ugh, big electrical problem

battery is good, alternator is good, ignition switch is good, everything in the PDC is good, all but a few (non important) fuses are good, but ABSOLUTELY no power in the cab, anywhere!

Someone suggested the starter solenoid is out, but I don't know...

Oh and I checked all of my grounds and powers, every single connection in my harness, pulled apart the fuse box bung, cleaned it, and hooked it back up...

I'm not about to start throwing parts at it, have a trip to make next weekend and need the money too much.

So... any suggestions? I just need someone to bounce ideas off of!

Thanks,
-random

Mr_Random said:

battery is good, alternator is good, ignition switch is good, everything in the PDC is good, all but a few (non important) fuses are good, but ABSOLUTELY no power in the cab, anywhere!

Someone suggested the starter solenoid is out, but I don't know...

Oh and I checked all of my grounds and powers, every single connection in my harness, pulled apart the fuse box bung, cleaned it, and hooked it back up...

I'm not about to start throwing parts at it, have a trip to make next weekend and need the money too much.

So... any suggestions? I just need someone to bounce ideas off of!

Thanks,
-random

Click to expand...

I have an idea! What year/engine XJ?

Now that I have tried to be funny--it doesn't always work--should I assume that you have a DMM or a test light available?

Again, don't know what year you have but the C101 connector where the wiring harness goes through the firewall would be a suspect.

Do you have a fuse block down by the driver's left foot? They will often corrode on the backside something fierce.

Just how far from the battery can you still get 12v?

Just a test light currently, it seems I can get through the PDC and to the alternator, that's it for 12v, anything on the driver side of the engine bay is dead.

86 XJ 2.5L. Thing is; it thinks that it's a 94 YJ. Ha, I've rewired the entire engine bay, so I know every connection in there is sound (I tested them anyways). The entire interior and the starter are the only things I haven't modified.

As I tried to explain, I took apart C101 and cleaned it up, it may still be the culprit as I was desparate and had been sitting in a gas station parking lot for two hours already.

I dropped the steering column to check the ignition switch, it wasn't hot and didn't stink of burnt electronics, so I'm pretty sure it's still good (it was replaced 3 years ago I believe).

The only sign of life I could get out of anything was the occasional ignition buzzer, and even then I had to have the key in the EXACT place to activate it. It wouldn't work every time either.

Dang, forgot to elaborate that I had just driven through a massive rain storm (monsoon season here) and about a million puddles. I DID find moisture below C101, but it wasn't extreme, and when I pulled it apart it didn't seem to be too corroded. I will attempt to clean it better in two days.

thanks for any help you can give.

Took a look into a wiring print for your beast.

From the looks of it, you could have some toasted fuseable links.

They MAY be passing some voltage but are not passing any current.

I would try fuseable links D and E first, but to CYA be preventive and replace all of them.


Good luck.

Buzzstrike said:

Took a look into a wiring print for your beast.

From the looks of it, you could have some toasted fuseable links.

They MAY be passing some voltage but are not passing any current.

I would try fuseable links D and E first, but to CYA be preventive and replace all of them.


Good luck.

Click to expand...

No fuseable links on the engine harness of the 94 YJ, just the PDC and the under-foot fuse box.

I'll check C101 again and test the starter solenoid.

Thanks for trying.

Mr_Random said:

I dropped the steering column to check the ignition switch, it wasn't hot and didn't stink of burnt electronics, so I'm pretty sure it's still good (it was replaced 3 years ago I believe).

The only sign of life I could get out of anything was the occasional ignition buzzer, and even then I had to have the key in the EXACT place to activate it. It wouldn't work every time either.

Click to expand...

It's good to hear that the switch wasn't hot to the touch and didn't smell, but that doesn't mean its good. The intermittent iginiton buzzer makes me continue to suspect the ignition switch. You have to test it with your meter or circuit checker...as you already know, power/voltage goes to the ignition switch and then thru it when you turn it...so I would start there and check in both directions...checking for input voltage and output voltages...

I'm not trying to be an ass-hat but did you clean the battery contacts? I've bought a few vehicles that they put a new battery in and it would have some power but the minute you'd load it the power would go out. I cleaned the cable ends and battery terminals.

