Transmission temps 170-230*

I recently installed a trans temp guage and I think it is running a bit hot.

Trans pressure line> external filter w/temp gauge> aux cooler> radiator> return line

All readings off of the "hot" pressure line
Offroading 180*-200*
Highway 170-180*
City driving 170*-230

Do I need a second cooler after the rad? bypass the rad? The temps over 200* cant be good for the tranny?

ETA 35's with 4.56 gears

i have the same set up, but run the B&M cooler AFTER the radiator and dont dont seam to have any problems. our warm summer days in ohio are 90+

You might want to consider bypassing the radiator. You're right in that 230 for just city driving and no load is not good.

Any (((( continues)))) temp above 200 will cut the life of the trany fluid in half. I would change you fluid now.
But the temp you are getting for the highway and city is way out of line.
But driving habits can make a big difference in trany temp.
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Trans pressure line> external filter w/temp gauge> aux cooler> radiator> return line
Do I need a second cooler after the rad? bypass the rad? The temps over 200* cant be good for the tranny?
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NEVER! You SHOULD barely need any add on at all. I would look at a clogged or restricted addon filter/cooler, pinch line or a line with way to many turns in it etc.

On my ex wife bone stocker 01 with just the factory tiny add on cooler I seldom saw trany temps of 160 on the highway. Draging 3800 LBs of trailer behind it.
You have some problem(s) somewhere

If I'm not mistaken wouldn't it work better if you ran the aux cooler after the radiator. So the coolant helps warm up the trans fluid still but the aux cooler still can keep it cooler than the coolant.

I live in AZ and I added the B&M cooler and gauge but bypassed the radiator. We don't get cold enough to need it and if anything over 170 shortens the life of the tranny why run it through the 210 degree radiator? Mine sits at 160 steady unless I'm running up a steep grade for an extended period. If you're worried about the winter, maybe set up valve you could throw in the winter that would send it to the radiator.

How long does it take for you guy's to get up to the 160-170 your talking about? I have my sender in the "hot" side of the system and it takes about 15 minutes of driving to reach 150. The hottest it got was 160.

Sound normal?

Bryson said:

How long does it take for you guy's to get up to the 160-170 your talking about? I have my sender in the "hot" side of the system and it takes about 15 minutes of driving to reach 150. The hottest it got was 160.

Sound normal?

Click to expand...

If you're bypassing the radiator it sounds normal.

That's about right. Mine is on the hot side as well. I do get hotter but usually only when i'm on steep grades and it comes down pretty quick when back on level ground. My cooler is on the passenger side in front of the mechanical fan.

If you bypass the radiator use the B&M coolers as they have a valve in them that bypasses the cooler when the fluid is cold ( at its thickest viscousity). Thats what i run and I am also 150 to 165 after about 15min of highway driving on a hot day. 165 when wheelin.

http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Automatic-Transmission-SuperCoolers

I have mine gauge on the hot side and bypassed the radiator. Typically on the freeway, it runs about 160*-180*. Stop and go traffic (city or freeway) it runs about 180*-210*. Most slow wheeling 190*-220*. Extreme wheeling (i.e. sand dunes, 1st/2nd gear, high RPM's) I have seen it get up to 250*.

Remember, heat is generated by slipage, typically from the converter. When you are on the freeway, the converter should be locked up and generates very little heat. Even if you put it in 3rd, the converter will lock up at cruise) Stop and go traffic, 1st or 2nd gear usage all cause the converter to slip and create heat. This is why on long or steep grades (especially when I am towing my trailer), I drop down into 3rd gear. With the extra load, I have to put my foot down a little further then cruise and it's enough to kick the lock up out and I start to see the temps rise. Pop it down into 3rd, even with the higher RPM's, the converter will lock up and the temps come back down. I have actually been towing my trailer (1400#) up grades going to Vegas and had the temp below 160*. It's all about slipage control.

This is why correct gearing for tire size is important. If the gearing is wrong for the tire size, it will throw off the computer and mechanical RPM's that the tranny sees and could cause the converter not to lock up when it is suppose to, generating a lot more heat and potential tranny failure.