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I highly recommend the front first. In my experience the front wheels will pull you over an obstacle better then the rear will push. I have run an Aussie in the front for quite some time and have been very happy with it.
well its going to work great in the front or the rear!,
in my opinion i would do the rear first. Thats what i did, had it like that for about 2 years before locking the front, with the front locked it pushes you forward and dosnt like to steer very well, and its kinda hard to use 4wd in the snow,
I had the front first, it was cool, and helped a lot but in the snow it is not very good. The rear is great pushes you up the obstacle. I vote rear pending your rear axle. If you have D35 do the front if you have a 29 spline 8.25/d44 go for the rear.
Here is my advice, front, some listed above I agree with, but here is my stab at it
What rear end do you have?...if its a dana 35, dont bother with the rear as you may end up swapping it...same for the 8.25 (if you have 27 splines [older] you may want to upgrade to the 29 spline shafts [newer]) either way you locker would become useless.
This is why I suggest the front, all years XJ use the same spline shaft no matter if it high or low,
If you have a dana 44 rear end or a 8.25 with the 29 splines then my reasoning is void
I just bought an Aussie for my 8.25 in the rear. Here was my reasoning:
- 8.25 is much stronger than the D30
- 1-pc Rear Axles are more forgiving than the U-Joints in the Front Axle
- I'd go with a Detroit True-Trac if I was putting a locker in the front
- We get some nasty black-ice in ND
I'm going to Ouray in a week, will let you know how it does...
Flip a coin... Heads put it in the front. Tails in the rear, unless you have a dana 35. It's apparent by the previous posts that its a toss up either way. No matter what one you do, you'll be happy you did it.
just put it on the work bench till you can get one for each end (oh ya and buy them for 2 and a half ton rock wells cuse 30 35 44 8.25 8.8 10,12,14 bolt 60 70 80 arn't very strong.) I have one in each end in a 30 and a 35 does great in the snow and I havent broken any thing and it has not folded like a toco
just put it on the work bench till you can get one for each end (oh ya and buy them for 2 and a half ton rock wells cuse 30 35 44 8.25 8.8 10,12,14 bolt 60 70 80 arn't very strong.) I have one in each end in a 30 and a 35 does great in the snow and I havent broken any thing and it has not folded like a toco
Rear first under almost all driving conditions.
-You keep your manoverability
-When climbing anything a hill, a 6 inch tall rock, what ever more weight gets shifted to the rear.
-Rear pushed you over obsticles
-Going over obsticles your front end becomes lighter
As stated unless you have a d35, then you should be looking at an axle swap and not a locker.
Depends on where you go really. If you wanted to climb up nearly vertical rock surfaces then do the front. You just need to think about if it would be easier to do your trails with pulling or pushing.
I just bought an Aussie for my 8.25 in the rear. Here was my reasoning:
- 8.25 is much stronger than the D30
- 1-pc Rear Axles are more forgiving than the U-Joints in the Front Axle
- I'd go with a Detroit True-Trac if I was putting a locker in the front
- We get some nasty black-ice in ND
I'm going to Ouray in a week, will let you know how it does...
Then why would you want to lock the rear, the front is invisible in two wheel drive, I live in ND too, and put a true trac in the rear, and a locker in the front, just fine