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FINALLY bought an XJ, now for a few questions...

anthrax323

anthrax323

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
At long last, I'm the proud owner of a black 2001 4-door XJ!

cherokee.jpg


Ended up paying $5,900 for it... 126k miles, generally in great shape with a few minor issues thus far that I'm more than happy to deal with. However, something struck me...

I noticed an extra radiator in front of the primary radiator at the front of the car. It appears to be a relatively slender radiator (maybe only 4 passes) that is mounted fairly low, pretty much right at the bumper line. The Cherokee also has what appears to be a factory hitch based on pictures I've seen elsewhere.

Is this a pretty solid indication of the tow package? Aside from testing the gear ratios and mere speculation based on the presence of the transmission cooler (I think) and the hitch, is there any conclusive way to identify whether or not this thing has the towing package (no, I do not have the original order/build sheet)? I looked up the XJ VIN schema but don't see any indicator of this option. I can take more pictures if need be, but I'm definitely curious.

Thanks in advance!
 
I agree it sounds like a tranny cooler. Follow the lines and see where they go. As for the factory hitch you show us no picture of it so it is difficult to say about it being factory or aftermarket.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. Here are pics of the radiator and hitch:

cherokee1.jpg


cherokee2.jpg


I just noticed this afternoon that the box surrounding the electrical connector on the hitch is smashed in a fair amount (and it looks like the socket surround was broken and punched inside, although the connector itself appears to be usable). That and some other subtle contours on the rear door are beginning to indicate that the thing was rear-ended at some point in its life.

Regardless, do these pictures seem to indicate I have the towing package?
 
you have the tranny cooler and hitch so probably

I wouldn't worry about the dented trailer box, those are perfectly designed to smack into stumps

btw the hitch is a basic aftermarket deal and not specific to jeep
 
Thanks for the input guys, I'm quite happy thus far. I'm hoping that in the not too distant future I can snag a set of 16" Moabs off a pre-2007 Rubicon and some form of a 4.5" lift, followed by a Rigid FbW to get this thing off on the right foot. I'm undoubtedly a newbie to this arena, so there will be many, many questions over the next several years. The last time I owned an SUV or truck of any kind was nearly 8 years ago, and it was a 1987 Grand Wagoneer (good lord I miss that truck).

I also found myself bored and in need of a massive headache, so I did the math and determined that I do indeed have 3.73s in this thing (2,000 RPM @ 45 MPH in 3rd w/ 225/75R15 tires if anyone wants to double-check). Hells yeah for the towing package.

Are the 3.73s any stronger than the typical 3.55s?
 
The particular gear set doesn't make the D35 any stronger/weaker by much. If you're going to go bigger with tires, you'll want to gear to 4.11's or 4.56's at least...just to keep things streetable and highway drivable. I went to 4.56's with 33" tires...put the gearing back to near stock (based on speedometer readings).
 
You're in luck. That is the corporate 8.25. The cover is symmetrical bolt pattern. The Dana shape is non-symmetrical.

Just don't let her overheat and keep an eye on your coolant level. Biggest weakness of the '00/'01 is the 0331 head cracking problem. Symptoms are using coolant and the oil filler cap collects milky residue on the bottom.
 
Yeah, I'll be checking that in just a bit (still at work). Based on my aforementioned math, though, the production information found on Wikipedia, and you guys' input, I'm already almost 100% certain that I've got the 3.73s. If you want to do the math again, I was pushing 2,000 RPM @ 45 MPH in 3rd gear (1:1) on 225/75R15 tires (with ever-so-slightly positive throttle to make sure the torque converter was engaged). Never hurts to double check though :D

On that note, what lifts would you guys recommend? I know it's a huge debate all its own, so I might just open a new thread... If you think that's the wiser route, please don't provide an answer - just tell me to open a new thread :). I'm looking at a 3.5" to 4.5" lift to keep it near stock but with as much flexibility as possible... This thing won't be a crawler, more of a go-anywhere weekend warrior vehicle.
 
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anthrax323 said:
Yeah, I'll be checking that in just a bit (still at work).
Click to expand...

You mean to say you aren't working??? :D

My calculations show 3.73 as well from the #'s your giving. You should have a lock-up torque converter, so the torque converter should be at 1:1. I have a '98 with the tow package and I have 3.55's.

I would recommend doing a search on lifts before posting a new thread. Look at "Sticky's" guide to searching at the beginning of the thread listings.
 
Let's put all your math calculations aside for a minute. The odds are rather slim that you have a 3.73 because of a couple things...first, it was not offered as an option in the 2001 year and two, the trailer tow package did not include a gear change from the standard 3.55 but only included the HD transmission cooler, a class III receiver hitch. and a seven pin trailer hookup. If you want to verify your gearing, jack up your rear and count one tire revolution versus your rear pinion yoke revolutions.
 
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