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99 xj dies and runs terrible

bmfm64

bmfm64

NAXJA Forum User
Location
covington wa
pretty much what the title says... runs fine one minute, next minute rough and wants to die unless you're on the gas. sometimes check engine light is on and sometimes it's not... same with airbag light, sometimes it's on and sometime's it's not... scanned the codes and found it to say a tps code and a transmission solonoid code. i've done some searches and not really found much other than change the tps and see what happens... i've also found something about the clock spring? i'm mechanical but not so hot at computer issues? where do i start? forgive me if i missed something in the searches and maybe a link? thanks in advance.
 
Replace the TPS and see what happens. I'd ignore the transmission solenoid code until you fix the motor. Let us know if it helps.
 
Or you could test the TPS, simple multimeter, couple of paper clips for back-probing the connector, 15 minutes out of your day.

You own an XJ, and therefore you should own a multimeter.

Remember, codes only tell you that the computer isn't getting the info it expects, it isn't really telling you if a component is bad.
 
i have both... meter and paper clips. how do i go about checking the tps? like i said, mechanical not computer sorry i might be a little slow at this.
 
I have a 99 and had what sounds like the same problem. It ended up being a wire in the loom over the F/I rail that the insulation had broken so the wire would short out. It took a while to figure out since it was an intermittent problem. I took it to the auto electric shop twice and no problem, on the third trip it acted up and they repaired it. No problem since. Hope this helps.
 
bmfm64 said:
i have both... meter and paper clips. how do i go about checking the tps? like i said, mechanical not computer sorry i might be a little slow at this.
Click to expand...

You should have 5 volts going in to the TPS. Output should be .26 at idle and 4.49 at WOT (wide open throttle). The best is to use an analog meter (needle not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smoothe with no dead spots. So with your meter, you can set it for volts and put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, not running, you can probe with the red probe of you meter (with paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). I think the other will be the ground so should show no voltage. Then move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.
 
ok so i tested it and found that it had 5.13 volts and .78 at idle and 4.12 at wot. went and got a new one and installed and found at idle it's now 1.04 and at wot its 4.31.... so its still high on the bottom end????? what now? thanks for any help!
 
i tried that... looks good. ran the jeep down the road and let it idle for 20 minutes or so at destination and seems to be ok but check engine light is still on along with airbag light. no reader at home today but will bring it home tomorrow to see what the codes are.
 
I hate to take you back to basics, but what about spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor? When were they last replaced? The cheapest, easiest, quickest way to understand your engine is to inspect the spark plugs. Gap should be 0.035", defiantly not more than 0.045" and they should be light tan at the darkest. All 6 should look the same.
 
i figured it would always run crappy if this was the case but i'll check them this afternoon when i get home, i've only had this jeep a couple months and didnt want to get crazy throwing parts at it thats why i was looking for a step by step diagnotic route... thanks for the help!
 
cap rotor plugs wires all look good... scanned computer and it had 3 different tps codes and the same transmission code.... cleared it and letting it warm up and run through a cycle now...
 
i replaced the tps and ive driven it a couple times and scanned it after each trip and now its only coming up with the tranny code but it seems to be driving good now so i think the mototr is all good just wondering what the solonoid code would mean, as in what should i look for as a symptom from this code and what can i do to repair it? thanks!
 
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