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I Boo Booed my XJ again. Need Advise.

cher96

cher96

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
Again, I almost completely tore off my Lower Control Arm Mounts and badly twisted my one Upper Control Arm Mount. Both my Sealed Wheel Bearings are gone and I plan to move up to 35x10.50x15 or 16s in October. I'm torn between many Axle Assemblies. They all have their Pros and Cons. I really need help in deciding which would be the reasonable choice to Upgrade to. I'm looking for a Junk Yard Solution. I plan on doing a Ford 8.8 Rear Axle Simple Swap (31 spline) and a S10 or Dakota Bastard Pack as well unless I can be convinced of otherwise.

I do a little Crawling when I travel North, mostly Old Washed Out Logging Trails. Most of the time, however, I'm in Mud, Sand, and/or Swamp. During the Dry Season the Mud Trails turn to Deep Rutted Hard Pan.

Thanks.

cher96 Vicki
 
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sounds like its time to visit TNT Customs website. I used their truss and mounts to put a D44 and a 9" from a 78 f150 under my rig.
 
I believe a XJ Dana 30 High Pinion Assembly is not any stronger than a TJ Dana 44 Low Pinion Assembly so I really don't want to go this direction IMHO.

I thought about doing a '80-'91 SJ Wagoneer Dana 44 because the Axle Tube Walls are thicker and the Diameter of the Tubes are larger (as I remember it), however, I would have to weld on Control Arm Brackets, Coil Spring Perches, and Shock Mounts I believe.

I was also thinking about doing a JK Dana 44 or a Dana 60 but I think a Dana 60 would be over-kill and I do not like how the Pumpkin hangs so low. With the JK Dana 44, I could Gusset the Inner Knuckle and the Axle Tube which seems to be problematic with some Jeepers.

I want my Lug Patterns to match Front and Back so whatever I do for the Front Assembly I will need to match a similar Lug Pattern Rear Assembly.

So, as you can see. I need some Advice as what I should do Front and Back.

Jeepers around here really don't do much in Axle Assembly Upgrades except Lockers. They break an Axle or Ring Gear.... they just replace it. However, since I have a pretty beaten up, torn up, and worn out Front Assembly and will be Upgrading my Rear Assembly... why not do it right. IMHO.

Thanks.
 
Stihl029 said:
sounds like its time to visit TNT Customs website. I used their truss and mounts to put a D44 and a 9" from a 78 f150 under my rig.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I thought about a Ford F150 Assembly Swap, however, without narrowing them... I could never keep up with my CJ, YJ, TJ, and JK Buddies on Club Rides. I have enough challenge trying to squirm through the tight Trails they like to use with my XJ and the Assemblies I have now.

I have also thought about Early Bronco Assemblies, but I have no idea if they would even be a viable solution.

I have to keep it as much on the cheap as I can.

Thanks again.
 
BTW: I read CRASH's Sticky: Axle Swaps and Gears. It is EXCELLENT!

However, I am still unsure which way to go and I need Advice to help me make a doable/on the cheap Front and Back Assemblies decision. That's why I Posted Up on this Forum.

I appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks.

Oh, oh..... Posts: 666 for me. I must be Demonized. Help meeeeeeee. LOL
 
I'd recommend fixing your failure points. It sounds like you need to finish the factory welds on the lower control arm mounts as well as add a gusset to beef them up. 35 x 10.5 is a narrow tire so assuming you run it on an 8 inch wide wheel I think new wheel bearings should last 100k miles since your not overloading them with a wide, heavy offset setup.

Overall I think a Dana 30 should hold up well to that size tire. Plus you already have it under your Jeep and probably have money tied up in gears and a locker. Plus, the bolt pattern matches the 8.8.

Has anything else on the Dana 30 failed you before?
 
Yeah I wouldn't consider ripping mounts off as a failure of the axle. The stock stuff is paper thin. Get some quarter inch brackets from Ballistic Fab or Ruff Stuff and call it good until you start breaking internal parts.
 
cher96 said:
Yes, sirree. Passenger Side Upper. Twisted it like a Pretzel.
Click to expand...

I'm kinda surprised that someone that searches and studies as much as you has not strengthened these weak points. Small welds and thin material.

That 40 spline, hp, ctm Danatrac won't be on my porch either.

