replacing brake line 96 xj

I searched all the related threads and I still have some questions before tackling this task.

I'm plannning a getting a 25' roll of 3/16" diameter. These tubes seem to be available everywhere, but where can I find all the replacement fittings? I found this at jcwhitney, which one should I get? Any other thoughts on finding all the fittings?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/Brake-Hoses-Lines/GP_2018113_N_111+10201+600015918_10101.jcw

3/16" Zinc Plated Brake Line Restoration Kit for American VehiclesZX367873Kit$36.41
$21.99
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$14.42 In Stock. Ships in 24 hours 3/16" x 25' Zinc Plated Brake Line for American, European, Japanese and British VehiclesZX367871Each$21.41
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You might just check a local auto parts store. They usually have little drawers full of fittings. If you're doing the whole kaboodle, you can also probably reuse some of the fittings, such as the ones up at the master cylinder and proportioning valve, which are not usually that rusty and goobed up. The fittings only hold the flares down, so they need not be fluid tight or pretty as long as the hex heads are in good shape.

I presume you are going to get, or already have, the correct double flaring tool. If this work is new to you, I strongly suggest that before you get too deep into the project, you take some of the spare tubing, or some of the old stuff you've removed, and practice. It can take a while to get those things consistently right.

I also suggest that if you live in rust country and expect to keep your Jeep a long time, get a couple of splicing connectors and install the long rear line in several sections of a fairly standard length, with the first splice somewhere near the base of the firewall run, just before it levels off along the frame. That way if you have to do it again, you need only to replace one section at a time. (edit to add...) Similarly, it's a good idea to put a splice in the line that goes to the right hand caliper, just inside the engine bay. The connectors are brass, and they'll come apart well even when the rest of the system is totally trashed. The female to female double flare fittings are, as far as I know, 100 percent legal (unlike compression rings), and safe.

P.s. I have an 88 pickup truck that blows brake lines. I finally got so tired of routing lines down under the engine, through the grease and rust and mud to the right hand caliper that I routed it over the top by the radiator.

Those brass fittings you speak of are called unions also you can buy poly steel compression fittings these are not made of brass and will pass inspection only place that sells them around here is napa.They are part # 7305x3 for 3\16 brake line

Just to clarify - do not use compression fittings. Those will fail when you least expect it. You want a union fitting where you flare the ends and use the flare nuts. Something like http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...413290&Description=Brake+Line+Fitting+-+Metal

the NAPA eaton/weatherhead compression fitting # 7305X3 will not fail in a brakeline application. they will withstand a lot more pressure than you could ever produce in a brake system. this is where i work, i run the shop and make about 95% of the hose assemblies. http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/SearchResults/index.htm?ssUserText=napa




Eaton corpora tion

The Eaton 7305X3 in 3/16" is rated to a max pressure of 9000 psi with no safety factor. There is a procedure for installing them correctly to achieve that rating which must be followed. We use similar fittings for hydraulic lines for heavy walled tubing which can not be easily flared. The key here is that the fittings are rated for the pressure. I'm more worried about the yokel that grabs compression fittings from the plumbing section which will fail around 700-1000 psi or right about the time you mash the brakes hard in a panic stop.

I think that particular fitting probably would be fine for this application. Personally, I would rather do a properly flared fitting as its more reliable even if it takes a few more minutes to implement. A short section of tube and a pair of these fittings might be a nice addition to the emergency toolkit in the car.

Some states prohibit compression fittings regardless of ratings, as its near impossible to tell if the fitting is properly rated they simply ban them. Auto shops and safety inspections might red flag you if they see them.

Even if compression fittings of some type are permissible, I'd stick to flare unions, if only for the reason that using these guarantees that you can later repair a section of line easily with standard tubing lengths and no cutting.

i agree that a compression fitting of any kind on a brake system should be a temporary repair until the line can be fixed correctly.

You would be way better off to just buy pre-made lines!

Home Depot has a flaring tool for like $25 if you end up needing one - handles small trade sizes of most soft metals (copper, aluminum, brass, and mild steel + brake lines I have tested)

Remember to buy extra fittings... I had to walk back to autozone to pick up more after I realized I didn't have enough halfway through the job. The pre-made sections of line seem to be much thicker walled than the OEM tubing btw, which is good. I find that cutting the old line out in sections and using it as a jig to form the new line against produces very neat results.

kastein said:

Home Depot has a flaring tool for like $25 if you end up needing one - handles small trade sizes of most soft metals (copper, aluminum, brass, and mild steel + brake lines I have tested)

Remember to buy extra fittings... I had to walk back to autozone to pick up more after I realized I didn't have enough halfway through the job. The pre-made sections of line seem to be much thicker walled than the OEM tubing btw, which is good. I find that cutting the old line out in sections and using it as a jig to form the new line against produces very neat results.

Click to expand...

Is that a double flaring tool? If so, that's great, but if not, don't use it on brakes. Yeah, I know, some people have gotten away with it, but brakes really want a proper double flare, and it's a special flare you cannot make with a regular tool. Not only the surface, but the angle of the flare is different. The correct tools are not terribly expensive, and with practice you can make a good safe flare, and then you'll have a useful skill forever (and of course you'll have the correct tool in your kit forever too).

For myself, I think I'd try to use standard lengths of line as much as possible, especially for the most vulnerable lines. Subsequent replacement is then plug and play.

OK to clear the fitting thing up. Last I knew the compression fittings are illegal to use in brake systems in all 50 states as far as a legal inspection is concerned. So in my book just do it right. If you need to join to pieces put the fitting on then double flare the end and use a threaded union. I do not care how much pressure they say a compression fitting can take, I have had one fail and I installed it correctly. Only in an emergency can I see using one of these on a brake line and would get it repaired as soon as emergency is over. Hope this helped a little. These are my opinions so take them as they are or leave them but I will not debate them.

As already stated brass compression fittings are illegal you can now buy steel compression fittings that will pass inspection.

jeep ride said:

As already stated brass compression fittings are illegal you can now buy steel compression fittings that will pass inspection.

Click to expand...

While I think that's potentially useful for a spot repair, I still don't think it makes sense to start with this if you're doing the whole system. Better to start with what's legal everywhere and obtainable anywhere.