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So help me fix my xj? Once and for all.

hupo224

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Manchester, NJ
I'm trying to write up a list of everything I need to fix my XJ. (Parts, etc).

1998 Cherokee Sport 4dr 4wd

I will start with everything I can hear and notice.

1. Easy xjer helped with my alignment a tad bit. But For somereason when im going 40+ if I let go of my steering wheel it turns to the right very slightly causing my truck to "turn to the right" slightly. It seems I have to fight it to stay on the road at higher speeds. This problem has been going on since I got my track bar re-heated/re-bent and my new steering stabilizer (Offroading incident)

2. After that incident as well my airbag light is now on and now I have "manual" turn signals. I think that maybe my clockspring is broke?

3. My real tailgate can be a bit of a bitch to open. You have to push in real fast then pull out to open the door. And I have to close it on a piece of paper towel to stop the door from clunking when I hit bumps.

4. From what easy xjer told me I got 3 55 gears in my front end. I would like to learn about the different gears and what I would needs if I get bigger tires and lift. I would like to know what axles I have and if they are good.

5. On my sway bar, I was replacing the bushing and as I was putting my sway bar back on, I snapped the weld that you bolt the bolt into. So I have 3 good bolts and one loose bolt. I believe this may be making most of the sound while hitting bumps and on the trail. I'll take pictures.

6. My 98 has 260k miles on it. I got it about 2-3 months ago. I would like to do a tune up. But havent had the funds to support it yet. Is there a comprehensive guide to really tuning up my truck?

7. Could the rear of my truck be very stiff? My truck is just very loud. I dont believe my truck has ever really been taken off road. Just freeway mileage.


PICS!!!!!!!:farmer:
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and last but not least, a kitteh.
knitted_kitteh.jpg



Thank you all.
 
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1. Easy xjer helped with my alignment a tad bit. But For somereason when im going 40+ if I let go of my steering wheel it turns to the right very slightly causing my truck to "turn to the right" slightly. It seems I have to fight it to stay on the road at higher speeds. This problem has been going on since I got my track bar re-heated/re-bent and my new steering stabilizer (Offroading incident)
I'd bet on an alignment helping you out a lot here. You probably knocked something else out of whack at the same time and it never got fixed. I think I might also see a bend in that control arm you took a picture of, but I'm not entirely sure. Check it.

2. After that incident as well my airbag light is now on and now I have "manual" turn signals. I think that maybe my clockspring is broke?
The turn signal issue you can probably fix by replacing the switch unit, I used a 20 dollar one from a local junkyard and mine works great now. You'll need a long T20 driver to disassemble the steering column cover and a tamperproof T20 driver ($20 in a set of about 35 tamperproof bits from Sears) to remove the switch from the steering column, along with (I believe) approx 6-8 mm nutdriver to remove the connector from the switch, just bring a set of nutdrivers or small sockets.

3. My real tailgate can be a bit of a bitch to open. You have to push in real fast then pull out to open the door. And I have to close it on a piece of paper towel to stop the door from clunking when I hit bumps.
This sounds like the rubber bumpers or the plastic screw-in alignment stops have gotten broken, fallen off, or are misadjusted. Five bucks at a junkyard or 20-30 at discountjeepparts/teamcherokee/rockauto should fix this up for you.

4. From what easy xjer told me I got 3 55 gears in my front end. I would like to learn about the different gears and what I would needs if I get bigger tires and lift. I would like to know what axles I have and if they are good.
There are a few FAQs in this subforum and others here that will go over this in detail - they'll say it way better than I can.

5. On my sway bar, I was replacing the bushing and as I was putting my sway bar back on, I snapped the weld that you bolt the bolt into. So I have 3 good bolts and one loose bolt. I believe this may be making most of the sound while hitting bumps and on the trail. I'll take pictures.
Where does the sound seem to come from? I'm not sure that single bolt missing can make that much noise, I know most of the noises I had were related to my broken exhaust hangars - welded some new ones on and replaced my muffler and everything was great. To fix that bolt though, what I'd do is weld a new nut into the frame. EDIT: I also see that the lower ends of your anti-sway bar linkages are looking pretty loose, check them - grab some pb blaster, a breaker bar, a socket set, get the linkages (the set is $15 from rockauto for both sides) and go at it. It took me about 30min to replace mine and got rid of some pretty horrible grinding/clunking noises when turning and going over small bumps. If the rubber bushings at the top ends of the linkages are worn out or you see shiny metal on the points around the bottom ends of the linkages, this definitely will help.