Cut the bent junk off, replace with stouter.
:rof:
 
cher96 said:
I believe a XJ Dana 30 High Pinion Assembly is not any stronger than a TJ Dana 44 Low Pinion Assembly so I really don't want to go this direction IMHO.
Click to expand...
Good!
cher96 said:
... however, I would have to weld on Control Arm Brackets, Coil Spring Perches, and Shock Mounts I believe.
Click to expand...
cher96 said:
I have to keep it as much on the cheap as I can.
Click to expand...
cher96 said:
me make a doable/on the cheap Front and Back Assemblies decision.
Click to expand...
Those are where you are going to get into an issue. If you can't weld on new mounts to an axle you'll have to pay somebody or just shell out for a "new custom" assembly. Neither of which are cheap. A front axle swap will cost you at least $1000+ easy, if done right.

For 35's its a toss up. The 8.8 rear will be fine and you can get shafts (or re-drill yours) for the 5 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern to match a 1/2 ton front axle setup.
The front is where you run into problems. If you don't want to / can't weld on the mounts like you stated above there is no way you'll do it for cheap unless you have buddies that like cheap beer.
You really have three options with taking into account what you post above:
1) Keep the HP30 and throw some new quality brackets on it, quality shafts, and genuine Spicer 760x's.
2) Find someone selling an already narrowed driver's drop HP44, or HP60. Get ready to shell out some cash. There are a few I've seen for sale recently.
3) Call SolidMfg, Currie, Dynatrack, etc.

To me, only one of the above makes any sort of sense for "cheap and easy".

What do you have for gears? That will also play a role in this whole deal if you have to re-gear.

Oh, and what is with the odd use of capitalization? Shift key issues?

agent98 said:
I'm kinda surprised that someone that searches and studies as much as you has not strengthened these weak points. Small welds and thin material.

Cut the bent junk off, replace with stouter.
:rof:
Click to expand...
Most of her posts are copy and paste, but I agree on both counts.
 
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I do know some things and some things I have no clear Knowledge of. That is why I too Post Up a question or two at times. This time I need help with Advice. I truly thank you Guys for Posting Up your thoughts on available Solutions for my Questions.

Almost all the Offroad Junk I have had before 2005 were not Jeeps except an old Army Surplus Willy's M38A1 I had 30 or so years ago. All of my other Offroad Junk were '87 and earlier, Carburetored, and Leaf Sprung except two... a VW Baja I built and a '87 Toyota 4x4 with IFS, 32s, and 4"s of Lift. After having the only IFS 4x4 in my life (and not liking it at all) and blowing the R22 in it.... I looked for something better. That's when I bought the XJ. I would rate the XJ as being equal with my all time favorite... a 1967 Ford Bronco Half Cab Hard Top 4x4 I had long ago. I would still have it if it wasn't for all the Salt they use on the Roads up North.

I am always studying and researching everything I post. Many of the Product, Quotes, and Citationed Replies I Post Up are Cut n Paste with the intent to help other Jeepers with possible Product Choices and with Information that may be of use to them. If someone can say it better than I or if I do not have the expertise and it can be found elsewhere I post it. However, many lots more are IMHO, I believe, I think, or I may be wrong and comes from Opinions I have listen to over the years, Questions I have asked, Experience, Studying Internet Pages, Books and the 4 Offroad Magazines I subscribe to, and the many Forums I am a Member of. I always Research and Ponder everything I post before I post it. I am not always correct and I may be mistaken some times but at least I am trying to be of help to others IMHO.


agent98 said:
I'm kinda surprised that someone that searches and studies as much as you has not strengthened these weak points. Small welds and thin material.

Cut the bent junk off, replace with stouter.
:rof:
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I have thought about doing this quite often. I was just about to order a Currie Flex-Joint Upper Mount and some TnT HD Lower Control Arm Mounts but procrastinated too long.

I went to a friends house today and he told me I have a bent Axle Tube as well and with all that is damaged and worn out on my Axle Assembly.... I will have to replace it. I had the mounts rewelded so that I can keep driving it temporarily.


RCman said:
Those are where you are going to get into an issue. If you can't weld on new mounts to an axle you'll have to pay somebody or just shell out for a "new custom" assembly. Neither of which are cheap. A front axle swap will cost you at least $1000+ easy, if done right.

