My rear CCV orifice is stuck...and breaking

Hey guys. I haven't been here in a long time. I've had non-locatable small oil leaks for ages. I just discovered the rear CCV orifice being clogged may be the problem, but I can't get it out.

I tried doing the twist & pull as hard as I can. It came up a few mm, but wouldn't release. Then I put a screw driver under it. Came up more, but the flange broke. So, I used two screwdrivers. It got pretty high, but the flange broke in two more places! I think maybe the grommet might be hardened. I'm running out of places to pry!

The front one also wouldn't lift out, but pried out with a screwdriver relatively easily. No problems with that one. The pipe from the rear valve is also clear. When I run the motor, I feel vaccum where it connects to the intake manifold, but feel nothing come out of the rear CCV.

So...how the HELL do I get this bastard out?!

I just did this on my 2000. I didn't think it would come out either and I didn't want to break it. I rolled it around with a rotating motion and eventually the flange and the grommet came out together. I couldn't get it back in like that though. After trying for a while, I used a little screwdriver to get the grommet off of the flange. Then I put the grommet in first and got the flange to go back in, again with a rolling motion.

So, short story -- try to get the grommet and flange to come out all at once. Strong rolling motion.

Dang - winterbeater is on the board!

On my TJ, I smashed the crap out of both the CCV/PCV valve elbow thingys. This was after breaking the lip in lots of places, and lots of other tries with all of my tools.
After smashing them into little pieces, and finally getting them out, I took the bus to NAPTHA and they had nothing for me. I rode a little further to SCHUCKER auto, and they didn't have the elbows either. I broke down and went to the dealer.
For less than $7, they sold me both of them.
I proceeded the same way with my 88 XJ, and again, less than $7.
Call your jeep dealer, make sure they have a couple, then proceed with BFH.

If I bash 'em in, don't parts fall down into the rockers? Do the new elbows at the dealer come with new grommets? Mine are pretty stiff.

The stiff grommet is the whole problem. You got it lubed up some with oil already don't you? Usually, they are already oily enough. Roll it around until the grommet lip starts to come out of the valve cover.

Yeah- I put a little oil around the elbow, and a tiny squirt of PB blaster, too...I thought it might soften up the plastic a bit.

So, you're saying pry up the grommet with the elbow still in it? I didn't think it'd fit that way. I'll give it a shot tonight though.

the dealer will sell you the elbows, not the grommets.
I didn't get any plastic inside the cover by breaking it with pliers/vise grip. that way, I had the little piece held in the tool. Its a little tricky, but not that bad. I just took my time. once the plastic is out, the rubber part is easy. After I got the rubber out, I put the elbows into the rubber grommet BEFORE inserting into the cover, with grease. They are stubborn little bastages.
I also asked the tech at the dealer, and he said that the reason that NAPA, etc dont sell them is because they don't fail. If they get clogged, compressed air will clean them out. Apparently, they don't have a ball valve in them like the old days. they are just hollow tubes.
Good luck

There's a write up with part numbers to order the whole rear line and grommets from moparonline.

You could also just yank out as much as you can and pull the valve cover and finish cleaning it out.