zj disc brakes to an xj 44 swap halfway done and have questions

alright ive been searching and am a little confused about what i need to finish, mostly the teraflex spacer that everyone talks about. i didnt use one. is it totally neccesary?
ive already drilled the new mounting holes on the zj backing plate.
i drilled out the main hole to fit the bearing and seal as well.
everything is bolted up.
havent routed new brakelines yet.
ive heard there is a spacer from teraflex to use, is this truly necesary?

yes, that spacer is necesary, unless you use the rubicon retainer plates

Yes the spacer is needed. Myself I used the Rubicon axle plate. The plate and the seal set the bearing pre load. If it's not correct the bearing will eat itself. Here is the part # I used at the Dealership 5083678AA I think they were 6 buck a piece.

Now for the part that is going to suck. That plate goes on first before the seal, bearings and bearing retainer are pressed onto the axle.

thanks for the info guys. im gonna see if i can get the plates today from the dealer out here in sac and try to get this going. that does kinda suck, i wish i would have read up more about the swap before actually doing it

Regardless whether you use the TJ plates or the spacers, those parts still need to go on before the bearings. So either way you'll need to press the bearing and retainer on last.

I used the spacers...but only because I got them from someone that already had a set cut and ready to go. Otherwise I would have used the plates with the built in spacer.

J.

progress
i was able to get one plate today from a dealer, all they had, and one from west coast differentials. i also had west coast press on new bearings for me(10$ per side) and drill out the plates for xj flange pattern for an extra 10$(otherwise id have to drive home and do it and then drive it all the way back after already waiting...)
anyway with new bearings the rear end feels so much tighter. i rented a slide hammer w/ jaw puller and a bearing race install tool from autozone to make the bearing races come out and go in easy.
i mounted up everything and bolted on the shafts with the new rubicon retainters and boy what a difference.
before the shafts where sliding back and forth and now they are solid. you really need those retainers with the 44...
as well as the new bearings making everything spin so much better and tighter...
i had to drill out the bracket for a long time, but i got the hole for the axle shaft perfect for the bearing and seal to fit in and look good for a hand drill.
i test drove it.
brakes are a little softer, but also much better. bled the hell outta them.
seems to brake just so much damn better .
but it also seemed to be a little squirley. i might have a bad caliper. they are junkyard calipers, but they did bleed just fine.
cost:
brackets with calipers and old brake lines and brake shoes-60$
new pads and rotors-70$
rubicon retainer plates-18$
new bearings and seals and the rubcicon plates pressed on-120$
two new caliper bolts with metal sleeves-5$
realized my spare shafts had longer studs than my stockers-free
crush washer for soft line-0.79$
brake fluid, cleaner, more nitrile gloves, towels, and 8 grinding disks for drill-50
total
323$
but i think a caliper might be bad cuz its a little funky, but it could be that my drums where rubbing

ugh, i wouldn't run junkyard calipers....
the only reason to pull them is to use them as cores for new ones.
new ones with a core are only like, $20, and come with all new slide pins which you already spent money on, and you don't have to worry about frozen bleed nipples or anything.

nice job on the swap though, i am in the middle of finishing up mine

Hi Jon, Here is a good one for you.




http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-1.htm

How is your brake bias? ZJ portioning valve? Or at least the spring?