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Lifts

AdidasCJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Adelanto, Ca
So im getting real close to doing a lift to my cherokee... Wanted some input on some kits. Im looking at a 4.5in lift with new rear leaf packs. I ve looked at the Rough Country and Rusty's lift kits etc. Im leaning more towards the RC..


What are some of your inputs?!


Thanks for the help.
 
I just finished up with a BDS 4.5 long arm on my daily driver....

ZERO install issues and the Jeep rides better than it did stock (except for the rear swaybar delete)... No caster issues, no death wobble. Rides like butter...

The kit comes with everything except SYE and driveshaft (which you can order from them but they are too expensive).
 
I just finished up with a BDS 4.5 long arm on my daily driver....

ZERO install issues and the Jeep rides better than it did stock (except for the rear swaybar delete)... No caster issues, no death wobble. Rides like butter...

The kit comes with everything except SYE and driveshaft (which you can order from them but they are too expensive).


got a link? im interested in this set up.
 
Most XJ fans in Southern California tend to agree that in general, Rubicon Express suspension parts seem to do best on the average XJ. If you want to refine your purchase even more, seriously consider a hybrid kit from DPG Off Road that combines the best parts from several manufacturers into one kit.

http://www.dpgoff-road.com/site/REXJhybridkits.htm


Rough Country and Rusty's kits are less expensive and many XJ owners have learned the hard way that you get what you pay for. Too many of us have bought lower priced suspension kits only to eventually replace them later with better components from Rubicon Express, JKS and Currie.

Oddly, the cheapest lift for your rig is usually the more expensive one. Why? Because if you build it right the first time, you won't be replacing parts in a couple of years for the components you should have installed in the first place.
 
Most XJ fans in Southern California tend to agree that in general, Rubicon Express suspension parts seem to do best on the average XJ. If you want to refine your purchase even more, seriously consider a hybrid kit from DPG Off Road that combines the best parts from several manufacturers into one kit.

http://www.dpgoff-road.com/site/REXJhybridkits.htm


Rough Country and Rusty's kits are less expensive and many XJ owners have learned the hard way that you get what you pay for. Too many of us have bought lower priced suspension kits only to eventually replace them later with better components from Rubicon Express, JKS and Currie.

Oddly, the cheapest lift for your rig is usually the more expensive one. Why? Because if you build it right the first time, you won't be replacing parts in a couple of years for the components you should have installed in the first place.


very sound advice. Something i am seriously conisdering.
 
hmmm... so im thinking maybe i should put together myown lift with parts from different makers... might be best bet...

Not "might"... assembling your own parts IS the best choice.


A kit makes it easy for a newcomer to lift their vehicle, but kits in general aren't a usually good bargain. For instance, the Rubicon Express swaybar disconnects suck. JKS makes the best disconnect available. Currie control arms offer better flex than the RE arms. The National leaves flex better and give a smoother ride than the RE leaves.

Many of us have gotten the need to challenge ourselves and we tend to go change our suspensions for even taller lifts and bigger tires. In the long run, it's WAY WAY cheaper to build your suspension right the first time so that it's easier to go the places you want to travel.

That being said, a 3 inch lift, 30" tires and limited slip in the rear will allow you to take your rig on most trails in California. The caveat is that you might need to skip the optional harder obstacles and take a few go-arounds than you'd want. With some rock stacking and an occasional strap from your friends, you can probably do 90% of all trails in California. However, many of us find that having the ability to run the other 10% is what costs us the most money. For those that have really good wrenching skills, bolting on parts is rather easy. It's the occasional fabrication and welding skills that allow some to modify their rigs without spending every last penny.

Having learned a lot in the past eight years, I would do things a bit differently than I did. I wouldn't start with a small lift and then spend lots in relifting it. Build your suspension right the first time. It makes it easy to change tires and gears later on. Before you start lifting, answer this question. What do you want to do with your rig? Rock crawling? High speed desert racing? A capable rig to get you to hunting and fishing places? That's the first thing to know... what you want your rig to do. You can then design the lift for what you want to do.


If I did it all over from the start, I'd buy a hybrid kit or just individual components in order to get the best that each company offers. A 4.5" lift and 33" tires make a perfectly versatile rig. Many newbies who started with a budget boost or a 3" lift eventually got bitten by inchitis and ended up relifting their rigs. 33" tires will allow you to run about 95% of all trails in California and still let your wife or girlfriend climb into your Jeep.


I would get:

For the rear leaf packs, SoCalXJ.com guys receive special pricing on a custom designed 10-leaf spring from National. It's a great product and gives about 5.5" of lift. Get shackles from Rusty's or JKS. Front coils from Rubicon Express.

Of course you'll also need swaybar disconnects. While many manufacturers include them in their kits, most of us generally agree the best are made by JKS. BTW, while you've got them on the phone, you might as well order their Super Nerf rock rails. Unless you really feel like gambling, your rocker panel is going to need protection and the Super Nerfs are the best. But there are a couple of local fab guys that make perfectly capable sliders. And it you really want to bombproof your XJ for the long term, consider welding on frame stiffeners first and stiffen up the front frame members, especially where the steering box mounts to.


And if you're going that high of a lift, you *are* going to need a Slip Yoke Eliminator and new rear drive shaft. Older XJs could often be lifted without incurring any driveline vibrations. Newer XJs, 1997+ most always exhibit vibrations on mild lifts and it's pretty much guaranteed to happen on 4.5" and higher. Which kit you should get depends on which transfer case you have. If you have a NP231, get a heavy duty kit from Advanced Adapters or JB Conversions. If you have a NP242, get a Hack 'N Tap kit from Rubicon Express because nobody makes a real heavy duty tailshaft for the 242.