6. My 98 has 260k miles on it. I got it about 2-3 months ago. I would like to do a tune up. But havent had the funds to support it yet. Is there a comprehensive guide to really tuning up my truck?
oil change, flush your coolant, flush out your transmission if you really feel like it, put some seafoam in it (via the brake boost vacuum line while it's running, many writeups exist on this), replace your rotor/distributor cap/plug wires/plugs, replace air filter, make sure your tire pressure is right, check for leaks (compression test? not sure what this is called, you put 100psi on it and see what it leaks down to, diagnoses leaky valves/cracked manifolds/worn piston rings etc), and change the differential and transfer case lube. I'm pretty sure ignition timing and such is controlled by the PCM these days so there isn't much to do there, but you can also have a local parts store read any codes out of your PCM via ODB II and see if they indicate anything else needing replacing or repairing.

7. Could the rear of my truck be very stiff? My truck is just very loud. I dont believe my truck has ever really been taken off road. Just freeway mileage.
I'd bet on that muffler being bad or you having a rusted through exhaust pipe somewhere... I could be wrong though. Crawl under it while it's running (after a cold start - don't want to get burned) and look/feel for exhaust leaks.

PS, I think you have a D35 or D35c rear axle, same as a lot of stock XJs without the towing package. They're not all that great for much of anything offroad as many people will tell you. You almost certainly have a D30 front
axle unless someone else replaced the original. If you can get a copy of the Jeep Parts Catalog for your model year it will be VERY helpful to you, I'm not sure if it's available from Jeep/MOPAR but it can be found online pretty easily if they don't sell it. Mine indicates that if the diameter of your rear axle tubes is 2.5", you have a D35 axle, if it is 3" you have a Chrysler 8.25". If you had a cast, D-shaped differential cover you would have a D44.
 
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"There are a few FAQs in this subforum and others here that will go over this in detail - they'll say it way better than I can."

Can you point me to them?

"Where does the sound seem to come from? I'm not sure that single bolt missing can make that much noise, I know most of the noises I had were related to my broken exhaust hangars - welded some new ones on and replaced my muffler and everything was great. To fix that bolt though, what I'd do is weld a new nut into the frame."

Easy xjer actually just replaced one of the hangers. Noise is still there. I cant quite describe it. I get a rattle noice and on some hefty bumps I get what feels to be a knock from the right side? Like something is hitting.

"oil change, flush your coolant, flush out your transmission if you really feel like it, put some seafoam in it (via the brake boost vacuum line while it's running, many writeups exist on this), replace your rotor/distributor cap/plug wires/plugs, replace air filter, make sure your tire pressure is right, check for leaks (compression test? not sure what this is called, you put 100psi on it and see what it leaks down to, diagnoses leaky valves/cracked manifolds/worn piston rings etc), and change the differential and transfer case lube. I'm pretty sure ignition timing and such is controlled by the PCM these days so there isn't much to do there, but you can also have a local parts store read any codes out of your PCM via ODB II and see if they indicate anything else needing replacing or repairing."

I'm gonna need a bit of help haha.

"I'd bet on that muffler being bad or you having a rusted through exhaust pipe somewhere... I could be wrong though. Crawl under it while it's running (after a cold start - don't want to get burned) and look/feel for exhaust leaks."

Ill check this out.

"PS, I think you have a D35 or D35c rear axle, same as a lot of stock XJs without the towing package. They're not all that great for much of anything offroad as many people will tell you. You almost certainly have a D30 front axle unless someone else replaced the original."

Time to look for a 8.8?
 
