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Finished lift, now problems

B

bigblueishness

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Winterville, NC
so i finished putting on my 3.5 inch lift, put my stock tires back on after done, drove it, viberates in the back at 20-42 mph, so I buy shims/wedges 6 degree put them on and nothing changes :mad:,
so would a t case drop fix that and how big of one, or is that just a band-aid for the viberation or do I buy a SYE and a new drive shaft

then got new wheels and tires, new to me, BFG A/T 31/10.50/15 all tires worn differently, now I have a wobble in the front goin 50-62, what can I do to fix that

by the way
stock track bar, steering
front sway bar is not connected

thanks for reading
alex
 
bigblueishness said:
so i finished putting on my 3.5 inch lift, put my stock tires back on after done, drove it, viberates in the back at 20-42 mph, so I buy shims/wedges 6 degree put them on and nothing changes :mad:,
so would a t case drop fix that and how big of one, or is that just a band-aid for the viberation or do I buy a SYE and a new drive shaft

then got new wheels and tires, new to me, BFG A/T 31/10.50/15 all tires worn differently, now I have a wobble in the front goin 50-62, what can I do to fix that

by the way
stock track bar, steering
front sway bar is not connected

thanks for reading
alex
Click to expand...

You should have your XJ Aligned. Take it to a 4x4 Shop to have it done correctly if you are unable to do it.
Take out the Shims and you could do what is in this Thread and keep your TC clearance. You could always do the TC SYE Kit Upgrade and TW Driveshaft later if you wish.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008&highlight=SYE+yoke


This is Dave41079's Setup.

SYE021.jpg
 
Last edited:
bigblueishness said:
how did you drill the whole, I couldnt do it with a hand drill
Click to expand...

I did as stated in #17 to #20. I pecked at it at Slow Speed while having a Friend drip oil on it while drilling and applying pressure.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/hack and Tap Install.pdf

Slip yoke eliminator installation procedure:
10. Place the vehicle on level ground and chock the wheels, or place the vehicle on jack stands
under the front and rear axles.
11. Ensure the vehicle is secure.
12. Remove rear driveshaft by unbolting the rear pinion u-joint straps and slide the slip yoke off
the end of the transfer case.
13. Make a mark where the transfer case output shaft will be cut by measuring from the center of
the u-joint pocket on the rear pinion yoke to the transfer case output shaft and mark at 33-3/4".
Mark with permanent marker, preferably a silver felt tip permanent marker. *This must be
done with the vehicle weight on the suspension as the vehicle will be normally driven.
14. Use cut-off saw to cut off the transfer case output shaft at the mark from step 12.
15. Ensure that end of shaft is perfectly straight and square.
16. Chamfer the outside corner of the output shaft so the yoke slides on smoothly.
17. With the yoke in place, mark where to drill the hole using a sharpie marker or scratch awl.
Alternatively, you can find a drill bit that fits tightly in the center hole of the yoke and drill
through the yoke into the transfer case output shaft just enough to make a good center mark.
18. If needed, use center-punch and hammer to mark where to drill shaft.
19. Drill with ¼” drill bit 1-1/8” deep (Peck drill and use lubricant).
20. Re-drill same depth with a 5/16” drill bit (Peck drill and use lubricant).
21. Tap with 3/8”-16 Tap (Make sure to use lubricant and back out the tap frequently to clear chips).
22. Make sure 3/8” x 3/4” bolt threads in completely.
23. Apply high strength threadlocker to threads of bolt.
24. Install yoke onto output shaft and torque fastener to 30 foot-pounds.
25. Install CV driveshaft and tighten all loosened bolts.
26. Grease slip shaft and u-joints where applicable.
Click to expand...
 
id say an sye n new driveshaft would put u in the clear

ironrockoffroad.com has a sye/driveshaft combo for 200 plus shipping
 
i hand drilled mine too...with enough lift u can just sit underneath the jeep n do work lol
 
bigblueishness said:
so i finished putting on my 3.5 inch lift, put my stock tires back on after done, drove it, viberates in the back at 20-42 mph, so I buy shims/wedges 6 degree put them on and nothing changes :mad:,
so would a t case drop fix that and how big of one, or is that just a band-aid for the viberation or do I buy a SYE and a new drive shaft

then got new wheels and tires, new to me, BFG A/T 31/10.50/15 all tires worn differently, now I have a wobble in the front goin 50-62, what can I do to fix that

by the way
stock track bar, steering
front sway bar is not connected

thanks for reading
alex
Click to expand...


It sounds like you have 2 different problems - death wobble and vibes.

You need to tackle them one at a time. First, it sounds like the DW came from your new-to-you wheels. I would put your stock wheels back on and address your vibes first.


What year is your XJ? It's common that older XJ's are not as prone to vibes as late models are.

At 6 degree shims and a 3.5" lift, I can almost bet that you pointed your pinion over the output shaft, which would still give you vibes. Take out your shims and add a transfer case drop kit or make your own. Then see if you still have vibes. If you don't, great.. If you do, then you need a SYE. Hack n taps are cheap. That's you need to add shims and angle your pinion 2 degrees below your transfer case output shaft. Just search around; there's tons of info on here about this.

