how to take driver's window control module apart?

I've been having problems with my passenger doors (all 3 of them) not being able to independently roll their windows up & down, but it's an intermittent problem. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. I've read on here about it being related to a defective/short in the module, so I pulled the module out & took out the screws holding the front & back half together. I tried prying the tabs out & separating the front from the back, but it didn't want to come apart. Since the controls work from my driver's position, I don't want to destroy the whole module in the process of taking it apart. Is there a trick to pulling it apart? Of course, I want to pull it apart to attempt to repair/clean/re-solder contact (or jumper them). I did this kind of fix on my '99 Tahoe tail light module, and I repaired the thing by using short wire jumpers & soldering them to the PC board to which the lights were mounted. Never had a problem since, so I figured I could try to do the same here.

Any ideas? I know the options to replace the whole module are: find one online, go to the JY, or pay $$$ @ the stealership. I'm trying to save money and do a repair I should be able to do myself.

Thanks for the input!

My guess is that you're in uncharted territory here. How about some more pictures as the project goes on?

Mine is doing the same thing from what I have read online is that all the power from the other windows comes from the drivers side. Where the problem is at the rubber boot between the door and frame usu ally also when this happens the drivers side speaker will soon go out as well.

this is exactly what's happening to mine as well as my FIL. let us know what you figure out.

You hit the nail on the head - my driver's side speaker is not working, but once in a while comes on. Any more info on why this happens? I have heat shrink tubing, a heat gun, soldering iron, etc, so I can make a clean repair. Is it helpful to wrap the wires with either tape or a wire loom?

This was the state of the door's electrical issues when I bought it, and the window regulator needed to be replaced in the driver's door. The seller provided a new regulator, and my brother, the mechanic, installed the it, but didn't test for or notice the speaker & window electrical issues until he'd buttoned it all back up. Anyway, I'll post up pics if there's any way I can show visible damage to help the next person with these problems.

Here's the inside of the door, as I've taken it apart & have yet to replace the speaker & work on the wires.

So are you really sure you need to take that switch apart? Have you tested the functions with a meter?

To fix the window issue you don't have to take the switch apart...
http://soxja.org/images/pics/Bypass/Bypass.html

Not that you can't take the module apart for a fun project, hopefully it doesn't break on you. :cheers:

Mine crapped out Monday, I took it apart to figure out what was wrong and the contacts were burnt/corroded/dirty. Problem was I broke it taking it apart, I've got it "sorta" back in there temporarily while I wait for the replacement module ($65 or so). They are on Ebay, I don't use paypal so I found it there, went to the online store and bought it with amex. It shipped the next day.

If you're taking the module apart, the black covers on the buttons come off but you'll probably bust some of the button pivots (you'll see...) also some springs go flying. I figured it was a more long term fix to replace it.

Mark

98XJSport said:

To fix the window issue you don't have to take the switch apart...
http://soxja.org/images/pics/Bypass/Bypass.html

Not that you can't take the module apart for a fun project, hopefully it doesn't break on you. :cheers:

Click to expand...

.

I'll take a look & see if the lock out switch is the issue, but if it's not, and I find other wiring shorts, I'll fix them. Good info - pictures tell 1000 words, as they say, and a pictorial how-to is simply the best.

mfascuba said:

Mine crapped out Monday, I took it apart to figure out what was wrong and the contacts were burnt/corroded/dirty. Problem was I broke it taking it apart, I've got it "sorta" back in there temporarily while I wait for the replacement module ($65 or so). They are on Ebay, I don't use paypal so I found it there, went to the online store and bought it with amex. It shipped the next day.

If you're taking the module apart, the black covers on the buttons come off but you'll probably bust some of the button pivots (you'll see...) also some springs go flying. I figured it was a more long term fix to replace it.

Mark

Click to expand...

I found an intact driver's door panel @ my local JY, and he's holding it for me, so I can pull the switch module if I wreck mine. I like to tinker with the stuff, and if it's not too expensive, it's worth breaking it to find out how it works & how I can make it better.