For 35's its a toss up. The 8.8 rear will be fine and you can get shafts (or re-drill yours) for the 5 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern to match a 1/2 ton front axle setup.
The front is where you run into problems. If you don't want to / can't weld on the mounts like you stated above there is no way you'll do it for cheap unless you have buddies that like cheap beer.
You really have three options with taking into account what you post above:
1) Keep the HP30 and throw some new quality brackets on it, quality shafts, and genuine Spicer 760x's.
2) Find someone selling an already narrowed driver's drop HP44, or HP60. Get ready to shell out some cash. There are a few I've seen for sale recently.
3) Call SolidMfg, Currie, Dynatrack, etc.

To me, only one of the above makes any sort of sense for "cheap and easy".

What do you have for gears? That will also play a role in this whole deal if you have to re-gear.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I believe 4.56s would be appropriate for 35s. I do not think 4.88s are strong enough in a Dana 30 as the Ring Gear is thinner as I remember it, however, I may be wrong.

Since my 16 year old Son and I are unable to weld anything, I have a Friend that does that kind of work for me and I pay him accordingly. I never ask anyone to do any work on my Junk unless I give them what they ask for. He and I have been talking about doing a Rear End Swap for quite a while.

Thanks for the advice on the F8.8. That's what I'll do if I must, however, I'd rather not go with C-Clip Axles if I have other choices available.
A narrowed HP60 or HP 9" would be Awesome. I'll look around... maybe I'll get lucky and find one or maybe really lucky and find me a Currie RockJock HP60, a TrueHi9 or a Currie HP9 or even better... the Mega Hi9 on the Cheap. That would be a Miracle. LOL

I expect to have to rebuild the Assemblies when I upgrade Gear Sets. Mounts, Brackets, and so forth. I am sorry, I should have stated that when I first posted. The Gear Sets I will have Professionally done at my favorite Local 4x4 Shop just 2 miles away.

Thanks again everyone for your advice and insights.

cher96 Vicki
 
Swamprat said:
go find some JK axles, i wanna see those swapped in an XJ
Click to expand...

Cheapest Junk Yard Assemblies I could find and they are not Local by far:

2007
Front Axle Assy.
Jeep Wrangler 4 10 COMP WITH ARMS DANA 44 $2500

2008
Rear Axle
Jeep Wrangler -11-07,3.8L,DANA 44, 4.10 RATIO,W/TRU-L $1350.14
 
Okay, as I understand it, a SJ Wagoneer Dana 44 Front Axle Assembly is an inch or so wider than a Dana 30 therefore perfect for wider Tires. However, it is Low Pinion and the Pinion Angle would be problematic for Front Driveshaft Angle. Also, the Ring Gear and Pinion setup is not as strong as that of a High Pinion Setup or something to that nature.

Would it be advantageous for someone to cut off the Inner Knuckles and twist them so the Pinion Angle would be better? I might have read that somewhere; it just popped into my head.

Would the Low Pinion Differential be strong enough to trail ride Weekends and crawl for a Week once a Year on 35s?

Thanks.
 
Ba-Riedo said:
Cutting and turning the knuckles would help for the pinion angle, but if you are doing this then get a HP full size unit and narrow it down.

-Alex
Click to expand...

Yes, your right. I always over-think things. I should have figured that out. I will go that route then.

Thanks

Vicki

Front figured out.... Narrowed Ford HP Dana 44.

Now for the Rear Assembly.

Since Low Pinion is the stronger Choice for the Rear, then a Waggie Rear Assembly is what I should use if I want a Non C-Clip Rear End? Anyhow, it seems Logical but may be not be my best Option. Honestly, I don't know.

If I do this, will it match Lug Patterns on a Narrowed Ford HP Dana 44?

Answer... Nope. "All F-100’s and F-150’s were a 5 on 5.5” wheel bolt pattern" and a Waggy's is "6 on 5.5” bolt pattern." Citation: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52219 I just reread it again.

Is there a Rear Assembly I can match Lug Patterns with a Ford HP44 Front Lug Pattern that maybe I don't have to narrow other than Swapping in a Ford 8.8 with C-Clips and redoing it's Lug Pattern?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
plymatt65 said:
Mitsubishi or Isuzu D44
Click to expand...

I can not seem to find Axle Info that gives an accurate Spline Count of these Axles.

The only thing I found stated that the Maximum Tire Size was 33"s and I plan on going with 35s.

All the same, thanks.
 
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