Next, your wheels. Either your wheels are out of balance or they just pronounced problems that was already there. This could take a lot of time and effort to fix. My first guess would be your wheels. Once again, search and you'll find a ton of help.


Do not try and fix it all at once because you'll be spinning your wheels ( no pun intended ;) ) Take one step at a time and feel free to report back every time you worked on one step and whether it worked or not.

E

EDIT - right about 3" of lift is when you need to either drop your trac bar or get and adjustable one. I vote for an adjustable. And put your front sway bar back on so you can diagnose the problems.
 
Last edited:
"I can almost bet that you pointed your pinion over the output shaft" what is that is different words, the tires and wheels came off of a 98 ZJ with bad ball joints so my front left tire is worn on the one side and now is over inflated, would that cause any problems
 
bigblueishness said:
"I can almost bet that you pointed your pinion over the output shaft" what is that is different words, the tires and wheels came off of a 98 ZJ with bad ball joints so my front left tire is worn on the one side and now is over inflated, would that cause any problems
Click to expand...

Your Differential on your Axle Assembly has a Shaft (Pinion) in the front of it that connects to the Rear Yoke (on an XJ) or Flat Flange (on Fords) to the Driveshaft. Because of the 6 Degree Shim, the Pinion Shaft is Pointed Up too far and will cause Vibration as well on a 3 to 4" Lift. Maybe a 2 Degree Shim would suffice IMHO.

Here is a Page for correct Pinion Angle Alignment: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/pinion/pinion-1.htm

You really do not need to be as accurate as the Write Up. You could align the Pinion and Driveshaft by eye if need be IMHO.

image007.png


Hope this helps.

cher96 Vicki
 
Last edited:
bigblueishness said:
not trying to disagree or fight, but the angle at the differential and the drive shath looks like I need like 6 more degrees to make it line up

btw 2000 xj
Click to expand...


Something's not right then. Remove the shims. I have the RE 4.5" Super Flex lift and needed 4 or 5 degree shims. (I forgot because it's been a few years) My buddy had a 5.5" to 6" and needed 6 degree shims.

So, at 3.5" of lift, you do not need 6 degree shims.

You need to start over. Remove the shims and add a t-case drop kit. You may not even need shims. You need to add shims when doing a SYE.



E
 
Well, really the best thing to do is to take out the Shims and sell them and do one of the choices below and be done with the Rear Vibration:

A. The Junk Yard SYE & Driveshaft: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008&highlight=SYE+yoke

B. The ironrockoffroad.com Slip Yoke Eliminator and Driveshaft Kit: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X_HNT

C. The JB Conversions NP 231 HD SYE Kit and a Tom Woods Rear Driveshaft:
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/np231/np231j_std_sye.html
http://www.tomwoodscustomdriveshafts.com/index.html
 
bigblueishness said:
not trying to disagree or fight, but the angle at the differential and the drive shath looks like I need like 6 more degrees to make it line up

btw 2000 xj
Click to expand...

Are you able to Post up some Photos?

Is the front of your Differential pointed more downward after adding Shims? If so, maybe they are in backwards. IDK.

Posting up a Photo would help. However, I suggest doing what I wrote in my last Post; get rid of the Shims and do a SYE and Driveshaft. IMHO.

Just my .02
 
alright, now im getting really into this thread. ive been doing my homework on syes, i got a stock 96 country with a 3.5" RE super ride on the way (w/ full leafs). RE "recommends" an sye for the 3.5" lift, from what ive read on this particular kit, most people net over 4" from it. so will i need an sye or will a TC drop and an angle finder work for now? im not as concerned about losing an inch or so of clearance from a TC drop, i dont plan on doing any really serious wheeling til next spring or summer (theres no legit trails around where i live, closest ones are at least 3 or 4 hours). i eventually would like to go to a sye, but dont have the $$$ now, so i guess my question is will a TC drop work until i get the $$$ for a sye? also, ive read that the 96 and older cherokees "accept" lifts better with less vibes than 97+, which makes me lean a little more towards a TC drop. any additional info from what is on this forum and the many others ive read would be awesome. thanks guys.
 
Elias said:
Something's not right then. Remove the shims. I have the RE 4.5" Super Flex lift and needed 4 or 5 degree shims. (I forgot because it's been a few years) My buddy had a 5.5" to 6" and needed 6 degree shims.

So, at 3.5" of lift, you do not need 6 degree shims.

You need to start over. Remove the shims and add a t-case drop kit. You may not even need shims. You need to add shims when doing a SYE.



E
Click to expand...
Lift height isn't the only thing that will determine what degree of shim you will need.long shackles will push pinion up quite a bit. that being said you need to find out what your T/C angle is vs your pinion angle before you can be sure.another thing is shims can be installed with thick end forward or rearward depending on if the pinion needs to go down or up.
Jeepwire.Com Presents: Setting Your Pinion Angle
 
strikechords

my plan now is to get a t-case drop, for like 20 bucks or make my own, to get rid of some of the viberating, and when I save the money up, I will try to find a used SYE or new to go on
 
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