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help choosing locker

Andrew T

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Houston, TX
I have a 2001 XJ with D30 front and 8.25 rear. I'm wanting to install lockers, but not sure which way to go. I know I will eventually re-gear, but I'm not ready to yet.

This has left me looking at the powertrax no slip and aussie lockers. A buddy that does a lot with toyota stuff said the aussie lockers are a bit stronger than the powertrax. They're also significantly cheaper.

Which do you guys recommend? This isn't normally a daily driver, but does get driven on the road. Should I do an aussie up front and spend the extra cash in the rear for the powertrax since it's supposed to have better road manners?

Thanks in advance!
 
just go aussie, unless you drive like a idiot you wont notice it in the rear and the frt it will be completly invisible in 2wd
 
unless you drive like a idiot


Should I answer that or let my wife? :)
Assuming I do drive like an idiot... what will it do? Forgive my ignorance please. I had a powertrax in my last jeep and liked it, but if I just don't know what the difference is between the two.
 
I have Posted this before in Parts and my Opinion still stands with me on this Subject.

Go Open Diff or Selectable in Front and a Detroit or Lockright Auto Locker (LunchBox) in the Rear where it is most beneficial.

With a Non-Disconnect Front Axle an Auto Locker (LunchBox) can refuse to Unlock while turning on Slippery, Rainy, Icy, or Snowy Road Surfaces even when not in 4 Wheel Drive IMHO. While driving or wheeling on Slippery, Rainy, Icy, or Snowy Road Surfaces a Selectable or Open Diff is always best over an Auto Locker (LunchBox) for the Front Diff. When a Selectable is unselected the Wheels spin like an Open Diff and you will not have to worry about it suddenly Locking Up. It's very difficult to make Normal Turns with a LunchBox (Auto Locker) in the Front. The Front End will drive like it's on Ice and your Turning Radius is cut short. I will never go with anything else but a Selectable or Open Diff for the Front.

I have seen People go up Inclines and hit Mud or Sand and their LunchBox wouldn't let them Steer. I have driven in Heavy Rain here in Florida and the Oil, Grit, Rubber, Sand have kept me going straight without a Locker... heaven forbid I had a LunchBox in the Front. IMHO.

This is just my Opinion.
 
If you're thinking about going to full-case lockers in the future (say, during or after a re-gear) put the powertrax/aussie in the front and leave the rear open until you can afford a full case locker for it. Here's why:

Whatever you end up doing gear-wise, you're probably going to have to buy a new dif. case for the front, and you won't need to buy one for the rear. The carrier "break" for the D-30 splits at 3.55-3.73. The break for the C-8.25 is so low we never see it in the XJ (it's like 2.70 or something) So from 3.55 up to 4.88, it's all the same out back.

Plus, the C-8.25 used bearing adjusters on the carrier (side) bearings. You can drop a new differential in without playing around with shim pack setup. If you eventually want to go to a full case locker in back, save the money and do it in one shot, rather then blowing the $300.00 for the Aussie, then trading up to the full case later.
 
If you're thinking about going to full-case lockers in the future (say, during or after a re-gear)
That's actually my plan. I'd go ahead and get it now, but didn't want to have to worry about re-doing the gears until I re-gear as well.

Plus, the C-8.25 used bearing adjusters on the carrier (side) bearings. You can drop a new differential in without playing around with shim pack setup.
Does that mean that it's significantly easier to adjust the backlash when installing a full locker or re-gearing?


Another Question: Is the detroit the best choice for the rear if I'm not worried about going selectable, and is it that much stronger than the "lunchbox" type?
 
Just don't gas it around corners in the wet or snow.
Unless you are prepared to get sideways, which can be fun IF you are expecting it.

Whatever you end up doing gear-wise, you're probably going to have to buy a new dif. case for the front, and you won't need to buy one for the rear. The carrier "break" for the D-30 splits at 3.55-3.73. The break for the C-8.25 is so low we never see it in the XJ (it's like 2.70 or something) So from 3.55 up to 4.88, it's all the same out back.

open carriers for the front are only $60 or so, probably cheaper if you shop around, not enough in my mind for that argument

Go Open Diff or Selectable in Front and a Detroit or Lockright Auto Locker (LunchBox) in the Rear where it is most beneficial.

^this is what i run (ARB front, Detroit rear) and it is an awesome combination, however, if i had the $, i would run ARB's front/rear. i have a gravel driveway, and drive in the snow, and wheel in the northeast (lots of trees, and wet rocks, mud, tight trails. slow, tight turning maneuvers scrubs the rears ALL the time, and that causes weird steering behavior even with the front dis-engaged, it also has weird sidehill performance. being able to keep the rear open could be useful in some situations. i had just the rear locked for almost a year, and the added performance is un-believeable.


whatever you do, you are making the right decision to get lockers. all wheels must participate.
 
Try an aussie in the front first. You will love it, I promise. Wheel it a few times and see what you think. This will not affect your DD in any way what so ever. I see you are in Houston, so you should not have to many snow days.

You better start buying some armor to. Rock rails at least. You are going to need it as soon as you are locked.

If you want a little more, you could do an aussie in the rear, i personally do not like the aussie on the rear for highway driving. I have F & R aussies. It goes very well. If mine was a DD i would remove it though. I really do not like how it drives on the highway.
 
