crazy but i want a nice balance of trail drive ability as well as enough clearance to get me over that tree that fell down last winter in the middle of the trail or the occasional boulder in the middle of the trail.
 
Yea, man, that’s exactly what I have at 4.5 inches and sliders. However, since I got a screaming deal on 34s recently, I am going to put a 2” budget boost on my rig, which will put me somewhere around 6.5 – perfect for most wheeling.

I personally love the way my Jeep looks at 4.5” and on 33s, but I’m going to try the 6.5” and see wussup with that, as well. If I hate it, I can always go back. Something tells me I won’t, though, lol! :)



Here is me on Cleghorn climbing up a good-sized rock. 4.5" and 33s will dominate almost everything out there on the mild trails, trust me. :)


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