NEWB with fox 2.0s

hey guys, i bought my jeep with the 2.0s already on it. Im going to sound like a complete idiot here but how do i adjust them? they ride way to rough for my liking. thanks in advance!
:wow:

To make them ride smooth you want to take away rebound which requires being sent to a place like Offroad Warehouse or Downsouth Motorsports or Fox to be revalved. But be warned, with a smooth ride comes body roll unless you have the money to through to do trail and error until you find what you want. You can have a smooth ride without body roll but it takes testing and I doubt you want to spend 50 plus shipping per shock more than once. My front is at 70 on compression and 50 on rebound and it rides way smoother than my rear which is valved at 50 on compression and 70 on rebound, different because of the weight of spares and tool, etc. which arnt in the Jeep at the moment so the ride quality will change once loaded down. But really the 70/50 is decent riding even on highway, only bad thing is you have to really watch turns and make sure you have enough up and down travel to drive on highway or you will trike and lose it and bye bye jeep. But as long as you arnt driving like an idiot I doubt you have to worry about that happening.

wow i thought i could do it at home, ill prolly just live with it then. there isnt alot of body roll right now so i may just leave it

it can be done at home! alls you needs is shock oil,and a nitrogen charging system, possibly extra shims?

i havent messed w/ my valving, but i rebuilt one of my fox 2.0's that was leaking. its not hard.

this link should set you straight http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...gLOONKUMh6P6V5Vcg&sig2=nXedcou3eVpH97M6VqTQhQ

cant be for sure, aint got a pdf viewer installed (brand new vista, should come w/ pdf software)

also, i had a local tire shop charge mine, i dont have a nitrogen charging setup.

This Video is for taking apart Kings, but it's very similar.

http://www.desertrides.com/multimedia/video/king_rebuild.wmv

lol @ mariachi band in the background atg 3:30

he has a cool trick for setting IFP depth...

Have fun revalving at home

ef that lol. im just gona live with it. it does decent on gravel roads and thats what mostly around here except for sand

so hard to hear what he is saying in that video heh but I got the gist of it

You really shouldnt be revalving at home without a shock dyno, how else will you end up with a matched set of shocks in the end? They will be roughly the same but I would go with it. Just my .02.

Baja_XJ said:

You really shouldnt be revalving at home without a shock dyno, how else will you end up with a matched set of shocks in the end? They will be roughly the same but I would go with it. Just my .02.

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NO need for a dyno, how would you interpret those results and use them for vehicle specific valving?? Most tuning is seat of the pants/video/tuning sessions with people that know what to look for. As for shock valving they are simply shims of different diameters/thickness, the smaller diameter shims are high shaft speed valving, the larger diameter shims are slow shaft speed valving, thicker shims=stiffer valving, you can mix/match thicknesses/diameters which is "tuning". Very easy to do at home, I suggest some aluminum jaws for your vice, a set if micrometers to verify shim thickness, and a good spanner wrench(a notebook also helps so you can track your results). Filling them and setting IFP depth is the trickiest part as you re-insert the shaft it changes, it took me a few times to get the right depth when I changed resis.

I just realized I accidentally filled my shocks with Argon last time, gotta fill them with Nitrogen next chance I get, hmm, maybe I'll try some helium this time


Here is the rebound stack on my SAWS, the compression stack is between the bronze piston and the top cap, I'm sure the foxs are similar. You can also get a seal/oring kit for pretty cheap and replace those as well while you had them open.




Mechanically I would put it just barely more difficult than an oil change just because they are easy to gouge the parts, and you need regulated nitrogen, 200 psi or so. Now knowing all the valving tricks is much different but I'm sure the guys at fox would be happy to give you some good starting points.
Dig in and good luck!

shock dyno... WOW...

I say dyno more for peace of mind know that you did the right thing to both shocks and ended up with the same numbers in both shocks

Baja_XJ said:

I say dyno more for peace of mind know that you did the right thing to both shocks and ended up with the same numbers in both shocks

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measure shim thickness, diameter(most cases you are only verifying as they get sold in stacks of different thicknesses, .010 stack, .015 stack, .020 stack etc.), remove or add in small increments, repeat for other shock, there is nothing to it and a dyno will do nothing for you. I guarantee you 100% that none of the places you listed that revalve would throw your shocks on a dyno, they add or remove shims and reassemble.

Skullver said:

measure shim thickness, diameter(most cases you are only verifying as they get sold in stacks of different thicknesses, .010 stack, .015 stack, .020 stack etc.), remove or add in small increments, repeat for other shock, there is nothing to it and a dyno will do nothing for you. I guarantee you 100% that none of the places you listed that revalve would throw your shocks on a dyno, they add or remove shims and reassemble.

Click to expand...

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