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8.25 yoke for SYE?

S

southernrebel20

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Georgia
I pulled the pinion yoke off my old 8.25 that is sitting around and it has 27 splines. I know the t-case output shaft is 27 spline on my 99 with the np242, but are the shafts the same diameter? Haven't pulled my driveshaft to check, has anyone tried this or know if this yoke will work on the back of a t-case as an SYE?
 
just like any hack an tap, it will be held in place with a bolt in the center of the yoke. But I found the dimensions of the T-case output shaft, its about 1.170" the 8.25 pinion yoke is a 1.170" 27 spline yoke. So it looks like this will work just fine. No one else has tried this? with the number of rear axles swapped out these yokes must be laying around.
 
Anything can be done with enough ingenuity.

Several years ago Okie Terry did a complete sye from scratch using parts from various other components.
He used a machined down side gear from a d-35 pressed and welded into a machined out 205 yoke.
He also machined his own seal housing from a block of aluminum.
I'm pretty sure he ran that setup on his 242 for years without any problems.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38907
 
Someone tried this years ago,the outcome was NO,I just dont recall why!
 
Hmmm, I just dont see how it is any different from the yoke that is offered by ironrockoffroad in their SYE kit. As soon as I get the time I'll try it out and let ya'll know for sure. In the mean time does anyone else know of a reason this would not work besides "I vaguely remember this being tried in the past 20 years and it not working but I forgot why"
 
At the transfer case you need the kind of yoke that fits a double cardan type joint. The yoke on the rear diff is made for a standard u-joint and is too bulky to work in a double cardan joint.
 
RCP Phx said:
Someone tried this years ago,the outcome was NO,I just dont recall why!
Click to expand...


this was such stellar advice.... chock one up for his post count i guess

i say try it and post up either way, now we will know
 
jeeperjohn said:
At the transfer case you need the kind of yoke that fits a double cardan type joint. The yoke on the rear diff is made for a standard u-joint and is too bulky to work in a double cardan joint.
Click to expand...
This is exactly why - see http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008 for more information, there are a LOT of posts full of misinformation and a lot of corresponding posts setting the record right, again. For what it's worth, apparently the easiest yoke to use for this is the 3103-27CV, which can be bought from your favorite driveline shop or http://www.drive-lines.com/index.php?pn=3103-27cv for approx. 75 to 120 dollars. The driveshaft required is the front driveshaft out of an automatic transmission XJ. The hardest part of removing one from a junker is the darn 8mm bolts at the transfer case yoke end, they were frozen and I could not get my socket wrench onto them very well due to the oil spray deflector pressfit onto the yoke. I ended up using a BFH to push the oil spray deflector back and then wrestling my shortest 8mm socket and thinnest (sideways as well as lengthwise) 3/8" ratchet onto the back.
 
I know what type of driveshaft to use, I was wondering if the yoke would work. As for it not fitting a double cardan type u joint, why wouldn't it? One cross from the U-joint fits into the yoke and is strapped to the yoke with bolts.

I would love the see the pics of the iron rock yoke next to an 8.25, I believe it is the same thing, It looks to be the exact same thing as the yoke pulled off the TH350 that was linked in the previous post.
 
The problem is that the double cardan version has drilled-through holes that bolts go into from the back, threading into a forged yoke cap that threads into the double cardan joint behind the first U-joint - I'll see if I can find a picture. You might be able to bore out the threaded holes in another yoke, but the depth of the U-joint cap sockets may be wrong (i.e. to make up for differences between the forged cap for a double cardan or the U-bolts/straps for a standard U-joint)

EDIT: http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/713f.jpg shows it perfectly - the bit with the four holes in it is the CV yoke cap. This picture is of one from a Bronco though, so the bolts go the standard direction apparently.

EDIT2: http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/711f.jpg shows the CV yoke cap from the side.

Full explanation at http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/

EDIT3: I am learning a lot from http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml - wish I'd found it sooner.
 
Last edited:
kastein said:
The problem is that the double cardan version has drilled-through holes that bolts go into from the back, threading into a forged yoke cap that threads into the double cardan joint behind the first U-joint - I'll see if I can find a picture. You might be able to bore out the threaded holes in another yoke, but the depth of the U-joint cap sockets may be wrong (i.e. to make up for differences between the forged cap for a double cardan or the U-bolts/straps for a standard U-joint)

EDIT: http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/713f.jpg shows it perfectly - the bit with the four holes in it is the CV yoke cap. This picture is of one from a Bronco though, so the bolts go the standard direction apparently.

EDIT2: http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/711f.jpg shows the CV yoke cap from the side.

Full explanation at http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/

EDIT3: I am learning a lot from http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml - wish I'd found it sooner.
Click to expand...
A std yoke also has a different bolt pattern than a CV yoke!
 
RCP Phx said:
A std yoke also has a different bolt pattern than a CV yoke!
Click to expand...
... I thought that is most of what I said. Are you summarizing for the reading disinclined or just posting the same thing?
 
kastein said:
... I thought that is most of what I said. Are you summarizing for the reading disinclined or just posting the same thing?
Click to expand...

You mentioned drilling out the threads.Im refering to the distance between the bolts holes.
 
Thank you for the useful info, that's the kind of input that is beneficial. I'll take a closer look tomorrow and pull my front driveshaft and see what happens, I'll post back up and let you know more details. If the yoke fits I'll see what I can come up with to mate it to a CV driveshaft.
 
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