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Motor mount lift on an xj

ktm racer 419

ktm racer 419

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before everyone tells me it is not needed let me fill you in.

1-My tranny mount is about 2" higher than stock
which in turn has my driveshaft output higher than stock pointing slightly up. a lower driveline angle will benefit me as little as it will help.

2-My jeep is low, I have large tires, I like to go fast. I am properly bumpstopped but my truss (sits about 2.5" above the axle tube under the oil pan) has contacted the oil pan, and with enough force to dent the bearing cradle inside making contact with my crankshaft (not a fun noise) everything else clears just fine and the truss is staying.

3- I need motor mounts and a tranny mount anyway


any complications I would see? I no longer have a fan shrould and it cools just fine on the hottest days on the trail anyway.
I can make the exhaust work

I have heard the valvecover would hit the hood, and it will be close, but if there is an issue i noticed a structural part of the hood is right at the tallest part of the valvecover and could be trimmed if needed.

thoughts?
 
I don't have any experience with it but if you don't mind cutting the hood, i don't see you running into any major problems. As long as the tranny tunnel has room for the move as well.
 
Yeah, I saw some 1" lift mounts from Browndog and wondered how the tranny would work, as I didn't see enough room for the lift, but hey who knows.
 
trail rate this said:
i believe those are for wranglers. If you do a 1" engine lift you dont need a 1" tranny drop because of drive angle.
Click to expand...

That and because they can do body lifts also.
 
A couple of headaches here:

1) There's not a lot of room under the hood. I had failed engine mounts, and every time I stood on it to get moving, I could see my hood jump from the engine hitting it. Nice dent in the inner panel as well.

2) You'll have to modify or eliminate the fan shroud. If you don't, the fan will "self-clearance" on it - metal fan, plastic shroud, predictable results.

Question: Why did you lift your transmission mount, and why two full inches? I get the nagging feeling that you may not have needed to go that far up, and I want to make sure (one of us is wrong - and it's probably me. Enlighten me, please.)

The idea of an EML is to complement a body lift by keeping everything in the same relative location. Since the body gets lifted WRT the vehicle's frame, lifting the engine mounts by a like amount preserves the OEM alignment of things (like the aforementioned cooling fan - which is close to critical) and you'd have big trouble if you didn't.

If you're set on doing this, I'd suggest also ditching the OEM mechanical fan and going with a dual E-fan setup (to get some more clearance, also remove the studs for the fan clutch. Put the pully back on using 1/4"-20x1/2" screws, and just the screw heads will be sticking out - gains you about 3/4".)
 
5-90 said:
A couple of headaches here:

1) There's not a lot of room under the hood. I had failed engine mounts, and every time I stood on it to get moving, I could see my hood jump from the engine hitting it. Nice dent in the inner panel as well.

2) You'll have to modify or eliminate the fan shroud. If you don't, the fan will "self-clearance" on it - metal fan, plastic shroud, predictable results.

Question: Why did you lift your transmission mount, and why two full inches? I get the nagging feeling that you may not have needed to go that far up, and I want to make sure (one of us is wrong - and it's probably me. Enlighten me, please.)

The idea of an EML is to complement a body lift by keeping everything in the same relative location. Since the body gets lifted WRT the vehicle's frame, lifting the engine mounts by a like amount preserves the OEM alignment of things (like the aforementioned cooling fan - which is close to critical) and you'd have big trouble if you didn't.

If you're set on doing this, I'd suggest also ditching the OEM mechanical fan and going with a dual E-fan setup (to get some more clearance, also remove the studs for the fan clutch. Put the pully back on using 1/4"-20x1/2" screws, and just the screw heads will be sticking out - gains you about 3/4".)
Click to expand...

the hood is what worried me, but seems to be a workable issue now that i noticed the part closest to the valvecover is a small structural piece. i bet i could cut it out without issue.

i already have no fan shroud, and it cools just fine, i don't see how an inch will kill the cooling

my t-case mount might not be a full 2 inches, but that was my guess. i wanted a perfectly flat belly. I also clocked my t-case when i did this.

i know why they compliment body lifts, and make the swb jeeps driveline angle more bearable, but i figured i could use this to my advantage.

my main reason for all this is my axle smacking my oil pan and denting the bearing cradle. i also need some motor mounts, and would like to kill 2 birds with one stone here (3 birds if you count the engine block brackets i will be using once im in there.
 
If your rig is a "low-go-faster," have you considered the idea of switching to 2WD? Low and going faster are both usually done on the street, and ditching the live front axle, front driveshaft, transfer case should be good for a couple hundred pounds (that which does not help you go faster makes you go slower.)

Since the dead front beam is smaller than the live front axle, you should eliminate the bumpstop problems as well.

Just another thought - that's all. Usually when I've been tasked to make vehicles go faster, the first thing I do is put them on a diet and try to lose about a quarter of the weight (which gives significant savings and speed increases!)
 
5-90 said:
If your rig is a "low-go-faster," have you considered the idea of switching to 2WD? Low and going faster are both usually done on the street, and ditching the live front axle, front driveshaft, transfer case should be good for a couple hundred pounds (that which does not help you go faster makes you go slower.)

Since the dead front beam is smaller than the live front axle, you should eliminate the bumpstop problems as well.

Just another thought - that's all. Usually when I've been tasked to make vehicles go faster, the first thing I do is put them on a diet and try to lose about a quarter of the weight (which gives significant savings and speed increases!)
Click to expand...

she's a dual purpose rig. originally built for rockcrawling and still into rockcrawling, but lately ive been into speed. i used to run about 2.5" over stock, i bumped it up to about 4.5" and am not comfortable with going higher if i still play in the rocks. I know my cog will change significantly if i raise the drivetrain another inch, but not as significantly if i were to lift the entire jeep that much.

here is the rig in question. she's a little taller now

4144_505044891094_226300669_111177_4848663_n.jpg


IMG_4182.jpg
 
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