Thanks again for the info and advice!

From how you described the problem, I'd be surprised if it wasn't the lockout stwich. In that case the used stwich you get may have the same problem eventually. I can see the need for the lockout if you have small children but many here choose tho do the by-pass. As to the speaker, check it along with the wiring. Speakers don't last forever either..HTH...Al

Same problem here- intermittent functioning of the 3 other windows. Traced it back to the lockout switch. I tried to take it apart- got the screws out and pulled the clips off, but in the end chickened out and put it back together. I did hose it down with electrical cleaner- did nothing. I can make the other windows work if I tap repeatedly on the lockout, but slam the door one time and it is broken again. Was hoping that one of you would have taken it apart and found a good fix for it. May have to do the jumper wire.

Regarding the door speakers, I had one go out as well. Turns out it was corrosion on the plug. Removed the plug and cleaned the connections with a small file. A little electrical contact cleaner and voila, works again!

I figured it out & fixed my original module, as well as the spare module I got from the JY. Here are the pics of the latest on the project: http://www.flickr.com/photos/we3pollards/sets/72157617926981883/

suprbst looks like we have more than xj's in common. i am also a proud owner of a classic mustang i have a 65 rag top

Yeah, that's my wife's '66 notchback with 289 & 4-speed. Growing up, my bro was always the Mustang guy, while I happened to start out in a '66 VW Bug. I just learned to work on & drive what I had, then sold that & bought a '69 VW Squareback. I sure wish I'd gotten into Mustangs back then, as the thrill of driving one - especially after you start upgrading things - is much more of a return on investment than any money I spent on the bug.

Sweet! Thanks for posting this. Now I'm all out of excuses for not fixing mine...

suprbst said:

I figured it out & fixed my original module, as well as the spare module I got from the JY. Here are the pics of the latest on the project: http://www.flickr.com/photos/we3pollards/sets/72157617926981883/

Click to expand...

Thanks for the pics! I read about this when I bought my 98 but didn't see pics of the solder joint issue. When I popped mine open, it didn't look like a problem and when using the DMM, it worked fine, but didn't solve the problem.

Because of your pics, I checked my pics and now see the same issue. It is like you took a picture of my unit!

My issue is that the lights come on but when you activate the window at the door, the light goes out and no action takes place. One passenger did lower there window but couldn't roll it up. There are other root causes of this problem including a broken wire that runs between the door and the body. I haven't spent time on this issue enough yet, but hope it is the door module.

For those of you venturing at disassembling the module, you do not need to remove any of the switche for the mirror, just the the window control switches.

I thought I'd update y'all on the result of fixing both my original & the junkyard switch - they both eventually failed, but not the lockout switch - this time it was the driver's side front & rear window "up" controls... I fixed the solder points for the lockout switch, but the soldering for the rest of the switches is on the other side of the PC board, and I didn't want to break the board pulling it off the backing (I might try it when I get bored). I ended up just getting tired of the whole module being unreliable & failing further, so I found a decent price ($65) on a new module - made in China, but the OEM one is made in Mexico, so whatever - as long as it works. Here's where I found mine. Hope this helps someone who's having trouble with their original module - in the long run, it's much easier to skip wasting money @ the junkyard on an equally old/used switch module & just get a new one - unless you like taking the door panel off over & over.

Sorry to hear that your switch modules continued to deteriorate after fixing the lockout issue. Hope I don't run into the same problem after fixing mine. I have my original and a spare to mess around with so we'll see what happens. Currently my spare is the "good" one because the auto up function still works on the driver's front window switch.

Any issues with your aftermarket switch from the above link? Looking around on their website I found they also have 97+ regulators for $67.20 each or $100.50 for the pair with free shipping. Awesome deal if they're not big hunks of junk. I just might have to try them out next time my window bracket breaks on me...