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Brake maintenaince

David95XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Any how know what size the hard brake lines are going to the front brakes?

Also any recommendations on one man brake bleeder contraptions?
 
Any how know what size the hard brake lines are going to the front brakes?

Also any recommendations on one man brake bleeder contraptions?

The only 1 man brake bleeders that are worth a darn are the ones that the bigger shops use, they are the ones that force the fluid from the master cyl. resevoir through the master, then through the lines, calipers, wheel cyl. etc. I haven't tried this homebrew method: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/affordable_pressure_bleeding_kit/index.html but I'm sure it would work ok. The next best are the ones that suck from the bleeder nipples. The problem with these is that they can suck air from around the bleeder nipples and they don't always get all the air out because they are not forcefull enough. In the past I have used a fluid extractor pump like this one: http://www.tempoproducts.com/2004/pump.html with a piece of rubber hose attached. It works ok but not as well as the two man method.
 
Save your money for beer.

Bleeding brakes: The best way is the GRAVITY method. The only problem is it takes a lot of beer and you don't want to drive right after. (CAUTION: YOU MUST BE 21 TO BLEED YOUR BRAKES THIS WAY!) I use it whenever I replace brake cylinders or calipers, but mostly it's just to change the brake fluid, which I do whenever I change shoes or pads. Ideally you change brake fluid at least every other year. If you worked on old cars and saw rusty pistons, you'd know why, but people also say that old brake fluid boils and won't stop you right.

1.) Get the car in a position where you can open up the bleeders. I always like to break them loose with a 6 point socket being careful not to break them off. If you can, spray them with breakaway or similar a day before.)
2) Starting with the bleeder futhest away from the master (pass. rear), open it about 1 turn. You can put a little hose and cup on it if you want to keep the old fluid from running all over. Make SURE to keep the master cylinder topped off with fluid and DON'T let it get down to where air gets back into the master cyl. Let it flow this way until the fluid comes out of the bleeder clean. This will take at least 2 cups or so of brake fluid. Using gravity alone, you can drink 2 beers while topping off the master cylinder for the first corner. (CAUTION: Do not store brake fluid in beer cans or put beer into master cyinder. Drinking a little brake fluid however will probably not kill you. Beer in your brake lines might.) Snug up bleeder good when you're done.
3.) Proceed to drivers rear and repeat. It won't take as long because the long brake line has already been purged of the old fluid. So you have to drink your beer faster.
4.) Pass front. Drink even faster.
5.) Drivers front. Etc.

Patience can be substituted for beers, but that's no fun.

This prevents the rubber pieces from going any further than they are used to and self destructing.
"
 
Save your money for beer.

Bleeding brakes: The best way is the GRAVITY method. The only problem is it takes a lot of beer and you don't want to drive right after. (CAUTION: YOU MUST BE 21 TO BLEED YOUR BRAKES THIS WAY!) I use it whenever I replace brake cylinders or calipers, but mostly it's just to change the brake fluid, which I do whenever I change shoes or pads. Ideally you change brake fluid at least every other year. If you worked on old cars and saw rusty pistons, you'd know why, but people also say that old brake fluid boils and won't stop you right.

1.) Get the car in a position where you can open up the bleeders. I always like to break them loose with a 6 point socket being careful not to break them off. If you can, spray them with breakaway or similar a day before.)
2) Starting with the bleeder futhest away from the master (pass. rear), open it about 1 turn. You can put a little hose and cup on it if you want to keep the old fluid from running all over. Make SURE to keep the master cylinder topped off with fluid and DON'T let it get down to where air gets back into the master cyl. Let it flow this way until the fluid comes out of the bleeder clean. This will take at least 2 cups or so of brake fluid. Using gravity alone, you can drink 2 beers while topping off the master cylinder for the first corner. (CAUTION: Do not store brake fluid in beer cans or put beer into master cyinder. Drinking a little brake fluid however will probably not kill you. Beer in your brake lines might.) Snug up bleeder good when you're done.
3.) Proceed to drivers rear and repeat. It won't take as long because the long brake line has already been purged of the old fluid. So you have to drink your beer faster.
4.) Pass front. Drink even faster.
5.) Drivers front. Etc.

Patience can be substituted for beers, but that's no fun.

This prevents the rubber pieces from going any further than they are used to and self destructing.
"

I am going to have to disagree with you on this one. I usually bleed that way first when replacing components such as hoses and then follow up with another bleeding procedure. I have found that gravity bleeding alone is just not as effective at getting rid of the air in the calipers or wheel cylinders.
 
To each his own, I guess. During the original filling in the factory, the only difference is that they pressurize the master cyl reservoir to speed up the process. Nobody pumps the brakes.
 
To each his own, I guess. During the original filling in the factory, the only difference is that they pressurize the master cyl reservoir to speed up the process. Nobody pumps the brakes.
Like I said in my first post:

The only 1 man brake bleeders that are worth a darn are the ones that the bigger shops use, they are the ones that force the fluid from the master cyl. resevoir through the master, then through the lines, calipers, wheel cyl. etc. I haven't tried this homebrew method: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...kit/index.html but I'm sure it would work ok.

This is not for speed but for efficiency. To get the air out you literally have to force it out. I will agree with you that the drinking beer method is more fun though :cheers:
 
The next best are the ones that suck from the bleeder nipples. The problem with these is that they can suck air from around the bleeder nipples and they don't always get all the air out because they are not forcefull enough.

I usually remove the bleeder, clean it up, slather the threads with antiseize and reinstall. The antiseize does a nice job of preventing air from sucking past the threads. Then attach one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37201, crack the bleeder just a hair, and slowly pump the pedal. The bleeder bottle has the tube at the bottle so it can't suck air back up.
 
I use something very similar to catch the fluid coming from the gravity bleed. It also makes it easier to see when you are getting new clear fluid out.

Another point is to always put the rubber cap back on the bleeder. Whenever you have to bleed a vehicle where those are missing, the bleeders are usually frozen up good.
 
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