• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Engine guys advice needed.... Intake swap, gunk what to do...

muduck18

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Geigertown, PA
I am mounting up a 99+ intake on my 96...

I noticed a large build up in the old intake and in the intake ports on the head.

I don't want to take the head off the block and clean it, but I want to clean that junk out.
What do you think?
I thought about using a shop vac to suck while I hit it with a wire brush, or spray carb/ choke cleaner on it. But I don't think I want any of the debris to fall down into the cylinder.

What do you think?
I hope to get into building engines soon, I want to start with getting a second 4.0 to build for a stroker, but i don't want to take the head off this one yet.

I can post pics of the gunk tonight.
 
I don't know if vacuums and flammable liquids mix. You probably can't get enough off to really make a difference. I would leave it for now and clean it when you build an engine. Some would say to use something like seafoam but again you would be running gunk through the engine.
 
Seafoam, I have heard of that... Maybe I will just try to get the biggest chunks of the build up out, and then put it back together and run an engine cleaner through the fuel.
 
The most carbon should be in the exhaust ports. You could just clean those, and when you start it up, any loose debris would get blown away from the valves. (Intake would get sucked in - don't mess with those.)
 
Ok, Thanks guys. I will just have to grit my teeth and not touch the buildup. I really would like to see it clean in there.
but there is only so much I can do with the head still on I guess. what you guys said, is kinda what I thought, But I was hoping some one would say... "just use a .... and it will be fine"
:(
 
You're not really gonna be able to get it very clean with the head on. Once you get it put back together, run a few ounces of marvel mystery oil in the gas and also in the oil and it will clean your engine up nice over time.
 
You're not really gonna be able to get it very clean with the head on. Once you get it put back together, run a few ounces of marvel mystery oil in the gas and also in the oil and it will clean your engine up nice over time.

Mystery Oil?
I don't like mysteries what does it do?
 
When I Swapped Out my Intake, I used Vinyl Gloves and Wrapped a Rag around my Finger a Couple of Times and Dipped it in Engine Cleaner and Carefully Wiped in a Outwards Motion (so not to Push anything in) all the Gunk I could get out. I made sure not to Touch anything Inside the Ports unless I was doing an Outward Motion with my Wrapped Finger. I Cleaned Out as much as I could Reach from all my Ports doing this. I got mine Cleaned Out Pretty Good that Way.
Hope this Helps.
 
Last edited:
id spray all of the gunks with sea-foam deep creeper (aersol spray can) often to soak them up/loosen them up.

id even want to cut down the wait time by use shop vac and use some adaptor to downsize the sucking hole to fit in there and use it to scrap it and shopvac can suck whatsoever came loose.

after the job, id seafoam it through the throttle body pretty good (probably 2 full cans and a can of seafaom and mystery marvel in the gas tank WITH low level so make it more thick which i will do to make her very clean lol)
 
Mystery Oil?
I don't like mysteries what does it do?
Marvel Mystery Oil is an old school product. It comes in a red can. It is a petroleum product that cleans and lubricates angine parts. It has been used in cars and especially tractor trucks for decades. It will clean the engine out and keep it clean with regular use.
 
Marvel Mystery Oil is an old school product. It comes in a red can. It is a petroleum product that cleans and lubricates angine parts. It has been used in cars and especially tractor trucks for decades. It will clean the engine out and keep it clean with regular use.

X2 We used to use it all the Time on Older Engines (60,000+ miles, Engines didn't Last as Long as Today) back in the '70s. That and STP Oil Treatment. However, Rebuilding an Engine after using the STP stuff was always a Chore. Sometimes we added Kerosene to the Oil and Turned the Engine Over without the Coil Wire Connected to Clean them Up before Tearing them Apart. Real Old School.
 
Marvel Mystery Oil is an old school product. It comes in a red can. It is a petroleum product that cleans and lubricates angine parts. It has been used in cars and especially tractor trucks for decades. It will clean the engine out and keep it clean with regular use.

Cool, I will look for it.
I went to their website before I posed that and it looked kinda shifty, the pictures don't go any where and I think there was a whole section of the site missing.
 
Cool, I will look for it.
I went to their website before I posed that and it looked kinda shifty, the pictures don't go any where and I think there was a whole section of the site missing.

MMO sounds shifty, but it's not - I've been using it in everything from lawnmowers up for the last 30 years!

As far as cleaning the ports out, you want to do a few things:

1) Remove the rocker arm pivot screws before you start - this makes sure the valves are closed. You don't want crud falling into the cylinder.

2) Try to get the opening on the end of the shop-vac hose down as close to a half-inch or so as you can, and make it fairly long (6") and flexible if possible. An adapter can usually be made from hardware store plumbing department parts - this will let you get in there and suck everything out.

3) Use a dry brush (hand or power) to clean, since that will help keep it from getting stuck in the port.

When you're all done, turn the engine until both cylinders are on the base circle of the cam (lifters down, valves should be fully closed,) then torque the pivot screws to 19-21 pound-feet. No other adjustment needed.
 
search for a post for 5-90 talking about dropping the cat, running the engine and praying a FINE mist of water into the intake (as close to the TB as possible I think) and doing that until all the black smoke goes away....read what he wrote I dont want to mislead.

Try searching for spray bottle, carbon, water etc.

Edit: well 5-90 had his input to this seconds before me...maybe that isnt the appropriate fix for "gunk". my bad.
 
Last edited:
Pull the spark plug for one cylinder.

Bring that cylinder up to TDC on exhaust stroke.

Screw in air hold adapter.

Attach air hose.

Clean out the crap while the air pushes the crud out into your face.
 
Back
Top