Jeepm@n said:

I'm not trying to be an ass-hat but did you clean the battery contacts? I've bought a few vehicles that they put a new battery in and it would have some power but the minute you'd load it the power would go out. I cleaned the cable ends and battery terminals.

Click to expand...

Found out my negative battery wire wasn't connected to the clamp very well. luckily I always carry spares so I swapped that. Yes it is clean.

Just worked twelve hours so haven't had the chance to dig around, I'll go out right now and see if it has anything... doubt it.

I suspect highly that it was rain damage, so while that doesn't rule out the ignition switch, I must check more vulnerable things first. I'll jumper the starter circuit (with a screw driver) and see if I get any spark or anything, if not I will highly suspect the solenoid.

any other suggestions?
3 thing to check for now;
c101
starter
ignition switch

more?

No replies...

I checked C101, the ignition switch, and the starter. All are fine.

I'm getting enough power in "acc" to light my tester (two LED's attatched to two wires), but as soon as I touch anything that would require any kind of load; bang, no LED's. If I put it in "Run," no power whatsoever to the tester.

This doesn't make me question the ignition switch as much as ground straps.

I have a feeling that both my ground and power wires are too small, I'll go buy some heavy guage grounds (or just plain battery cables) and attach them. Even if that doesn't work, at least it's cheap insurance!

Are your ground and power wires smaller than stock? Charge the battery up some more.

winterbeater said:

Are your ground and power wires smaller than stock? Charge the battery up some more.

Click to expand...

Grounds no, power probably, but that wont matter soon.

I went out and bought marine style brass battery terminals, a 4ga "side post" power cable for system power, and a 2ga "starter cable" to use as my ground. Some "Side post" crimp-on connectors will replace my current ends (already have 2ga hot/negative wires), I'd like to find some huge heat shrink for them, but that'll come later.

less than 30 bucks for some bombproof insurance. ~40 if I decided to replace ALL of my (brand new) current cables.

I'll see how it goes in the morning, if no different, oh well, I'll continue searching.

Excuse me, but are you using a battery with top and side terminals?

If yes, just how much of a load are you putting on the side terminals? Side terminals won't support as high of a load as the top posts.

joe_peters said:

Excuse me, but are you using a battery with top and side terminals?

If yes, just how much of a load are you putting on the side terminals? Side terminals won't support as high of a load as the top posts.

Click to expand...

No, I was just using those wires because of the type of ends they have on them.

I'm using a stock-style top post battery.

I went out and did it all... nothing. Sucks, but I didn't have high hopes in it anyways.

I'll start replacing fuses tomorrow, then move to the "big" pieces; ignition switch and starter.

I need to find a pep boys around here, I have a lifetime warranty on my battery.

If none of that works, then I'm probably screwed...

I'd suggest getting a multimeter. Test lights are great for trailer wiring or diagnosing a voltage no voltage deal. You have a load or amperage problem. Once you load the wire or short it's cutting out. At least you can tell what voltage you are at. Not only that you should be able to get a resistance reading out of your ign. switch. I had a dead cell in a battery that caused what you are describing. A load test on your battery could save you a ton of headache. Good Luck

Yes, DMM and test the resistance of all your cables and grounds.

Ok so let me get this straight.

You have a 86 XJ, but there is a wiring donfig from a 94 YJ. Both are 2.5's

Correct?

Wow what a Bast*rd.

Sorry.


Ok according to the prints for a 94 YJ, from the PDC Position F4 is your power wire to the ign. switch (A1 12RD)

With the ign switch in the RUN pos. you should have voltage on A22 14BK/OR, A31 14BK/WT, A21 14DB.

Like I mention in my last post you can pass voltage through these contacts but not a whole lot of amps if they are carboned up really good.

You may want to "jumper" out the switch. Take the connector off of the ign switch and "jump" from A1 12RD to A22 14 BK/OR to see if your rear wiper works along with your heater/ac fan. If so your ign switch has failed.

Try this with the rest of the wires mentioned.

Good luck , were all counting on you.