Testing CPS?

Ok - I think the CPS in my '96 might be dead...no surprise with well over 220k on the clock. Is there a way to test the CPS before I replace it? I really can't afford to replace things that aren't broken right now.

My Haynes manual says "If you're working on a 1993 or later model, check the resistance between the B and C terminals. (marked on the connector) The meter should indicate no continuity (open)."

Ok, simple enough, except B and C is not marked on my connector! I'm guessing the first pin is A, then B, then C? I do have continuity from what I'm guessing is B to C, which is supposed to mean a bad CPS. But if it goes the other way, that is C-B-A, then I don't. :doh:

Read this: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1003757

Tim_Mn's post has the info you need.

Naxja search engine is funky for 3 characters or less, search using google and add "naxja" at the end of your inquiry.

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed! Yeah, I tried to search for "CPS" and found no results...thought that was odd. LOL

While we're talking about it, does anybody know if a bad CPS could cause a bad idle? I was having idling problems before it died completely.

99% of the time a bad CPS creates a "Cranks but won't start" situation. Probably not a bad idle. Idle is likely IAC solenoid. Try cleaning it out with throttle body cleaner.

Alright, I got the mo-fu'er off, finally. Just how am I supposed to put the new one back in? I reached up as far as I could from underneath, and as the blood dripped down my arm, there is just no way for me to reach high enough to get the sensor in the right place and get the bolts started.

I found a couple how to's, but they all stop after removal. Anybody have any tips for getting it back in? Before I torch this thing? :gonnablow

Drop the front driveshaft 4 8mm bolts and drop the tranny mount 4 15mm bolts

IIRC, I used three 1/4" drive 10" long extensions and a nut driver handle to get a straight shot from directly behind the transfer case linkage. It took some doin' to get the old one out, but once I found the "sweet spot" it was quick goin' back in.

I just helped my bro install a euro 4.0 in his 95 today(will be for sale shortly in order to get the 'manche turbo/scca project going) and it can be put in w/ 3 of the long extensions and a wobbly. It helps to have someone up top to hold the socket on the bolts, but isn't nec.

Hmmm...I got it out with a bunch of extensions, but couldn't get it back in that way. I guess I need someone above to help and some extra light...

Same here, when mine went, I removed and installed with 2 extensions and a universal joint in between and electrical tape (to hold the bolts in the socket so they don't drop in to the bell housing)

And ya I bled too.