5. On my sway bar, I was replacing the bushing and as I was putting my sway bar back on, I snapped the weld that you bolt the bolt into. So I have 3 good bolts and one loose bolt. I believe this may be making most of the sound while hitting bumps and on the trail. I'll take pictures.

your best bet would be to knock out that weld nut you busted. take off your front bumper and feed a new bolt thru the inside and just put a nut on the outside
now then because mine didnt break so im not a 100%, if you have a hole thru the side or somewhere big enough the bolt can fit thru. tie fishing line or something similar to the bolt and just feed it through that way. thats what i had to do for my rear shock bolts after i broke those off.
 
Time to look for a 8.8?

either an 8.8 or chrysler 8.25. depending on how big your planning to go but from my understanding the 8.8 isnt all that much stronger than a 8.25, and i see people wheeling 8.25's on 35's all the time.

with the 8.25 it will be a simple bolt up installation

p.s. act like you take care of your xj, wash it before you take pictures =)
 
THere is only one way to fix it "once and for all". The goal of this forum though, is to keep your XJ out of the junkyard (except maybe to get parts from already deceased XJ's). With 260k miles, and limited funds, have you done an engine compression check yet? This should be done before deciding on committing more money.

Search wheel alignment to find the link on how to do that properly. That is basically free.

Comprehensive guide to tune up '98: New spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, rotor. Tune up done.

Maintenance: Change all fluids. Engine oil, dif. oils, transfer case fluid, tranny fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid.
 
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either an 8.8 or chrysler 8.25. depending on how big your planning to go but from my understanding the 8.8 isnt all that much stronger than a 8.25, and i see people wheeling 8.25's on 35's all the time.

with the 8.25 it will be a simple bolt up installation

p.s. act like you take care of your xj, wash it before you take pictures =)
(I just came back from the sand pits.) (I take the most care of her as I can with 0 dollars in the wallet) Ill look into this.

5. On my sway bar, I was replacing the bushing and as I was putting my sway bar back on, I snapped the weld that you bolt the bolt into. So I have 3 good bolts and one loose bolt. I believe this may be making most of the sound while hitting bumps and on the trail. I'll take pictures.

your best bet would be to knock out that weld nut you busted. take off your front bumper and feed a new bolt thru the inside and just put a nut on the outside
now then because mine didnt break so im not a 100%, if you have a hole thru the side or somewhere big enough the bolt can fit thru. tie fishing line or something similar to the bolt and just feed it through that way. thats what i had to do for my rear shock bolts after i broke those off.

Any other input?
THere is only one way to fix it "once and for all". The goal of this forum though, is to keep your XJ out of the junkyard (except maybe to get parts from already deceased XJ's). With 260k miles, and limited funds, have you done an engine compression check yet? This should be done before deciding on committing more money.

Search wheel alignment to find the link on how to do that properly. That is basically free.

Comprehensive guide to tune up '98: New spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, rotor. Tune up done.

Maintenance: Change all fluids. Engine oil, dif. oils, transfer case fluid, tranny fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid.
My engine runs sound. I've yet to do a compression test. (yet)
 
Based on the picture you have a Corporate 8.25 axel, your good to go. no benifit to change it if staying under 35" tires. If you bent a control arm I would replace it.
 
Ok you said you bent the trackbar, are your wheels centered. If you didn't get the bend right they will be off to one side or the other. If you staightend it with heat, you could have softend the steel and it could be flexing. Driveway alignment may not be enough to cure your pulling issue. You can't adjust the tow for each wheel independantly that way
 
That is very true. My track arm could be bad from bending it back. I forgot to mention I have no money. I'm waiting on a call from apple. I should get a call by this weekend they will call.

And to really diagnose all the knocks klunks and that rattle noice someone should be with me when I'm on the trail.
 
+1 on the rear axle, it's a chrysler 8.25.
Looks like you have the standard for that general year range, high-pinion dana 30 in the front, chrysler 8.25 in the rear. With the 3.55 gears, I wouldn't worry about the gears unless you go to 31" tires or larger, or axles unless you go to 35" tires or larger.

Fixing/replacing the damaged sway bar connection will do a world of good for your XJ's driving characteristics.
 
I would advise against a transmission fluid flush at 260K. There's no telling what kind of crud may have built up inside the transmission and flushing it runs the risk of breaking that crud loose and getting it into places you don't want it, IMO. I would do a simple fluid and filter change however. Get the filter kit and a few quarts of Dexron IV (I think they're up to IV now). The kit will come with a new transmission pan gasket also. Drop the pan, change the filter, throw the pan back on, top off with transmission fluid, done.

