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rear shock length problem

dellstopjeep

dellstopjeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
KUNA, ID
well I installed my 5125 bilstein rears today in the 12 inch travel flavor and this is what turned out. The rear shock mount sits two inches closer to the top mount on the passenger side from the driver side.
P1010359.jpg


P1010360.jpg


first one is passenger side second one is driver side. I need the 12 inch travel shocks as I measure everything before hand with my old shocks. I think the driver side is okay but is the passenger side to big ya think? Also I was thinking of adding u bolt eliminators as my rear sags a inch or two..... Would a inch more make that shock work?
 
Mainly, it's because the diff is tilted. Shims, shackles will change the shock length.

By the pic, I'm assuming it's sitting on the tires and not hanging?
 
that's the way mine were. It's because of the rotatoin of the rear axle after lift. I used PDG bump stop plates, and used an extra plate on the short side. Worked well. Never had an issue flexing.:wave:
 
i have boomerang shackles and 3 degree shims for proper pinion angle. Looks like I will be runnin crap shocks in the rear for a while until I solve this issue.
 
but with the little travel on the shock is it okay for at least street travel??? Dont want to be bottoming out the shock on a speed bump or anything. I will Even with more bump stoping im still screwed for uptravel.... looks like Im getting the 10 inch travel ones...
 
dellstopjeep said:
i have boomerang shackles and 3 degree shims for proper pinion angle. Looks like I will be runnin crap shocks in the rear for a while until I solve this issue.
Click to expand...

The shackles and shims do it. You can get a shock stud and move one or the other to equalize the distance. Or space the top of the shock.
 
I am using rear bpe.......have one on one side and remove the other on the other side. THat would be a interesting combo.... what about using a shock bar going across to add length to these shocks?
 
A shock bar would be nice, and add some length to the shocks and they wouldn't work as hard on a bigger angle, but the DR shock will still be a bit longer than the pass. By the looks of things, as it sits you would need a bit shorter shock to get the down travel someplace in the middle of the stroke. A JKS shock bar would help and you wouldn't need to get different shocks.
 
mine are the same way, but like others said, its because the diff is tilted up, making the passenger side mount closer to the floor, and the drivers side farther. i just use DPG adjustable bumpstop plates and have one more on the passenger side than the drivers side. took me forever to realize that too.
 
Well, I probably should have went with the 10 inch travel ones all the way around as I have 5 inches of travel on the front two and and then 5 on the longer rear side and about 3 1/2 inches on the shorter side. I guess I will either try to trade someone with 10" travel ones or most likely re-bumpstop the whole rig. JUst as a refresher if I limit uptravel to only 5 inches on one side the downtravel wont be affected correct? Essentially I will still continue to flex out minus a tire maxing out on a shock or eating a fender.
 
Should have gone with shorter 12" travel ones. Even the correct side looks short still only 4" of up travel. Youll be ok driving on the street. And even off road if you brake a shock its not chritical to get home, just be a little more bouncy.
 
Fix your shock mounts first!
 
RCP Phx said:
Fix your shock mounts first!
Click to expand...

problem with that is I am then going to high clearance mounts which really makes these shocks useless.

Went to that site and still no other part number for a smaller shock body just for differnt valving.

f it I will just make these ones work and bumpstop the hell out of this thing, probably the cheaper way of doing it anyways
 
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