That's actually my plan. I'd go ahead and get it now, but didn't want to have to worry about re-doing the gears until I re-gear as well.


Does that mean that it's significantly easier to adjust the backlash when installing a full locker or re-gearing?


Another Question: Is the detroit the best choice for the rear if I'm not worried about going selectable, and is it that much stronger than the "lunchbox" type?
I believe the Detroit is the best choice for a full case automatic locker. It is stronger than the lunchbox locker because it has a case made with better materials and better machining than a stock carrier. I actually split a D30 carrier in half on mine. It sucked because it effed up my Aussie locker which I really liked.
Edit: if a full case locker is not in your budget, then get the Aussie but smooth out all the edges of the carrier to remove any sharp edges using a file and/or sandpaper. This will help prevent any cracks from forming and the carrier from becoming 2 pieces.
 
I have Posted this before in Parts and my Opinion still stands with me on this Subject.

Go Open Diff or Selectable in Front and a Detroit or Lockright Auto Locker (LunchBox) in the Rear where it is most beneficial.

With a Non-Disconnect Front Axle an Auto Locker (LunchBox) can refuse to Unlock while turning on Slippery, Rainy, Icy, or Snowy Road Surfaces even when not in 4 Wheel Drive IMHO. While driving or wheeling on Slippery, Rainy, Icy, or Snowy Road Surfaces a Selectable or Open Diff is always best over an Auto Locker (LunchBox) for the Front Diff. When a Selectable is unselected the Wheels spin like an Open Diff and you will not have to worry about it suddenly Locking Up. It's very difficult to make Normal Turns with a LunchBox (Auto Locker) in the Front. The Front End will drive like it's on Ice and your Turning Radius is cut short. I will never go with anything else but a Selectable or Open Diff for the Front.

I have seen People go up Inclines and hit Mud or Sand and their LunchBox wouldn't let them Steer. I have driven in Heavy Rain here in Florida and the Oil, Grit, Rubber, Sand have kept me going straight without a Locker... heaven forbid I had a LunchBox in the Front. IMHO.

This is just my Opinion.
being that he is from Houston tx. i doubt he will go in much snow or ice.


in that case...get Aussies front and detroit rear. nuff said.


and yes a Detroit is MUCH stronger than a lunchbox locker.
 
I've been mod'ing my Jeep this year and I put an Aussie Locker in the front diff, and am still running an open (well, non-functioning factory LS) in the rear until I get time to install parts for the rear.

In my Experience (Not Opinion, Experience) the Aussie Locker may as well not be there in 2wd - you'll never notice it, and with the radio off, all I ever hear is a little tick tick tick while crawling the mall parking lot. :spin1:

In 4wd, the Aussie (As opposed to Lock-Right, which my last Jeep had) is SILENT... LR used to BANG when it locked. I have recently wheeled in Dry conditions over rocks, tree roots, and lots of hardpack dirt with tight turns. The Aussie never seemed to have an effect on steering, locking when it needed to, unlocking for turns. I really like it and believe it was a good purchase, especially for the price. I'm also suprised at what I could drive/slide over with 'just' a front locker, without getting stuck.

My current plans are to install Yukon axles and a locker into the rear end (D35) before fall. I already have a Lock-Right (Misordered for the last jeep) so I may use that until I have dough to rebuild and lock the XJ-D44 I picked up earlier this year.

However your build works out, I wish you the best.

Eric
 
I have a Detroit in the rear in the 8.25. I drive it 80 miles a day and it's very driveable. I take it to the trails and it performs very well.
 
I have F & R aussies. It goes very well. If mine was a DD i would remove it though. I really do not like how it drives on the highway.

What don't you like about Highway Driving? Noise or Feel? My Aussie in the Rear behaves just fine on the Highway, but winter is coming...

Andrew, the BIG question is what size tires are you planning on mounting?

If you're not going very big you wouldn't have to worry about the rear carrier durability with a lunchbox. I put an Aussie in the rear since the DCX 8.25 carrier gears up very nicely. When I gear up I can upgrade the carrier in the front, probably go with a True-Trac gear type locker. I like simple and this setup would be very simple.
 
I forgot to mention that I was pleasanlty surprised how easily the Aussie unlocks. It ratchets around EVERY corner, but unlocks very easily, even on the slick stuff. The ratcheting just lets you know that everything is working as it should...

Right now I'm running 31's... eventually will be 33-35...

35's would be pushing the limit with a stock locked 8.25...
 
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Had Powertrax for 3 years in my 8.25 and had no problems. Wheeled all over Colorado and Moab twice a year. I think they work great. I have an ARB in the front with my HP30. Both axles are geared to 4.56's running 33's and an auto. I also wouldn't advise a lunchbox in the front diff either.
 
If there is a single rock in Texas, i would go with the front, it can be helpful trying to get up over stuff

not that i know anything, im open/open/3.07 and wheel with a lot of wranglers, i just when they get stuck and ask which locker i used to get over the obstacle

I do run a detroit trutrack in the rear of my street car though, its sold as a gear driven posi, but it lays twin strips of burnt bacon whenever i get on it. Are they as effective in the dirt?
 
If you want cheap and reliable go with Aussies front and rear since its not a DD. it will probably chirp around corners but it shouldn't be too bad.
 
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