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Marvel Mystery Oil

Stroketech

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mankato MN
Hi everyone, I did some reading on here about engine ticks in the 4.0. I saw a lot of people mention running Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine. I read on the bottle that you should replace 1 qt of engine oil with 1 qt of Marvel. But for how long? 1 oil change, a couple hundred miles? I'm wanting to do it but want to make sure I do it right. Any info would be great!
 
I add a qt to every oil change on all my vehicles.

No engine ticks here

Nick
 
Can you get Lyme disease from engine ticks? :party:
 
Dad has been using in his lawn equipment lately, normally it would take 1.5 tanks to mow the front and back yard, but after adding a little MMO both front and back can be mowed on less than one tank of gas:thumbup:


Can you get Lyme disease from engine ticks? :party:

Only if you drive to a beach to get your Seafoam;)
 
Normally I would poo-poo any tool box in a can fix, but many years ago, I put a can of liquid wrench into a Ford 429 that the dealership said needed a rebuild. VERY bad case of valve clatter, but ran great. Within a half hour the lifters quieted down like magic. Six months later they clattered for about 5 seconds and fixed itself again. Drove it for 8 more years and sold it with 150K miles on it still running perfect.
 
I too run MMO in every oil change. Have 180K on my '88 XJ and 165K on my 86 Nissan D21 pickup. Both run like champs.
 
wtf are you guys talking about " ticks" do you mean almost like the sound of lifter rattle?

mine has always had a slight tick tick tick that increased with rpm's, but after i switched to royal purple 10/40 to increase my oil pressure i only hear the tick tick tick when going thru neighborhoods where i can hear echo's. and seems like if i floor it, the ticks go away while being floored =) and i dont think MMO and full synthetic go hand in hand
 
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Can you get Lyme disease from engine ticks? :party:

I doubt it, but I have always wondered if the ticks were signs of ticking time bomb?

:explosion
 
I sub a quart of MMO at every oil change and use Mobil 1 full synthetic on my '99 XJ, 4.0. 142K miles... It has been a great combination. No leaks, great oil pressure and best of all, no noises. I also add 6 oz. of MMO to every fuel fill up and have been always been happy with the way she runs. :spin1:
 
If you are running good and quiet, you don't need magic additives. I wonder if MMO can substitute for ZDDP.

Welcome to NAXJA. Happy New Year.

party1:


Happy New Year to you as well and thanks for the welcome! I completely agree that if you are running good an quiet that you don't need magic additives. For me, MMO has always been used to keep things going smoothly. I have a 200K BTU wood furnace in my basement and apply a couple of drops of MMO to the fan motor shafts at the beginning of the cold season. It keeps the friction down for the entire season, but I wouldn't expect the MMO to repair a shot bearing or bent shaft! LOL :D
 
Greatest stuff since sliced bread. Been using MMO for more then 30 years. When i get a motor thats been neglected and sludged up or with a tick I run it with every oil change. Cleans em out and quiets them down. Works great in air tools to.
 
Greatest stuff since sliced bread. Been using MMO for more then 30 years. When i get a motor thats been neglected and sludged up or with a tick I run it with every oil change. Cleans em out and quiets them down. Works great in air tools to.

Air tools... great tip Mike! ;)
 
Greatest stuff since sliced bread. Been using MMO for more then 30 years. When i get a motor thats been neglected and sludged up or with a tick I run it with every oil change. Cleans em out and quiets them down. Works great in air tools to.


It does work great for that, but I wouldn't recommend using it routinely unless you have a problem and adding a strong detergent and solvent is needed.

MMO is basically a thin mineral oil, naptha, and mineral spirits.

I like this quote from Blackstone Labs:
Detergents and Solvents
Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like "quieter lifters," "reduced oil burning" and a "cleaner engine." Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they can be flushed or burned out. Wynn's Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is 83 percent kerosene. Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard mineral oil.

In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving behind a "coating" or a "plating" on your engine surfaces, they are designed to strip away such things.

All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one . The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal contact within your engine.

As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past few decades.
 
Totally different use but we had a 92 Saturn that my wife bought new before we meet. At about 120,000 or so it started burning oil pretty regularly. I had to add a 2-3 quarts between regular 3,000 mile oil changes. According to the various Saturn forums they are known for this because the piston rings gum up and stick (probably slightly too tight of a tolerance from the factory, or so the theory goes). The forums recommended pulling the spark plugs and pouring a couple of tea spoons of MMO into each cylinder and let it sit overnight. The next day turn it over a few times without the plugs to spit any MMO out. Put the plugs back in, fire it up and then change the oil. I did this a few times at oil changes and it appeared to free up the rings some (if the theory is correct) because oil consumption went noticeably down to the point that I didn't need to add oil between changes. Eventually it would start burning oil again and I'd repeat the process and it would be good for another 50,000 miles or so.

We eventually sold it with over 250,000 miles on it and bought a new 08 Kia. Big mistake, should have kept the old Saturn. It was more reliable.
 
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