Looks like an Chrysler 8.25 rear axle to me, which is good..they're pretty darn reliable.

As for the clunks and noises...well...it's a Jeep. They're noisy, creaky, and funny...but they're reliable. At that kind of mileage, your clunks could be coming from everything from worn bushings (control arms, shocks, etc etc), to that loose bolt in the sway bar (speed bumps and other bumps in the road tend to bring out the best in sway bars).
 
Any other input?


im just giving you crap about it being dirty, anyways... i dont know how else to explain it... umm this is what i did with my rear shock bolts.
1 took the shock out
2. got a punch and big f-in hamemr
3. centered the punch on the broken bolt inside the weld nut
4 started hitting the nut/bolt until it came out
5 then i threaded the string around the threads 5-6 times thne tied the string to it to hold it in place
6. fed the string through a nice sized hole until i found the hole the bolt had to go thru then i just pulled the bolt thru the hole in your case the existing sway bar hole that doesnt have a weld nut on it any longer and put a nut on the outside and bolted it up as normal

if you have one of those little wire snake 4 claw grabber things( help me out here with the name) it will be easier to grab the string to pull it to where it needs to go.

you can either do that or what alot of other people have done and just drilled out the center of the bolt and retapped the threads so you can put in a new bolt.
 
im just giving you crap about it being dirty, anyways... i dont know how else to explain it... umm this is what i did with my rear shock bolts.
1 took the shock out
2. got a punch and big f-in hamemr
3. centered the punch on the broken bolt inside the weld nut
4 started hitting the nut/bolt until it came out
5 then i threaded the string around the threads 5-6 times thne tied the string to it to hold it in place
6. fed the string through a nice sized hole until i found the hole the bolt had to go thru then i just pulled the bolt thru the hole in your case the existing sway bar hole that doesnt have a weld nut on it any longer and put a nut on the outside and bolted it up as normal

if you have one of those little wire snake 4 claw grabber things( help me out here with the name) it will be easier to grab the string to pull it to where it needs to go.

you can either do that or what alot of other people have done and just drilled out the center of the bolt and retapped the threads so you can put in a new bolt.

The bolt isnt broken. Its kinda loosely stuck in there. I guess I will try to drill it out.
+1 on the rear axle, it's a chrysler 8.25.
Looks like you have the standard for that general year range, high-pinion dana 30 in the front, chrysler 8.25 in the rear. With the 3.55 gears, I wouldn't worry about the gears unless you go to 31" tires or larger, or axles unless you go to 35" tires or larger.

Fixing/replacing the damaged sway bar connection will do a world of good for your XJ's driving characteristics.
Thank you and good to hear.
I would advise against a transmission fluid flush at 260K. There's no telling what kind of crud may have built up inside the transmission and flushing it runs the risk of breaking that crud loose and getting it into places you don't want it, IMO. I would do a simple fluid and filter change however. Get the filter kit and a few quarts of Dexron IV (I think they're up to IV now). The kit will come with a new transmission pan gasket also. Drop the pan, change the filter, throw the pan back on, top off with transmission fluid, done.

Looks like an Chrysler 8.25 rear axle to me, which is good..they're pretty darn reliable.

As for the clunks and noises...well...it's a Jeep. They're noisy, creaky, and funny...but they're reliable. At that kind of mileage, your clunks could be coming from everything from worn bushings (control arms, shocks, etc etc), to that loose bolt in the sway bar (speed bumps and other bumps in the road tend to bring out the best in sway bars).
I get the creeks. I'm fine with that I accepted its a jeep thing. But the clunk sounds unhealthy to my truck. Almost cringing everytime I hear those noises.
 
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I get the creeks. I'm fine with that I accepted its a jeep thing. But the clunk sounds unhealthy to my truck. Almost cringing everytime I hear those noises.

Take a look at your other bushings then...especially control arm's..upper and lower. If they're severely cracked/broken, that could be the source of your clunks. Also...what shape are your ball joints in?
 
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