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Long arm Q

RedJeep2.0

RedJeep2.0

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Vancouver, WA
So I was wheeling and the mout that holds my lower control arm riped off my "frame".

I'm looking for a cheap fix but a good one.
I'm going to do my own long arm.

I have all the parts and steel.

I was looking at the teraflex long arm and it looks like there just really long lowers and stock uppers, is this true?

And can I just make my lower from my cross member, and leave my after market upers?

I have a 6 inch lift.
For the lower,
I would have hime joints at cross member and bushings at axle.

What do you think?
And dose any body know what the rule is on upper and lower? Like what % of one is the other?

Thanks...
 
Dont do it that way!The Tera kit is a bad design,short uppers cause radical castor/pinion angle changes thru-out the suspension cycle.
 
I used the Teraflex lower arm kit and lengthened some JKS adjustable uppers to near the same length as the lowers. I made a custom crossmember with mounts for the upper arms. I am thinking about mounting the lowers in some u-channels down the center of the frame recessed inside the frame. The kit is designed to use stock length uppers but I do not recommend doing that for the previously mentioned reason. If I were doing this project again I would make a custom crossmember with both upper and lower arm mounts.
 
RCP Phx said:
Dont do it that way!The Tera kit is a bad design,short uppers cause radical castor/pinion angle changes thru-out the suspension cycle.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm just asking.
But how bad is that, cuz I'm just doing it to get by till I leave for the army. Then when I get back ill most likely add uppers to the lowers for a adjustable radios arm style long arm.

Cuz right now I'm not wheeling at all because I welded my mout back the the frame so I can drive to work.
 
I have never heard of the body side LCA bracket ripping off. What did you do to it??

You could go with any sort of longarm setup that uses aftermarket LCA brackets, but make sure whatever kit you get is either a radius arm (TNT, Claytons, RE) or full 3/4 link (full traction, Rock Krawler, BDS). You do not want to use the stock uppers and longer lowers.

Actually, you could just try the RE control arm drop brackets. Make sure that stock bracket is all welded back on, then bolt on the drop brackets. Maybe some tack welds for them, and you're set.
 
My jeep had the drop braket with out a brace when I got it and I never thought twice about it.
And its torn all the way around.
Its un safe to drive.
Everyone that's seen it has told me I'm crazy for driving on it.

1247514092.jpg

1247514271.jpg

1247512003.jpg
 
Last edited:
That thing's gonna need some major surgery to be drivable again. It might be easier, if it's in your budget, to go ahead and do long arms but do a system with long arms up top too. I had serious wobble issue before I modded my upper arms to long arms.
 
Holy crap! I've never seen that before! Nice work. What type of wheeling were you doing when that happened?

I think you'll be better off building a long arm like clayton's or tnt's y-link. Even a 3 link if you can configure it.

First patch and plate that hole though.
 
redjeep3 said:
...
Cuz right now I'm not wheeling at all because I welded my mout back the the frame so I can drive to work.
Click to expand...

Wow! I'm almost afraid to ask to see the pics of it welded back on. I hope you're handy with a welder. I'd hate to see that let go on the hiway. :eek:

DO NOT use the stock x-member for your long arm build. It's just stamped steel and will not hold up to the stress the suspension will put on it.

Check out advanced fab here. There are about a hundred long arm builds you can read thru from guys that have already figured out what works and what doesn't. Doing it right is a safety issue and I'd hate to see you or anyone else get hurt.

Good luck with the army. :cheers:
 
I was wheeling little rock and dirt trail when it happen, I was not be hard on it...

I have the links I'm going to use bushings hime joints and the box to hold the joints. I just need to get some steel and some thing to come off the lower to the upper that I can adjust. Then make the member, but I'm a poor parts counter kid that's been taking me so long to get down and do it.

But thank you guys ill look up that forum of just 3 and 4 links for some ideas.

And I wanna take my jeep wheeling a few more times be for I leave, I leave some time between next month and Jan 11th for boot camp
 
Ok so now I'm ready to finish the jeep.
I'm doing a 3 link.
Where should I put I'm links.
My buddy say I should run the 2 lowers as close together as I can, and the one upper just strate.
I'm useing all big himes @ the crossmember and the upper one will lay on its side. (so the bolt for the hime is vertical, not horazontal) I had seen it done on pirate4x4.
I bilt my crossmember out of 2x8 .250 wall square steel and my links are 2inch .250wall round.

I'm useing an after markit trackbar. Not a crazy panhard bar if it matters.

Any ideas?
Thank you.
 
jeeperjohn said:
I used the Teraflex lower arm kit and lengthened some JKS adjustable uppers to near the same length as the lowers. I made a custom crossmember with mounts for the upper arms. I am thinking about mounting the lowers in some u-channels down the center of the frame recessed inside the frame. The kit is designed to use stock length uppers but I do not recommend doing that for the previously mentioned reason. If I were doing this project again I would make a custom crossmember with both upper and lower arm mounts.
Click to expand...

Yea I would go with a custom crossmember with both mounts. Thats what I ended up doing.

<a href="http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...350440&albumID=1951977&imageID=33126980"><img src="http://hotlink.myspacecdn.com/images02/45/e16b7155b9d244488859c21fc8b86ffe/m.jpg" alt="" /></a>

<a href="http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...350440&albumID=1951972&imageID=33130798"><img src="http://hotlink.myspacecdn.com/images02/95/76845811fc124fe08ad1f350b29f6f93/m.jpg" alt="" /></a>

<a href="http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...350440&albumID=1951972&imageID=33130919"><img src="http://hotlink.myspacecdn.com/images02/1/2dced15801944123996f537923ef8c90/m.jpg" alt="" /></a>

<a href="http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...350440&albumID=1951972&imageID=33130994"><img src="http://hotlink.myspacecdn.com/images02/2/8a76ad3e8182463882924ac39688f6ca/m.jpg" alt="" /></a>
 
sorry guys, use the second link. and i know im using stupid myspace but my work computer wont let me get on photobucket
 
Any disadvantage to having the 2 lowers in the middle of the crossmember?
From what IV heard its better for flex, and tire clearance.
 
redjeep3 said:
Any disadvantage to having the 2 lowers in the middle of the crossmember?
From what IV heard its better for flex, and tire clearance.
Click to expand...

Well i would put the mounts a little closer on the cross member but not too much and here's why. when you flex and your axle drops at say a 30 Degree angle from the jeep, your mounts on your axle become closer together to relation of the mounts on your jeep. now, if you put the mounts to close together it can cause binding because of the trianglation of the links since your pan hard causes your axle to move side to side all while the trianglation of the lower links are trying to stop it. its hard to picture it but all in geometry.
 
I just put my mounts three inches narrower on the cross member than on the axle. the only time your links should be almost touching at any ends would be if you were doing a triangulated four link in which case you wouldn't be using a pan hard to keep your axle from moving side to side. The links being triangulated would keep it strait.
 
redrider2911 said:
I just put my mounts three inches narrower on the cross member than on the axle. the only time your links should be almost touching at any ends would be if you were doing a triangulated four link in which case you wouldn't be using a pan hard to keep your axle from moving side to side. The links being triangulated would keep it strait.
Click to expand...

Will do. Thank you.
 
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