Thinking of buying a 89 but has a problem, what is it?

Well i found a 1989 xj in near mint condition body wise, but it has a problem as described below, what is it?

"It bogs and pops very bad over 1500-2000 rpms like the timing chain jumped but I had that checked. I had a fuel pressure gauge on it and it's dead on. replaced coil, cap, rotor, TPS. The computer was replaced and it ran great until the computer was remounted under the dash which leads me and the mechanics to think it's the wiring harness." quoted from the guy selling it.

Test the EGR system: Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Operate engine at idle speed. Check vacuum at solenoid vacuum source. Disconnect the hose and attach a vacuum gauge to it. Vacuum should be at 15 inches. If vacuum is low, check the line for kinks, twists, or a loose connection at vacuum connector on intake manifold. If vacuum is ok, remove gauge, reconnect the line and proceed to next step. Check vacuum at solenoid output port. Disconnect the line and attach a vacuum gauge to output port. Vacuum reading should be 0 at this side of solenoid. If vacuum reading is 0, leave the gauge connected and proceed to the next step. However, if vacuum is present check solenoid/ECU operation with the DRB-ii tester. Disconnect electrical connector at solenoid and note vacuum at output port. Vacuum should now be present at output port. If vacuum is present, proceed to EGR valve test. However, if vacuum is not present, replace the solenoid. Test the EGR valve as follows: Leave solenoid electrical connector disconnected. Note the engines idle speed. The engine should idle roughly or stall. If this occurs the valve is ok. If the idle does not change, proceed to next step. Disconnect hose from the EGR valve and connect a hand vacuum pump to EGR nipple. Apply a minimum of 12" of vacuum to the valve and note engine idle. If engine now idles rough inspect the vacuum line between the EGR valve and the solenoid. If the idle did not change, remove the EGR valve and inspect the valve and the exhaust passage in the manifold for blockage, repair as necessary. If no blockage is present replace the EGR valve. Vacuum Transducer Testing as follows: Disconnect the transducer vacuum lines and back pressure line. Remove transducer. Plug transducer output port. Apply 1-2 PSI air pressure to transducer back pressure port. Air pressure can be supplied with a hand operated air pump or compressed air (regulated to correct pressure). Apply a minimum of 12” of vacuum to the input port. Replace transducer if it will not hold vacuum.

I don't doubt the joe's advice is excellent. I would just add to at least check the compression on all the cylinders of any engine with questionable performance. This will let you know that the valves aren't burnt and give you a good idea of the mechanical condition.

1) Disconnect the egr vacuum line and plug it.

2) Disconnect and reconnect the CPS. If it starts, replace it.

3) Drive it home like you stole it.

Vacuum line from MAP sensor to throttle body may have been knocked loose.

C-101 connector may have bad contacts.

So should i buy it for $500.00 ? It rust free and has 130,000 miles on it, larado package. Ugly ass blue but im OK with it.

There are two too many doors on it Pard.

If you steal it for just $500, I might need to call the law!:laugh3:

I paid $900 for the last one, similar to this one, and it had a blown head gasket.

go for it

Check the distributor indexing.

Joe's just jealous that he ain't got extra doors like the rest if us.... :viking:
Get it.

can someone school me on where to disconnect the egr line, and what have you used to plug it. Also where to unplug the CPS. Im not up to date on renix xjs. but im going to pick her up on sept 8th. To replace my rusting out 95.

Nova Wake said:

So should i buy it for $500.00 ? It rust free and has 130,000 miles on it, larado package. Ugly ass blue but im OK with it.

Click to expand...

I'm diggin how many XJ's are in the background.

Crank Pos sensor should be driver side near the rear of the engine, is a 3 pin connector.
EGR is about mid engine on the driver side attatched to the intake. Near is is the vacuum transducer (little black piece with hoses going to/from it. remove the line from the valve and plug it.
If all else fails, dunno how your current rust bucket runs/drive you could swap stuff over.

My current jeep, has a few problems like the transmission slips, nss prevents it from being started sometimes unless i put a torch on it, rockers are almost gone and i can fit my arm up to the shoulder through the floorboards, it also jumps going up hills sometimes but i think its because of a loose connection or hole in the exhaust somewhere ahead of the cat. The engine runs pretty decent besides burning a little oil. But atlas it will not pass next inspection unless i fix things which i may do still but, i rather start with something rust free this time and rust proof it, its to hard to start with something thats already rusting. She'll make it to next inspection(will not pass) but it may be time to put out to pasture.thats what happens 5 years in the rust belt. Now i'll just have to save for another lift bigger this time.

Yeah gotta dig all the cherokees he has.

Now after i get it the mods will soon follow first on my list is to upgrade the brakes, what else is a good upgrade for the renix?