You'll also need a good heavy duty trackbar and drop bracket. Also, you may want to consider adding drop brackets for the lower control arms in you've decided to go with a short arm suspension. Those will restore the streetability of a vehicle that's lifted 4.5". Rubicon Express. And you will need new, longer shocks. Get Bilsteins.

Getting a kit is an easy way of getting most of the components you'll need. Mixing and matching ensures you'll get the best available and only have to buy lift parts once.

If you want to put 33" or taller tires on you rig, then you will need to re-gear both axles. And if you're going to open up your axles to change gears, you might as well install lockers front and rear. Open axles are what keep most rigs from successfully navigating a trail. And you will need 8" wide wheels with the correct backspacing to fit those tires.

You see where I'm going with all of this? Once you start, it's a lot of money to finish. I don't want to scare you, but I do want you to be well informed on what all is needed just to put 33" tires on a Cherokee. The front coils and rear leaves are the easy part. It's everything else that you will need that most newbies don't think of or bother to factor in to their budget. Consider buying used parts to keep the costs down. Many people get their own case of inchitis and are selling their old lift parts. Get used tires and wheels until you get used to your rig or can afford to re-gear. Remember that unless you re-gear, bigger tires will cause you rig to drive like a dog.


Then there's the question of armor. How much and where? No matter what you choose, at the very minimum, you need rock rail protection and tow points front and rear. A gas tank skid is almost mandatory and skid plates for the lower control arms are a very good idea. JKS makes a killer strong transfer case skid plate/crossmember, but you really should protect the transfer case if you're going into the rocks.

You can buy a lot of stuff used, from people parting out their jeeps or people with their own cases of inchitis. I've seen people who have found full Rubicon Express lift kits at a pick a part junk yard. You don't have to buy everything brand new.
 
thanks for the good info. I was just looking at different places to get different things from.. I see how the "kits" do like a quick fix for the bug of lifitng... but waiting and getting peice by peice can make the bigger differance later....


Im looking into the 4.5in lift and running a 33in tire. Im not a complete nub to the off road world just one to the Jeep XJ part of it. And as for the 10% of trails... yea ima get there too! :D

Thanks again for the insight and maybe i will be lifitng in like 2-3 more months while i gather up all the things i need..... then slap it all on at once.
 
Andy pretty much summed it up. A 3 1/2" lift wasn't getting it for me so I built and bought a 6"+ lift. I can now do the trails that before I just stared in awe while others ran them.
 
Andy is correct in knowing what you want in the end and then start shopping. I knew what I wanted in mine and when I saw things for sale that were 1) in my budget 2) would work to get me where I wanted, I got them. Once I got everything that I needed I called it a package and then called for a wrench party.

My jeep is lifted 6", locked both front and rear, geared 4:56, sway bar discos, caged, 33" tires, bumpers, alloy shafts in the rear, seats, roof rack, drop brackets/braces, currie adj arms uppers and lowers, high lift and prob a few other things that I am missing.

Somebody elses take offs are not necessarily bad, it means that they decided to go another direction. I prob have in my rig what I could sell it for. I have alot of manual labor hours in it that I cant recover. Now if I bought all the parts new I would have 3 to 4 times the cost but waiting will save loads of $$$.

Patience and dillegence will get you a long way. My rig is not the most capable rig but it will get me 100% of the places that I want to go.

Good luck on your build and always feel free to ask questions.

Just remember that just because one says use RE or one says use RC or rustys, that is just their induvidual opinion and should no way sway how you feel about a product.

I have a mixture of just about everyones product in my jeep.

Leep
 
Good advice :).
 
got my jeep back from my roll cage guy tonight (ask about it). and will be installing the tomkin long arm kit i bought soon.
 
just a little input from the all unknowing one. ive had my TNT long arm kit on my xj for a while, took it through some really nast trails, and it has not broken, cracked, or failed me once. it is custom made so you know its going to be tough. the only thing is itll run you about 2g's to 2.5 g's depending on if your a naxja member or not. if so you will have a % discount if you ask for it. other than that the lift took a while to install. had to cut off lower control arm brackets off of body and make some new holes on the pinch seam and rail, but in the end it was really worth it. oh uh also the kit excludes shocks so you might want to look for some of those aswell.
 
i am currently running 33 tsl's on 4.5 rough country. i have had alot of fun wheeling it and bought everthing used like you said. but i am currently wanting to relift my xj to fit 37's and would like to know how big of a lift i would need to clear such tires. my truck is already trimmed. i am looking forward to building a custom long arm kit but i dont know how big to lift it yet. if you have read/expierenced someone w/ 37's i would love soem info.
 
This thread has provided some serious wealth of information!! Thank you!!

You have to look at it both ways also.... I always ask myself how much am I going to wheel and what do I plan on wheeling?

I am currently in school and working with a really low pay and sigh...... Living at home.
So if you are like me and weigh your options with school, low pay and wanting to move out a kit for the $$ really lets you do most things. Until you start to get really serious with wheeling and rock crawling.

But if you want to do it piece by piece it's cheaper up front but you will spend a lot more in the end.

BTW I got a pair of JKS Quick Discos pretty much brand new in the box off a guy on Craigslist for $80.00!!
New OEM upper Control Arms for 20.00 from a guy on craigslist.
Chrysler 8.25 with a locker and freshly painted for $125.00 <---- From my buddy!
 
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