4.0L motor?

Anyone bought a 4.0L with 0 miles on it? or a good re-built?

Mine ticks... a little more than I'd like... after running on its side for... a few minutes longer than I should have... :dunno:

I'd like a good long block, and I think a new motor with 0 miles on it would be an asweome upgrade...

Where would you look for one around here?

I dont know, but im certainly curious aswell.

group buy on new engines? :dunno:
:thumbup:

~Scott

I guess my question would be why start with a "new" block.

Here is what I would do, personally.
1. Aquire a "used" low mileage engine in running order and swap with yours (you should be able to find good, low mile motors in proven running order for less than $500), easy solution to last a long time and you have a full running engine for spares.
2. Aquire a "used" long block or short block to re-build (bore, stroke, what ever you want to do to it) and build with all of the components that you want on it. Then swap with current running motor. Would cost more than above but is basically a "new" motor with or without stroker depending on build.

Michael

2xtreme said:

I guess my question would be why start with a "new" block.

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Why does anyone buy "new" anything?

ECKSJAY said:

Why does anyone buy "new" anything?

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Good question.

Michael

It could really go either way. Hard parts are hard parts and will generally outlast several generations. Why buy a new vehicle when you can get an old one and replace wear components? People scoff at rebuilding an old car, but you can get it to new condition for several thousand less than a brand new one.

To each his own, I say.

I got a brand new motor sitting back home in WI. The guy I got it from got it from the engine plant in Kenosha. I got it for a whopping $500. I think the only place to get an actual new engine is Mopar but plan on spending a little more than $500.

There is ATK,I cant remember if they use new castings though.

ECKSJAY said:

It could really go either way. Hard parts are hard parts and will generally outlast several generations. Why buy a new vehicle when you can get an old one and replace wear components? People scoff at rebuilding an old car, but you can get it to new condition for several thousand less than a brand new one.

To each his own, I say.

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So true.

2xtreme said:

1. Aquire a "used" low mileage engine in running order and swap with yours (you should be able to find good, low mile motors in proven running order for less than $500), easy solution to last a long time and you have a full running engine for spares.

Michael

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This is the route I'll be going with mine. I have 249K on mine, and it's still going strong. However, when the day comes when I decide to drop a fresh motor in I'll be looking for a 4.0L donor with low miles. I figure it shouldn't be too hard to track down a good running motor down out of an XJ or ZJ.

Are you suggesting that there's a 4.0 out there that DOESN'T tick? Blashpemy.

Seriously though, I'd take another block, drop a YJ crank and rods in it, and rebuild it myself. Insta-stroker.

Build a stroker it doesn't cost as much as buying a new engine and it get WAY more power... It's fairly entertaining too.

I think that most people think their stroker is making tons of power because they swaped from a stock motor with 200,000 miles that was on its way out - and having a 'fresh' motor with tight clearances and even compression made more difference than the extra stroke...

I dont know a damn thing about engines, and I dont want to...

I do know that my engine doesnt make ANY power at elevation (last time I had it out, it was at 7500 feet) and ticks A LOT more than it used to.

I dont want to re-build this one, I just want a good long block, bolt it in in an afternoon, and go wheeling the next weekend. Done.

I'm not lookin for a 100% new never been ran before block - just one that has been gone though by someone, and has 0 miles on it since the re-build... I mean full re-build - new bearings, new rings, new lifters, new freeze plugs, new valve seats, etc...

XJ_ranger said:

I think that most people think their stroker is making tons of power because they swaped from a stock motor with 200,000 miles that was on its way out - and having a 'fresh' motor with tight clearances and even compression made more difference than the extra stroke...

I dont know a damn thing about engines, and I dont want to...

I do know that my engine doesnt make ANY power at elevation (last time I had it out, it was at 7500 feet) and ticks A LOT more than it used to.

I dont want to re-build this one, I just want a good long block, bolt it in in an afternoon, and go wheeling the next weekend. Done.

I'm not lookin for a 100% new never been ran before block - just one that has been gone though by someone, and has 0 miles on it since the re-build... I mean full re-build - new bearings, new rings, new lifters, new freeze plugs, new valve seats, etc...

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Honestly, if you've got a cheap engine stand, a tired block, a fresh set of rings and bearings, some plastigauge, and a torque wrench...a simple bottom end rebuild aint too hard to do yourself.

Then send the head off to be decked and inspected, and you're good to go.

I used to rebuild wore out honda blocks all the time...inline engines are simple...

WheelinJR said:

I used to rebuild wore out honda blocks all the time...inline engines are simple...

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let me guess.. B series fan right?

i was always an H & F series fan myself :thumbup:

nw-xj-scott said:

let me guess.. B series fan right?

i was always an H & F series fan myself :thumbup:

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I've had a variety of builds...several D's, several B's...most with large snail shaped devices strapped onto them. I could go into more detail, but let's stay on topic.

WheelinJR said:

I've had a variety of builds...several D's, several B's...most with large snail shaped devices strapped onto them. I could go into more detail, but let's stay on topic.

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I already have a 5.9L inline 6 with one of those.

:gag:

Does it say "clack clack clack" ?

This thread just got more bad-ass.

XJ_ranger said:

I think that most people think their stroker is making tons of power because they swaped from a stock motor with 200,000 miles that was on its way out - and having a 'fresh' motor with tight clearances and even compression made more difference than the extra stroke...

I dont know a damn thing about engines, and I dont want to...

I do know that my engine doesnt make ANY power at elevation (last time I had it out, it was at 7500 feet) and ticks A LOT more than it used to.

I dont want to re-build this one, I just want a good long block, bolt it in in an afternoon, and go wheeling the next weekend. Done.

I'm not lookin for a 100% new never been ran before block - just one that has been gone though by someone, and has 0 miles on it since the re-build... I mean full re-build - new bearings, new rings, new lifters, new freeze plugs, new valve seats, etc...

Click to expand...

Opie,
It sounds to me like you know exactly what you are looking for, and I understand why you don't want to rebuild one yourself.

There are numerous rebuilders around unfortunatly I can't really recommend any good ones, most of the ones I have heard about on this forum have not come highly recommended

Personally I would talk with John and or any other reputable shops you know and ask them who they would recommend, these guys usually know some of the better places to talk with about what you want.

FWIW, it would cost about $500 to bolt in a low mileage stock 4.0, it will likely cost you 4X that for a rebuilt "0" mileage unit and in my limited experience I think I would prefer to have the stock low mileage unit (forgetting about price all together). On the other hand IF I was prepared to pay for a rebuilt unit, I would pay the extra for the stroker build if it was an option. I think there is a lot of merit to your point about going from an old warn out unit to a new one, but I also believe from a stricktly mechanical point of view a stroker build is a better bang for the buck. I do understand that there are lots of people who don't like the idea of having "not stock" components in there engine and that this is not an option. It is only my opinion.

Michael