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ideal rig setup to run 35s

METAL MONKEY

NAXJA Forum User
Location
severance, co
I'm going to be purchasing new tires and wheels in the next couple of weeks. I'm currently on 31s, and I thought I was going to go to the next logical step, 33s, but 35" KM2s are actually $5 cheaper. So, with that in mind, ideally what is needed to run 35s. I'm in Colorado, so my time is in the rocks and not the mud. I'm light on the skinny pedal, but will get on it if needed.

Current setup:
-4" of lift - Haven't cut the rear fenders but plan on it. Willing to go to 5"
max.
-4.88
-arb f/r
-4340 alloys w/ 760x joints and full circle clips in the d30
-toyota 8.4 in the rear (30 spline shafts)
-stock steering
-steering box brace

While we're on the subject, anything I should do to run 33s reliably should I decide not to go to 35s

Also on a side note, would 3.25 bs be too little for a 12.50 tire? Correct if I'm wrong, but 3.75 - 4 bs is ideal with a 8" - 10" wide rim. And is there any real downside to going to a 16" wheel with advancements in tire technology.

Thanks
 
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as far as the bs goes 3.75 is perfect i would say. that's what i run with 33's and no rubbing. 3.25 isn't that bad but your tires will stick out a good amount. i used to run a 10" wide rim with 2" bs and no flares. cops loved me
 
I'm going to be purchasing new tires and wheels in the next couple of weeks. I'm currently on 31s, and I thought I was going to go to the next logical step, 33s, but 35" KM2s are actually $5 cheaper. So, with that in mind, ideally what is needed to run 35s. I'm in Colorado, so my time is in the rocks and not the mud. I'm light on the skinny pedal, but will get on it if needed.

Current setup:
-4" of lift - Haven't cut the rear fenders but plan on it. Willing to go to 5"
max.
-4.88

With 5"s of Lift and 4.88s, I see no problem going to 35s as long as the Front and Back Fenders are as Cut Out as they can be and you use Hockey Pucks or an RE Bumpstop Kit in the front and an Iron Rock 4x4 Truss with 2" Bumpstop Pads in the Rear. You will need Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms to have the Uppers set at 15 1/4"s and the Lowers set at 16 5/8"s for 5"s of Lift. You will need 4 to 6" Lift Shocks as well. I sit at 5"s of Lift and have full Cut outs. I have been debating whether or not to go with 33s or 35s for quite some time now.

-arb f/r
-4340 alloys w/ 760x joints and full circle clips in the d30
-toyota 8.4 in the rear (30 spline shafts)
-stock steering
-steering box brace

While we're on the subject, anything I should do to run 33s reliably should I decide not to go to 35s

A good Steering Stabilizer comes to mind. Do you have a Drop Pitman Arm, an Adjustable Track Bar, Extended SS Brake Lines, and a TC Drop or SYE with Driveshaft?

Also on a side note, would 3.25 bs be too little for a 12.50 tire? Correct if I'm wrong, but 3.75 - 4 bs is ideal with a 8" - 10" wide rim. And is there any real downside to going to a 16" wheel with advancements in tire technology.

I would go with 16x10 Wheels with 3.75 to 4.0 BS personally for 35x12.50x16 Tires. Plenty of room to keep the Brakes cool and cleaner IMHO.

Thanks
 
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I've got an OME stabilizer, extended chevy brake lines, AA sye, and a kevins adjustable trackbar. So, I'm set as far as that goes.

What about steering and chassis stiffeners? Are they a must, or just a good upgrade?
 
Not really a must but an as soon as you can afford thing. I would get steering first. you already have an SYE? shouldnt be a question go 35's :D. Cher provided good info :)
 
Trimming the fenders is a must. You can fit 35"s on as little as 4-4.5" of lift with a lot of trimming and bump-stopping, 5.5"-6.5" is the most common amount of lift for 35"s. You should do a frame reinforcement plate to support your steering box, I have a homebrew 1/8" plate on the inner surface where the box attaches and 3/16" plate on the outer surface. The inner plate is rosette/stitch welded to the frame, the steering box bolts pass through and pick up the entire stack-up. A steering stabilizer isn't really necessary, most people I know don't bother with it (myself included). As long as your caster and toe are set properly and your tires are balanced, you should be fine. The front can easily and cheaply be bump-stopped with hockey pucks, the rear can be done with a supported extension plate off of the u-bolt plate rather than a really long factory-style B/S extension. Either way works, I prefer the former method. Obviously, your brake lines either need to be replaced or re-mounted to compensate for the lift. You also will need to adjust your steering stops, depending on your wheel basc spacing. I run 15" x 8" steelies with 3.75" b/s. This is pretty universally regarded as the best dimensional set-up for 35"s. I have my steering stops adjusted so the tires lightly rub the wheelwells at full-lock. I run about 6" of lift (6.5" kit that has settled a bit)

People have gone about this several different ways, the above is what has worked well for me. Also bear in mind different brands of tires are sized differently. My 35" SSRs are almost an inch taller than my 35" MTRs, so they rub a little more and the clearances are a little tighter overall.
 
Even on 33's the stock steering box will not last long (statement is made from experience), and I would not trust the stock Y-link or TRE's in the rocks.
Personally, I would not want to run a rig at 4-5 inches on short arms.

Even on 33's, you will be overworking the unibody, I would say chassis reinforcing is a must once you move past 31's... even at 31's I did chassis reinforcing and steering upgrades.

I find it odd that one would decide what size tire to run based on $5 price difference, then build the front axle, add lift and pruchase new wheels to accomodate... blows that $5 clean out the window.
 
what I have listed in my original post is my current setup, not what I'm goingbuild. it sounds like a steering upgrade and stiffeners will finish me out for 35s. the TNT bumper has a steering box reinforcement plate already, so no real issues there.
 
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